Ya new ecu works except no spark lmao I got 4.98 as 5vref br/y and both coils briefly hit 5v and go down to zero as engine rotated by hand

 

Only weird thing I noticed is on.coils I got 5v lil before the yellow mark on crank pulley. Other is I set timing marks up right however I think u van still be 180 degrees off correct ?

 

As far as the coil/igniter being grounded, the mounting bracket needs to be mated against the fender in such a manner that the body ground is transferred to the coil. Poor grounding due to fresh paint is a possibility and even if the paint were old.

Check the info in post #2 in the following link.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=cas+teeth

 

According to that timing good. Now Idk if this normal or not but the two wires on leading coil which has a +,- are both 12v with key on. I'm not talking about harness get/yell and blk/yel but after the connector they go into igniter assmebly. And come out to coils +,- which is where i get 12v on both shouldn't one be 0

 

Oh ya for the ground I had it mounted to where it is supposed to be mongrel and also hooked jumper wire to the screws and the body of coil and still didn't get spark .... No the battery is old but has 12.74v

 

Where does it say + and - ? Are you disconnecting the G/Y wire and the B/Y wire and you're measuring the voltage on the two wires that run from the other side of the White connector to the coil? On my 86, these two wires are an orange and a red wire. If the plug w/the G/Y and B/Y were removed then there is no voltage going to the coil. Do you have the Black wire that comes from the coil which is not supposed to be connecting to anything connected to something? The Black wire which eminates from the coil is a diagnostic wire used to connect to a tach for servicing purposes and this wire is not supposed to be grounded for any reason whatsoever.

 

With it plugged in and key on at orange red its 12v. and the check connector not plugged in on either coil

 

If you remove the cap on the coil .... Says l1,l2 there are a pos and neg terminals

 

Is the paint on the fender where the coils are secured to the fender new? You might want to sand down the fender where the brackets come in contact w/the fender sheet metal. I doubt replacing the screws are enough. If you look at where the negative battery cable grounds against the fender you'll see that the bracket mates to the fender itself as opposed to the grounding occuring solely due to the fastening bolt alone.

 

Paint not new or is at least 10+ years old so ill sand it anyways and hop for spark

 

I sanded leading down and no spark. I think I should do smbaker swap ...... If u Google msd rx7 a site im sure u all have heard of comes up called smbakr.com which is a really good write up on swapping from stock ignition to msd 6al

 

So since you traded out ECU's you have the 5 volt to 0 volt change on the G/Y wire at the leading coil when the car is turned over by hand, but the coil still refuses to fire? A few things, have you rechecked the B/Y wire to see if it is still behaving as it should and still has 12 volts w/lkey to on. Secondly, how have you been checking for spark as the best way is to remove the plug wire boot from the coil and leave it within a fraction of an inch of the coil bore and try to start the car to see if there is spark or not. Lastly, have you tested the trailing coil as well to see if the relevant wire that alternates between 5 and 0 volts is doing just that in addition to checking for spark on that coil? And have you ohmed out both coils to see if they are within spec?

 

Only thing u mentioned that I haven't checked is ohm on them as for spark I can pull either coils out and supply 12vand take it away and get spark so coils work however I guess igniters built in to them could be bad ..... Or ohms bad which wires should i ohm on both leading and trailing.

 

I know you've tested the B/Y wire before but have you done it recently since you replaced the ECU's? When you mentioned the + and - marks on the coils you saw them with the plastic top piece removed and when removed it reveals the two terminals of the coil, and w/key to off and it should read between .2 ohms to 1 ohm.

 

Ya I re checked volts and grounds with.new ecu they all checked good 12g and 5v ref. So ur saying leading coil pop the cap off and ohm between +and - terminals and thats what it should read .... and same thing for trailinng. And as for igntior I think it needs special tool to test

 

Correct on the ohm test. Another thing. There is a black computer chip looking doodad that is located near the trailing coil and it is the condenser. There is a similar item bolted to your slave cylinder. Find the one near the trailing coil and see if the chip looking part of the condenser is still there or if the wire itself is grounded to something metal which it should not be.

Condenser pic in post #18.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=condenser

 

Think ill have to take pictures of that lol there is two condenser things one to slave and one to strut tower u said there post to be grounded. Now there is another which is bolted next to trailing coil that lloks similar but its a lil diff and it has a metal piece pligged into it and its grounded to chasis

 

PPretty sure is is supost to be thwr grounded cause it was on same ones at rhe towe yard

 

What I mean is sometimes the black chip looking thingy falls off the wire and people mistakenly will ground the wire itself which is a definite no no. If yours looks okay then perhaps disconnect it briefly and see if it makes any difference in getting spark. Probably won't but it's worth a try.

 

It post to be grounded right the green plug under coil ? Has like 3 wires going to it

 

Oh never mind I see ill try both what about that other one which looks like a ground Mazda made lol green plug with 4 wires or so grounded under coil

 

There's a White plug with a handfull of Black wires that is supposed to be grounded. What I'm talking about looks exactly like the pic provided and nothing else.

 

Ok ill un plug both like in the picture at noon and try

 

You should only have two of these condensers in the engine bay and the one bolted to the slave cylinder is for the oil pressure gauge and is not a potential problem in any way that could relate to the coils not firing. The one that might, and it's a one in a million chance, is the one that relates to the coils. This condenser is connected to the B/Y wire that runs to the coils. And were you able to do the ohm test of the coils yet?

The condenser in the pic has a Black wire which is plugged into a connector which has a B/Y wire.

 

Lol one in a million like our cas .... Well both of mine are good I ohmed and saw signals on dso so ill try the one on b/y in couple hours