this is just a short version of whats going on. there are alot more details i can bring up later.

i was reinstaling my bnr turbo and i installed my 1600 secondarys. when i went to fire the car up it didnt run well. it acted like it was getting way to much gas and it died. i figured i would have to move the staging bar and get my 1600 cc map loaded. i did this and it still flooded and would not even fire or pop off. i had to get it going because it is my DD so i put the stock injectors back in. cleaned the plugs and gave it a little oil. it didnt even try to start. the plugs just get soaked.
i put in some new plugs the next day and still nothing.

compression is 115 to 120 all faces
spark is on time checked via timing light
fuel presure was at 40 lbs with an aftermarket fpr, just for drill i put the stock fpr back on.

my milaseconds at crainking were up arround 6 which is what was starting the car fine in the cold temps here.
i have adjusted the fuel bars in anywhere from 0 to 6 milaseconds and it still foods the car and doesnt even attempt to start

i have visualy inspected the fuel injectors with fuel pressure and they are not leaking

has any one ever had an e6x injector driver hold the injectors open longer then there suppose to?
i know there are software problems with the 1.26 halwin

any ideas? i am about to buy an e8

the boys at haltech dont have much insite on my problem

it appears that the injectors are staying open for longer then there suppose to
and it is not showing up on the laptop

 

you might check and see what your prestart injection is set at. Its supposed to inject a little bit of gas when your turn the key on. to "prime" the engine.

have you tired reloading your first map?

 

i reloaded the map that started my car for the first time i reloaded several othe maps that i had saved
i couldnt even get it to pop with a 0 throttle map

 

Can you confirm the spark plugs are even firing?
If you fouled them hard enough, they will quit firing or fire very weak sparks.
Couples with a rich start, and it'll flood everytime...

To be sure, swap out for a new set?


-Ted

 

i swaped in a new set and after thoes had been fouled i just started torching them

if i clean the plugs and disable the fuel pump i can get the to start off either

i checked the voltage of my spark and it was between 19 and 39 kv.
39 is a little high but i suppose that is normal for the rotarys hight energy ignition system.

 

update
to day i put a oscilloscope on my injectors. i could not get an accurate reading. my actual injector on time ranged from 6 to 200 milliseconds. it appears that somewhere the injectors are grounding, or bleeding current to ground causing the injectors to stay open.
i dissected my injection harness back to the haltech side of the wires and all of the connections look intact .
i will need to ohm test each injector terminal all the way back to main harness plug and to ground as well.
i am not sure if an injector driver can fail in this way.
any input would be appreciated

 

Turbine, have you measured the resistance of your injectors? Maybe they're faulty, and staying open too long (sticking), thereby flooding the engine.

Re: Your o'scope measurements. If the engine's cranking at 300rpm then this is equivalent to 5 revs/sec, or 1 revolution every 200millisecs. Could this be what you're seeing on the scope? The ECU injector driver should be should outputting be a square wave, 12Volts for 200ms followed by 0Volts for 6ms etc.

Also, I had spark plug problems when I installed my E11v2. I had NGK 9's all round originally, which made starting a PIA in the cold Winter last year. I swapped the 9's in the leading holes for 7's just to get the engine started more easily. Perhaps the Igniter or Coils are not giving each plug a strong consistent spark. Check this by sight.

Finally, try increasing the fuel on cranking. I was using 9ms when the air temp outside was 5degC. What's the temp where you live?

I hope some of this helps,

Adrian

 

thank you for the input

i have not measured the resistance on the injectors, they are fresh rebuilds. but it wont hurt to check them.

the injector wave is not a square wave it is a peak and hold wave. voltage spikes then ramps to ground. it has held ground(injector open) up to 200 ms intermittently.
i used an injector noid light and the first flash is good then the flashes get dimmer.

the spark is visible but it doesn't look as good as i would think it should. but i am not really a believer in weak spark. generally you have spark or you don't.
i do have another coil and igniter i may give it a swap for drill.

it is about 5 deg C and the plugs are getting wet

 

well i finaly got a replacement ecu from haltech after they couldnt repair my old one.
i droped it in the 7 yesterday and she fired right up. what a pain in the ***. the whole process took about 2 months

now its back to the dyno