This one may be a little easier.. Im using the dimming feature on my gauges and i need to connect to the 12v headlamp source. I think i have it here the red line in the first pic (because its after the switch comes on) but I want to be sure. I think the pic with the circle in red shows the headlamp switch, (maybe to the retractor motors themselves) which would work (too), correct? Experts?


Ive been going over the wiring diagrams, I have the 1988 ones, for the past two days and I think I understand it enough to start tracing wires, but ive never installed electronics before. I DO know how to splice, solder and all that correctly, Im just not comfortable testing for voltages and continuties yet.

Please let me know Im at least on the right track following the diagrams.

 

I forgot to mention this is for an 88 10th anniv. thanks

 

looking again at it, i believe the red line i drew activates the dimmer switch (for hi/lo beam), therefore I want to tap into the White/Blue wire on the harness side of the plug (yellow line) which is actual power (12v) from the relay to the switch (when you turn the lights on). Am I correct? if so, then Im pretty confident about the rest of my wiring issues, and reading these durn diagrams

I just need to connect to the positive 12v headlamp source wire (closest to the a-pillar is ideal). Thanks guys.

 

First of all, I want you to ignore all that you previously wrote. There is a MUCH simpler and easier way to accomplish your intended goal.

Pull the cluster and take a look at what's attached to the cluster connectors If you reach in and feel around, you'll find connector FME-01 and can unplug the Meter subharness. Now, I want you to splice into the following wires at about halfway between the FME-01 and ME-01/ME-02 connectors:

Black/Yellow: Ignition Switched power, comes from the METER fuse
Red/Green: Illumination, from the dash light dimmer switch
Black: Ground for the Cluster

All of these wires run into the ME-01 cluster connector. Run your new wires to a separate connector off to the side. Now you have a handy spot for feeding extra gauges everything they need except for their individual signals. the end result should look about like this:


On my car, I decided to take it a step further by threading a few wires through the dashboard to this connector for coolant temperature, boost, wideband O2 and oil pressure from the ECU, which received its own supplementary connector in the same manner. It's not too difficult to run these wires, you just gotta pull the stereo and HVAC logicon to snake the wires through one step at a time.

 

Just do it the EASY way.
take the Red(forget what stripe color it is) that goes to the Bulb that surrounds the cigarette lighter at the surround.
Splice into that and you get the "adjustable illumination' that the Dimmer switch has to operate your gauge cluster brightness.

 

Red/Green or Red/Blue on the lighter illumination, it's the same circuit. Since the lighter bulb wiring is kind of a PITA to get to, splicing into the cluster would be easier since its subharness can be removed from the car. Call me crazy, but I much prefer doing wiring on the bench than in the footwell of the car

 

Thanks for your input fellas! I knew i was making a mountain out of a mole hill. Thats pretty slick, i was looking at the metering plug in the diagrams like hmm i think i can do something with that. i ended up using a positap on a R/G wire on the fc-02 connector for dimming. i used the one under the r/b wire on the CR1 side to be specific. You gave me a great idea for future use!

 

I did this a million years ago, but i can honestly say i have never dimmed anything in any car that i have owned, always like that **** on full brightness. Its nice to have things operating as it should, but i think its a waste of time if you arent already in the habit of fiddling with the dimmer all the time