What was the ohm reading you took? Was it close to the .20 to 1 ohm range? And when you tried the spinning of the CAS in the past did you by chance hear the primary injectors clicking?

 

Might have mixed u up lil bit I haven't ohm coils but cas's between the min amd max spec how do ohm trailing at the positive and neg of both and with them screwed on to wires or detached

 

Just pop off the plastic top which exposes the two terminals and nothing else needs to be done.

 

Leading .001 t1 .001 t2 .001 and someone told me condenser check which was infin so that's good and no tach at all with condenser in or out and with key on Injector click with spare cas spun by hand just no damn spark lol

 

Why no tach only thing I havent double checked is ground under mainifold and guess need to sand paint at strut tower ground also

 

I did ohm both grounds and got .002 which is good right

 

If the grounds at the ECU are good then the ground at the manifold should be good since the ones at the ECU come from the one on top of the manifold.

When you refer to the strut tower ground I assume you are referring to where the coil bracket comes into contact with the fender as that is the only ground for the coils as there are no ground wires involved but I thought you did this already.

The ohming of the coils should be .2 to 1 ohm and yours don't fall within this range, but it seems very close enough to not be an issue I would guess.

And for the gauges to work (not speedometer) the Meter fuse needs to be good.

 

Meter fuse good I see12v on dash and the coolant lite buzzing like a honda door dinger cause i broke a sensor there is a ground on drivers side harness right that bolts to lower end of fender/ strut tower. That has paint maybe not giving good resistance. So my coils should be .2 not .002 that's a problem. ..... lo but when check grounds should be the .002 right

 

Can't I hook my msd coil up to leading wires and get spark

 

The ground wires at the ECU or at a sensor would read very ,very close to 0 w/key to on such that it might read out in millivolts and .002 would definitely qualify as a good ground reading.

 

There are those who have used that type of system but I am not familiar with it. If you use the "advanced search" function you'll be able to find info from those that have used it on their RX7.

 

Tried msd still no spark however the leading is switching and trailing stays at constant 12v on both sides positive and neg terminals on the coils and stiill no tach/ rpm while cranking

 

You only need to have a working leading coil to run the car as the trailing coil is responsible for igniting any fuel left that was not ignited by the leading coil so I would just focus on the leading coil. Have you tried to start the car w/a jumpstart from another car? I say this because "maybe" your battery is too weak to do the job. I know you say it reads good but that is when the battery is just sitting there doing much of nothing and the key is to how it does when it tries to power up everything necessary as the car is started. This "might" be your issue. And since the leading coil fires both plugs at the same time you only need one MSD unit as opposed to two, which is different then the trailing coil.

 

It switches however I dont see spark and I tried with msd too. As far as battery and jump staarting that's what I have been doing. I usually have my other car running and hooked up to the rx. Why is the tach not budging

 

In a stock setup the tach is supposed to work off the trailing coil and not the leading unless the factory coils both had a jumper wire running from the Black diagnostic bullet connectors to each other.

 

Going to buy a battery soon I guess but why doesn't that tavh move while cranking

 

Your tach might be broken, the wiring running into the back of it might be loose, depends on how you have the ignition system wired up, and the new coils if not firing won't drive the tach.

 

All I did was swap leading coil with msd but either way it switchs and trailing doesnt just stays at 12v so stock or msd d only on leading the tach doesn't move. If it is broken what about the trailing not switching .... I cranked it while jumped to my other car.and it never switched. Was always hot ground never switched on either coil. Of trailing side

 

But u guys are saying I can jump bith check connectors on the coils and tach should move or I can get a Hz meter and hook up to battery ground and connector to get rpm ....

 

Check connectors from each of the stock coils, but the leading coil needs to fire for the tach to move.

The tach uses the Yellow/Blue wire at the trailing coil and this is how the tach works in a stock setup.

 

K so I gotta check y/b, I don't think I did since new ecu. Iknow b/y and br/w good and grounds good and ecu input volts good which pin was y/b again ? If u remeber or ill look it up

 

The Yellow/Blue wire (Y/L) comes off of the trailing coil and runs to the tach as there is no ECU involvement.

 

Ok my bad so which wire/ pin switches trailing.g coils

 

Pin X, U ans M. U has 4.4 volts w/key to on, X has 0 volts w/key to on and M has below 2 volts w/key to on.

If you check these pins then for the heck of it check pin 3D (Black/Red) and see if it is below 1.5 volts and pin 1G (Green/Black) and it should read below 1.5 volts.

 

Wow no 12v weird k thanks.and those are the 3 wires on trailing coil I'm gueesin