Ongoing New Mexico thread
Ih6601 I'll hit you up this weekend to come check out what parts you need. Hopefully guys I will get my LS1 next month. Then I can start building up the motor. Still need a paint job but will get it done after the swap.
Got the housing separated, and came to find out that one of the housing's and a rotor was completely fucked. Folded two seals and a side seal is cracked. and does anyone know where to get side seals and springs as a kit?
but yeah that motor was definitely not ever rebuilt ever.
It had to be? How do the ports look? That thing was ported for sure. You can tell by hearing it idle and how much more top end power it made compared to a stock 13bt. There's no way a stock, non-rebuilt, non-ported engine can sound and run the way that engine did. Are the apex seals 3 piece or 2 piece? I always wanted to know what seals it had, seeing as how I never tore into that engine to see.
And for rebuild kits,
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=5
Kit B includes the side seals and springs, or you can buy them separately.
And for rebuild kits,
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=5
Kit B includes the side seals and springs, or you can buy them separately.
Manny, I can get you those parts too. Hit me up if you interested. Can get housings, probably have a rotor.
Aaron, I sell good twostroke up here at the shop that you can do premix with, but an oil change doesn't require you to do anything with premix...
Aaron, I sell good twostroke up here at the shop that you can do premix with, but an oil change doesn't require you to do anything with premix...
yeah your premix oil goes in your gas tank at each fill up. You still have your OMP so you don't have to use much, 1/2 to 1oz per gallon. The only oil you change is engine oil, other than transmission, rear diff etc...
well crap!! i have add a little bit of gas here and there to start the car and let it run to keep things lubed will that be a problem???
Got ur pm. Responded. Looking forward to seeing ya'll around more.
Just checked out the Sagebrush Community Church autocross. They now have a separate section just for drift. I saw a white FC with a black fender (maybe 2) tearin' it up. Saw what looked like a blue (MB???) FD, but didn't see her run.
Just checked out the Sagebrush Community Church autocross. They now have a separate section just for drift. I saw a white FC with a black fender (maybe 2) tearin' it up. Saw what looked like a blue (MB???) FD, but didn't see her run.
Any opinions on permanent usage of a wideband o2 sensor and placement? I've read a bunch and it sounds like the recommendation is to move it further than the stock location, but I saw several folks say they didn't see any negatives with it running in the stock position. If it makes a difference, I've got a 93 FD with a rx7.com downpipe and a high-flo cat. Looking for experienced opinions.
No. You don't even have to put any in at all, as long as you are still runnin the stock OMP, which, unless you took it out, it still has it.
Any opinions on permanent usage of a wideband o2 sensor and placement? I've read a bunch and it sounds like the recommendation is to move it further than the stock location, but I saw several folks say they didn't see any negatives with it running in the stock position. If it makes a difference, I've got a 93 FD with a rx7.com downpipe and a high-flo cat. Looking for experienced opinions.
Thanks Sean. I may have to hit you up to take a drive with me later this year. I'm planning on getting a wideband and finally installing the Power FC. Last time I tried installing the power FC I was getting too much knock value at anything other than idle. I've replaced the old o2 sensor since then, but I figure a wideband would be even better before installing it.


