Haltech Timing 180 out.
#1
Timing 180 out.
I’m having a timing issue. I just installed my p1000 on my 13b REW with LS1 Coils and I got the car started but my timing is 180 degrees out. I’ve double checked all my wiring.
Trigger
Yellow---White wire (White connector)
Blue---Green and Red wires
Home
Yellow---Black Wire (Grey connector)
Blue--- Green and Red wires
Ignition
12 volt Red/Yellow-
Ground
Signal Ground
Ing 1 Leading
Ing 2 Trail Front
Ing 3 Trail Rear
Right now I have Trailing plugs disconnected and the timing locked with the 20 degree split angle is set 65 and it’s still 180 out. I’m running one of Cludio base maps for stock coils so I had to adjust the settings for the LS1 coils.
So did I miss something?
Trigger
Yellow---White wire (White connector)
Blue---Green and Red wires
Home
Yellow---Black Wire (Grey connector)
Blue--- Green and Red wires
Ignition
12 volt Red/Yellow-
Ground
Signal Ground
Ing 1 Leading
Ing 2 Trail Front
Ing 3 Trail Rear
Right now I have Trailing plugs disconnected and the timing locked with the 20 degree split angle is set 65 and it’s still 180 out. I’m running one of Cludio base maps for stock coils so I had to adjust the settings for the LS1 coils.
So did I miss something?
#4
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
What is your spark mode set to? If you have both leading coils ganged on IGN1 then you need to have spark mode set as wastespark.
What changes did you make to suit the LS1 coils?
Any reason you decided against running direct fire?
When running in wastespark both leading coils fire every 180* so it's possible, especially with the engine not running, to have the timing light pickup on the out of time spark and show you a spot on the opposite side of the pulley. Basically, with wastespark 180* out is correct because the coil should be firing every 180*.
What changes did you make to suit the LS1 coils?
Any reason you decided against running direct fire?
When running in wastespark both leading coils fire every 180* so it's possible, especially with the engine not running, to have the timing light pickup on the out of time spark and show you a spot on the opposite side of the pulley. Basically, with wastespark 180* out is correct because the coil should be firing every 180*.
#5
EFI Tech Wannabe
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Ok, if you bought 4 LS1 coils, you should definitely switch the thing to Direct Fire, will allow you to run much better.
Ign1 = L1
Ign2 = L2
Ign3 = T1
Ign4 = T2
Set spark mode to Direct Fire, Constant Charge, 5mS dwell time, and you should be OK. Trigger angle should be around 65 degrees +/- a couple degrees, tooth offset is 11.
Put the Timing light on T1 and see where you are there. Lock timing value should be -5 degrees and split 15.
I think RX72c commented that map needed revising, and i would appreciate any feedback you had!
Thanks.
Ign1 = L1
Ign2 = L2
Ign3 = T1
Ign4 = T2
Set spark mode to Direct Fire, Constant Charge, 5mS dwell time, and you should be OK. Trigger angle should be around 65 degrees +/- a couple degrees, tooth offset is 11.
Put the Timing light on T1 and see where you are there. Lock timing value should be -5 degrees and split 15.
I think RX72c commented that map needed revising, and i would appreciate any feedback you had!
Thanks.
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#8
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Ign1 = L1/L2
Ign3 = T1
Ign4 = T2
You mentioned you had it as ign1-2-3, that is actually wrong, since on wasted spark you probably werent even firing T1, since that output isnt activated as an ignition output under that mode, I hope you didnt fry that coil.
Check this diagram out: PS1K to Mazda RX-7 FD LS1coils Diagram
Im going to do a sticky with all these new Haltech diagrams and some base settings, if anybody notices a mistake or any wrong info, please let me know immediately.
#10
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
I have a map that works with direct fire.
But its for a 5 bar setup.
I guess i can redo it to suit a different map sensor.
Although in saying that the car we were testing it had setup issues so in actual fact that base map may have no problem. The only issue that it definitely had was injector staging. HUGE lean spot.
But its for a 5 bar setup.
I guess i can redo it to suit a different map sensor.
Although in saying that the car we were testing it had setup issues so in actual fact that base map may have no problem. The only issue that it definitely had was injector staging. HUGE lean spot.
#11
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I have a map that works with direct fire.
But its for a 5 bar setup.
I guess i can redo it to suit a different map sensor.
Although in saying that the car we were testing it had setup issues so in actual fact that base map may have no problem. The only issue that it definitely had was injector staging. HUGE lean spot.
But its for a 5 bar setup.
I guess i can redo it to suit a different map sensor.
Although in saying that the car we were testing it had setup issues so in actual fact that base map may have no problem. The only issue that it definitely had was injector staging. HUGE lean spot.
Its an import issue, those maps come into ECU Manager zero'd out for some reason. I think its cause the original map on halwin map i imported it was set to common mode and the ECU Manager map was enabled as Primary Hold.
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