new carbon fiber interior pictures
new carbon fiber interior pictures
A couple of you have been waiting to see my first attempt a doing a rx7 interior in carbon fiber, well here it is.
More pictures at www.carbonfiberparts.net
More pictures at www.carbonfiberparts.net
HOLY ****!!! thats some amazing work, very nicely done
how much would it be to have all the pieces u have there done the same way? ill definately want it done but prolly not until this winter when the car is put away
how much would it be to have all the pieces u have there done the same way? ill definately want it done but prolly not until this winter when the car is put away
It's never fast enough...
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,760
Likes: 3
From: Miami - Given 1st place as the POOREST city in the US as per the federal government
Originally posted by DRAG0NEER
did you actually go and created cf panels or are those just covered in cf films???
did you actually go and created cf panels or are those just covered in cf films???
It looks GOOD!
Hey mkoch1, have you considered making a mold and simply making a 100% carbon fiber kit, or would the weight differance not be that much?
Last edited by Flybye; Jul 15, 2002 at 12:48 AM.
Trending Topics
I am glad you guys like the parts. It's probably my best work yet. Too bad the parts aren't for my car. I'll try and get the owner to post pictures of the parts installed in his car. I am shipping them today so he should have them soon.
Pricing for the parts
1) Exterior Door handles 150 a set.
2) Exterior triangles 30 a set
3) Interior triangles directly behind door handle 30 a set
4) Interior triangles close to window 15 a set
5) A/c Panel 75
6) Shifter panel 100
7) Gauge panel (front part with the gauges) 100
8) Gauge panel top (part you can see from the front of the car) 50
9) Driver’s side door parts 85
10) Passenger side door parts 85
And yes the price did go up allot from the first set I did only because it took allot more time than expected. I probably spent about 25 hours on these pieces.
The parts are stock interior pieces covered in carbon. If you want yours done you have to send my your parts. It takes about 2-3 weeks for me to do. Not sure you can tell from the pictures but the gauge indents are not covered in carbon, I couldn't get the carbon to make such a tight radius bend. If you are interested in getting yours done go to www.carbonfiberparts.net first come first serve.
Pricing for the parts
1) Exterior Door handles 150 a set.
2) Exterior triangles 30 a set
3) Interior triangles directly behind door handle 30 a set
4) Interior triangles close to window 15 a set
5) A/c Panel 75
6) Shifter panel 100
7) Gauge panel (front part with the gauges) 100
8) Gauge panel top (part you can see from the front of the car) 50
9) Driver’s side door parts 85
10) Passenger side door parts 85
And yes the price did go up allot from the first set I did only because it took allot more time than expected. I probably spent about 25 hours on these pieces.
The parts are stock interior pieces covered in carbon. If you want yours done you have to send my your parts. It takes about 2-3 weeks for me to do. Not sure you can tell from the pictures but the gauge indents are not covered in carbon, I couldn't get the carbon to make such a tight radius bend. If you are interested in getting yours done go to www.carbonfiberparts.net first come first serve.
Flybye
Weight wise you would save much of anything. If I had the skill to reproduce the kit completely I would but there are way too many fasteners on the backside of the pieces for me to recreate. So for now overlays only.
Last I looked into it the most complete overlay kit was around 400, so 500 for mine isn't bad considering you get allot more coverage with my parts. For those interested in trying it yourself I do have a how to up on my web site. I don’t recommend starting with the dash pieces they are pretty difficult.
Hey mkoch1, have you considered making a mold and simply making a 100% carbon fiber kit, or would the weight differance not be that much?
Weight wise you would save much of anything. If I had the skill to reproduce the kit completely I would but there are way too many fasteners on the backside of the pieces for me to recreate. So for now overlays only.
Last I looked into it the most complete overlay kit was around 400, so 500 for mine isn't bad considering you get allot more coverage with my parts. For those interested in trying it yourself I do have a how to up on my web site. I don’t recommend starting with the dash pieces they are pretty difficult.
It's never fast enough...
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,760
Likes: 3
From: Miami - Given 1st place as the POOREST city in the US as per the federal government
Originally posted by mkoch1
... So for now overlays only....
... So for now overlays only....
I think I speak for everyone when I say, you got our big
Mark:
Is it possible to finish the parts in a dull or satin clearcoat, rather than the super-gloss that the ones in the pic have? I know that CF needs UV protection, but i'm a big fan of how raw CF looks (recently checked out the CF duct for a friend CWR IC), as opposed to the super-gloss look. Thanks!
Is it possible to finish the parts in a dull or satin clearcoat, rather than the super-gloss that the ones in the pic have? I know that CF needs UV protection, but i'm a big fan of how raw CF looks (recently checked out the CF duct for a friend CWR IC), as opposed to the super-gloss look. Thanks!
very very nicely done. i just installed a CF kit (red/black) in my fd about 2 weeks ago. it looks good, but pales in comparison to the work that you have just displayed...
i want it all.....i'll pm you......
i want it all.....i'll pm you......
ptrhahn
After I clear coat the part and wet sand it, I could always not buff, polish and wax it. That would give it a smooth finish but not to glossy. Very similar to a car that hasn't be waxed in a couple a years.
Better yet I could also use some clear coat in a can spray stuff. I tried that in the beginning and it makes parts pretty dull, may be the look you are into.
E6KT2
Almost any thing can be covered in carbon. I am not too familiar with the FC interior. If you could send me some pictures I can let you know if I can do it.
Mark:
Is it possible to finish the parts in a dull or satin clearcoat, rather than the super-gloss that the ones in the pic have? I know that CF needs UV protection, but i'm a big fan of how raw CF looks (recently checked out the CF duct for a friend CWR IC), as opposed to the super-gloss look. Thanks!
Is it possible to finish the parts in a dull or satin clearcoat, rather than the super-gloss that the ones in the pic have? I know that CF needs UV protection, but i'm a big fan of how raw CF looks (recently checked out the CF duct for a friend CWR IC), as opposed to the super-gloss look. Thanks!
Better yet I could also use some clear coat in a can spray stuff. I tried that in the beginning and it makes parts pretty dull, may be the look you are into.
E6KT2
You're not too good to hook up FC parts, right?
Mr. stock
All Resins will yellow over time. One reason I spray the parts with automotive clear coat is that it contains UV protection. To further slow the process you can use a wax that has UV protection in it also.
I use a high quality epoxy resin, so I think we are talking in years and with the UV clear and wax I think we are talking along time. I just wanted to be up front with people that yellowing is possible over time. With a high gloss clear on top and dark carbon underneath I imagine it would take allot of yellowing before it would even be noticeable.
I just called the distributor of the resin and they are going to call the manufacture and get back to me with an estimate of the yellowing time. I'll post the answer ASAP.
mark
I would like to get the outside parts done but what is the effect of sunlight(UV) on the carbonfiber?
Is it something that I need to be concerned about before proceeding with this?
Is it something that I need to be concerned about before proceeding with this?
All Resins will yellow over time. One reason I spray the parts with automotive clear coat is that it contains UV protection. To further slow the process you can use a wax that has UV protection in it also.
I use a high quality epoxy resin, so I think we are talking in years and with the UV clear and wax I think we are talking along time. I just wanted to be up front with people that yellowing is possible over time. With a high gloss clear on top and dark carbon underneath I imagine it would take allot of yellowing before it would even be noticeable.
I just called the distributor of the resin and they are going to call the manufacture and get back to me with an estimate of the yellowing time. I'll post the answer ASAP.
mark



I guess the main question on everyones minds are...how much?
Bad ***!!!! Very nice job man!!! I like.



Great job.