Yeah. I saw it getting towed back into the pits. I was gonna break my trumpet out and start wailing taps.. but i don't own a trumpet. Lol

 

Hey man, i'm just new to rx7's and the rotary world. I've built other cars with some of my friends and have some experience. I've had this car so far for about 2 months now and I have an aftermarket intake manifold(greddy i believe I gotta go back to the shop to check to make sure) apexi duel intakes and a fresh brand new motor. I also am in the middle of either buying stock turbos to replace mine that are cracked or i'm going to buy the BNR stage 3's. I'm looking to reach between 350-400+ rwhp. Thanks again for replying.

 

Sorry two more questions, how much do you intend to spend on the car over the next 3 years. And, what are your intentions for the car (street? show? drag? road race? other?)

 

Me neither

Just dropped it off at my friend's shop to have the rear fenders cut up and rewelded...

 

I plan on spending as much money as needed, money is not an issue at all. My intentions for now is just mainly a street/road race car but I also want to showcase it at local shows and what not. Thanks for helping me man I appreciate this.

 

im gonna fix my fiberglass either this weekend or next, depending on how lazy i feel. Destroyed my 99 spec bumper and turn signals, and some minor core support damage on the passenger side. its all fixable, so she will be sliding again, but this time im taking her there on a F'ing trailer so i dont have to drive 1.5 hours after a crash lol.

BTW, if yyou guys have these parts, im in the market. Have black FD interior parts to trade as well:

L/R headlight covers
99 spec bumper/turns
Pass Headlight

Thats all i can think of right now.

 

I was gonna ask this in the spring trip thread. But i guess i can help keep it free of off topic material.

Im doing f-r lca bushings, individual rear camber adjusters, rear subs mounts.. and dtss elims... anybody got words of the wise for this stuff? Like buy patience and pay someone else to do it lol.

I did some on my mk3 golf a while back, im sure its much of the same.. swearing.. throwing stuff.. then magically it pops in.

 

Alright sounds like you are starting pretty stock so I am assuming that most of the car is still 20 years old. If you do things on the cheap, your car owning experience will be fraught with problems. This is a list of how I would build a ~360 whp street car from what you have so it has a little more reliability.

BNR Twins ~$2K
PFC or other ECU ~$1K
Fuel Pump ~$100
Injectors ~$300
Fuel rails ~$300
FPR ~$50
Catback ~$500
Aluminum AST ~$100
Radiator ~$300
Downpipe ~$200
Silicone vac hoses ~$300
SMIC ~ $1.5K
Resonated Midpipe/ Highflow Cat ~$300
A/I ~$300
HKS Twinpower ~$400
Tune ~$700
Plugs & wires ~$100
Intake ~$150
Bushing replacement ~$700
Coilovers ~$1K
Wheels ~$1K
Tires ~$1K
Misc parts & whatever I forgot~$700

Totals up to around $10K. You might spend more on some parts, you might spend less if you get them second hand. By the way, this is a rough estimate based on if you were building the car yourself. Don't forget to add in labor costs if you aren't doing the work (could up to double the cost). If you are serious about track work, there are some more things you can add, but the list is a good start.

For all that you will get a pretty nice Rx-7 with high 300s whp (360+) and fairly reliable as well.

This is a dangerous statement. If true, I would suggest that you go to one of the Rx-7 exclusive shops and ask them to build your car to your specs. In the end things will go smoother and take a lot less time then trying to figure the idiosyncrasies of these cars out yourself.

But, I can also respect that half the fun is building the car yourself. And, in that vein, I will finally answer the question you originally asked about local tuning shops. There aren't really any that are that local. Most are a bit of a drive away and some of the most trusted ones are even further. But, there are a couple 'professional tuners' that work with FDs that will fly in to tune your car for a pretty reasonable rate (Steve Kahn is one that sticks out). If you do choose to go this way, let the local population know we may be able to offset your costs a bit. I know that I, along with probably some others in the area would also like a tuning session for their car. Maybe we could set up a Dyno-Day at a local shop.

 

front lca: use delrin, poly sucks. or if you're concerned about NVH, use mazdaspeed stiffer rubber replacements.
rear lca: use spherical bearings, poly and delrin both suck. or if you're concerned about NVH, use stock rubber. both AWR and MMR make spherical bearings.
individual camber adjusters: I like the MMR ones.
rear sub mounts, it doesn't really matter, get something solid (metal or delrin) it doesn't increase NVH
dtss: they're all the same.


if you're going to do them I'd go to harbor frieght and get a hydraulic press, they're nice to have.

 

Ah thanks man. I shoulda said that i have... delrin f lcas.. mmr.. spherical r lcas, solid subs and their individual camber adjusters.. woulda saved you some typing. Although im glad the ones you mentioned, i happen to have lol..

My buddy works at a shop. So it and all its time saving awesomeness, is at my disposal.

 

A nice welcoming present for me when I got home today

 

Ooo very nice!

 

Dude they are freaking monster!!! That's so awesome. I can't wait to see what they look like on the car. I hope you can make it for the cruise. You need to break in the tires anyway right?

 

Check with Fritz Flynn he usually has a bunch of parts and isn't too far of a drive away.

The headlight covers are usually a hot commodity though. You'll probably need to get them from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda.

 

Nice! I read good things about the Rivals but in the end I got a set of Direzza Z2s. Mounted them last weekend and am going to re-paint my wheels this weekend if everything goes according to plan.

 

I went to go put on the new wheels and tires after getting them mounted and balanced at the "eage8 tire shop" only to find out that I need to switch over to studs and lug nuts. The stock lug bolts are too fat.

But I put one on and tightened it with my fingers to see how they look anyway and the car looks silly. The stock suspension leaves a ton of gap around the wheel arch. I really need to finish the suspension....

 

haha, that sucks.

Make sure you get the right lug nuts too. There are different kinds. most aftermarket wheels use tapered/conical nuts because they're lug centric.

 

A sneak peak of the fruits of last weekend's labor:

 

wow....what wheels are those? Looks great!

 

10X better then they looked before. Great job Matt.

 

Thanks The wheels are old Forgelines that came with the car when I bought it. They were originally polished, then black, now "aged copper".

BTW: anyone heard from Justin lately? I'm surprised he didn't show up on the Spring Cruise thread.

 

VERY nice

 

does anyone have a stock FC rear sway bar lying around?

I'm looking for a 12mm one (soft suspension) turbos and hard suspension NAs had 14mm bars.

 

I have one on my car. I have after market ones I'm going to install. So you taking my factory one would expedite my sway bar install lol

 

If you have a T2 I don't want it

I have a t2 bar, I'm looking for the smaller bar from the base model NAs