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Input needed on setups

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Old 05-30-01, 11:33 PM
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Input needed on setups

Any help id appreciate greatly. Im looking at giving the stereo in my 87 TII an overhaul. Im looking for in the end to have a clean sounding balanced system that can handle even ultra low frequencies with no or little distortion and no scratchy or tinny sounding highs.

Im not exactly knowledgeable about building a good sounding system. Im basically just looking to learn and get some reccomendations on good sounding systems (and im damn picky about my sound). Any opinions are welcome, Thanks!


BTW - I currently have 1995 stock Alpine 4" in the front and Infinity Reference 4" in the rear with a 25x4 Alpine head unit w/CD. This all came with the car when I bought it and I plan on ripping most of it out including the stock speaker wiring.

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AOL - Geoffman72


[This message has been edited by Geoffman72 (edited May 30, 2001).]
Old 05-31-01, 12:15 AM
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For the most part I try to balance my spending equally for all the stereo components with an edge to the $$ spent on amps.

I like JL subs -- very versitle and cost effective. Lots of competitors use these subs so they are fairly clean.

I now have an Eclipse head unit and I would not give it up. I used to be a Pioneer Premier top of the line guy, but the Eclipse is top notch equipment!

I think the Phoenix Gold amps are some of the better quality and price amps on the market. I own McIntosh amps but they are super expensive. I have also used Soundstreme amps and have set friends up with those amps and I haven't heard one complaint yet!

To me mids and highs are all about the tweeter. You must find the Tweeter you like. A metal tweeter is very bright (most people I know like these the best- lots of musicians guitar players and drummers), which a silk tweeter is more natural and a good comprimise from a paper tweeter which is very smooth almost dull, yet natural. Check out Boston, MB Quartz, Diamond, Focal, A/D/S, Polk for some of the top names in mids and highs.

Also try to get a 5.25" or 6.5" mid driver up front in a door or kick panel if you can. It is well worth it.
Old 06-03-01, 01:46 AM
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If you want all that you'll need to spend lots of $$$! I used to be a car audio/security "certified" installer before I got into college, and all I have to say is that "spyfish007" is completly, perfectly RIGHT!!!

I will add to the list of amp PPI and Extant. Get an Eclipse Head Unit (I have one too), have a custom made kick panels with a 5.25 mid and tweet. and a 6.5 mid woofer at the doors. A "rear fill" at he backs with a sub of your choice (JL is excellent, however I have SAS Bazookas).

I'm a highe fan of the PPI Par 245 pre-amp, It get complicated and EXPENSIVE....BUT YOU'LL LOVE IT!!

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KNO
Old 06-03-01, 05:19 PM
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Talking

I also agree with most of what Spyfish said except the approval of Soundstream amps, not just from rumors but in my own experience I learned EXACTLY how they got the name SMOKESCREEN, dont buy one of those. I am sure their top of the line models like the Da Vinici or Tarantula arent bad but unless you are ready to spend that kind of jack stay away from Soundstream. Also JL subs are really nice, they play loud, not anywhere near the "best sounding" sub out there but they definitely play loud, guess it depends on what kind of low end you are trying to achieve. Good luck though,

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Steve
OneQuickRx7@hotmail.com

93 CYM R1
Pettit 3" SS downpipe
Pettit 3" SS catback
APEXi Power Intake
Tokico Illumina shocks
Boost & A/F gauges
99 tailight conversion
Silicon hoses(soon)
Kicker sound system
Old 06-04-01, 02:19 AM
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Hey, Take it easy on Soundstream. I know what you mean about them smoking but I have to tell you that I have repaired just about every brand of car audio amplifier on the market and I can tell you this. Of the 30 or so Soundstream amps that I have repaired, Not one of them blew up while running at specified impedences. Another thing about the soundstream amps is that they are constructed very very well. They have a terrific tiedown method for the power supply fets and all the rectifiers and transistors. They are very clean amps and provide atleast rated power if not better in most situations. The referance series amps are very versatile and have good built in xover networks. However I wish that they would build the power supplies a little stronger in them. Thats usually why they smoke,They power supply burns up.

Anyhow, How much are you looking to spend? I would suggest 12's for a good combo of accuracy and low end extension. A sealed box is going to give you the best accuracy. It going to be tough for you to get a good respose below about 30 hz and a good transient response for your higher freq's. Like everybody else said if you upgrade to some 6.5' components with good midbass drivers you can get them to do good down to about 85 -100 hz. so that will help some.
Old 06-04-01, 07:55 AM
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I agree with the 12" recommendation for a subwoofer or if you could fit it, a nice 15". There is nothing inherently wrong with a large diameter woofer if you buy high quality. You can easily get the same transient response for a 22" woofer as you can from a 8".

JL Audio subs are known more for the SQ than for their SPL.

Nak, Alpine, Clarion, Eclipse, Sony ES, Kenwood, Pioneer Premier all make very nice HUs. Find the one that you like the looks of that has the features you want. My personal recommendation for the best unit it the Sony CDX-C90, hands down.

You can buy some 6.5" Focals at www.zalytron.com right now for 129.00.
Old 06-04-01, 11:52 AM
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Well, im looking to spend 1000, maybe 1500. Im also looking to keep it stock looking via incorporating components into the storage bin area and directly in front of the tail lights. I know this could mean compromising sound quality but id rather keep my investment mainly hidden (also dont want to tint or install a cargo cover in my car). Did I mention I was good at fabrications?
Old 06-05-01, 12:25 AM
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If you are on a budget, definitely get the focals on sale at www.zalytron.com.

For woofers, I guess I need to know houch space you have available.
Old 06-05-01, 10:59 AM
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In terms of space, its basically a stock 87 TII. I was considering making a box that would give the rear hatch area a little more depth behind the carpeting, and installing the subs there. Then possibly some 6 1/2"s in the shock towers and some 6x9"s in the doors?

Any opinions on under seat mounted subs? A friend of mine has the factory one in his WRX and its not so hot.
Old 06-05-01, 07:49 PM
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Well, im not up on the volume of that space. Its probably not enough for two 12s which is why I thought of extending the area in front of the tails and spare tire (if you've seen Jeff Wozniaks site you know what im talking about, hes got the amps in between the carpet and the taillights).

Basically Im saying I could make an enclosure that wouldnt encroach on the space in the hatch too much, and am looking for a sub that would sound good even with the limited volume this kind of setup would have.

I'll go out and calc the volume im going to be working with here before the modifications to see if I even need to build anything. Thanks for all the responses so far!
Old 06-06-01, 12:42 AM
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I'm sorry but I'm familiar enough with an 87 to know how much space you have for the sub Give me an estimate on space if you can. 1 cubic foot? .5 cubic feet? That'll determine what kind of subs you will end up choosing from.

However, definitely get the focals over any 6x9 on the market. They have a 6.5" version for 129.00 a pair. I don't think you could ind anything with the equivalent SQ for under 300.00.
Old 06-06-01, 08:13 AM
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A single 12 would probably be more than enough in an RX.

If you want some suggestions on some great bang for the buck subs, let me know. I'd be glad to give you all the info you need. Let me know when you have a general estimate of how much room you have.

Thanks.
Old 06-13-01, 01:36 AM
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if you remove the spare tire you can fit a single 12" in there. not sure on the box meausurements but I have seen it done. then you can put amp(s) in the bins or on the sides of the spare. there is no room under the seats for anything. you could build subs in the bins but that would be harder and not sound as good as in the spare tire. I would get a set of 6.5's for the rear towers and try and get a set of 5 1/4" or 6.5" components into the front doors. that's all you need. ditch the dash speakers.

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Scott M,
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