My harness is only showing 2 wires and the sensor has 3 wires.
the wires showing on the harness are purple/red stripe and grey w/red stripe.
Which is what and Do I just run the 3rd wire as a ground?
Harness is marked DPO3 and is a custom wiring from Ludwig!.(cough..hello?Me again!)

 

Try the breakout labeled MAP.

 

Oh,boy...(duh..!)
THANKS!..(I Shall do that.)!

 

The one you opened would be used for a boost controller, or any other DPO purpose. Download the Haltech wiring diagram from their site and it will give you the pinout for the MAP sensor.

 

I had the harness stuck out of the firewall with the DPO's for fan and boost.
I rolled up the excess under the dash,so Now I have to get at the roll and stick the MAP portion out of the firewall.
I didn't just post though Chris!.I looked at the haltech to RX7 stuff and the Haltech wiring.
The thing I got confused on was that I kept thinking it was a BOOST sensor and not the proper name of a MAP sensor.
...black thingie,with nipple,and 3 wires...That I totally Understand!!..lol!

 

Wires were NOT marked Chris.
So,I looked at the Wiring pin out.(PS1000)
Confirm this please:pin15.. Yellow.. MAP
pin10 or pin11.. B.. (Ground).
pin9 is +5vdc,and pin12 is +8vdc.Which one do I use for Map voltage?
thanks.

 

Map Sensor signal input is the Yellow Wire.
Power is 5v from the Orange Wire(s).
Ground is Black w/White Trace wire.
Pinout for the Map Sensor's connector is in the Haltech Documentation.

Nothing that I know of uses the 8V pin (Orange w/White trace), so I moved that wire to AVI#2 to go to my 20B's OMP, merged all the 5V wires back together to go to a bus bar. While I was messing with the harness, I gave it a BIG overhaul and removed all the excess stuff from it to make it more manageable, moved the relays & fuses away from the ECU and bundled it into logical groups. Eliminated about 50-60ft of Black/White and Gray/Red wire, which was reused to run power and ground from their respective bus bars. From the 5V Bus bar, everything has Gray/Red wire, goes through a Metripack 150 subharness connector and then to its target (Map sensor, TPS, OMP and an Idle-up relay).

The Ground Bus bar is linked directly to the stock chassis ground point on the driver's side strut tower using a 4awg cable. This makes absolutely sure that everything has a solid ground and doubles as a convenient negative jumpstart point.

Positive side of the relocated battery has its own bus bar as well. This was necessary due to the number of 4awg cables meeting at one point and also serves as a positive jumpstart point. Also gave the car a smaller ignition-switched bus bar (part of the fan control relay panel) to make future additions easy no matter what is being added.

My method is quite radical compared to most wiring arrangements, but it eliminates a boatload of excess from a Flying Lead Harness. Moving the fuses & relays away from the ECU makes running the harness through the car's firewall from a tedious two-person job that takes over an hour (for the first time) to something you can do yourself in under 15 minutes and makes them a bit more accessible too. Instead of feeding each group of wires up from under the dashboard, one can simply poke the haltech connectors through from the engine side and pull them in from the bottom. Check out my build thread "The 12 Days of Rotormas" in the Second Gen Section for more info on these modifications.

 

Thanks Akagis.
I am also re-wiring the engine bay driver's side.Cleaned that up a bit.
I am not out to show the car,I am wrenching on it to drive the **** out of it, so it is just a 'get rid of this and that" and tape job.
All new sub harness wires though,and looming that to look half decent.
I've got too many hours in this car.Once i get this thing together I am starting on my Ford Explorer for winter....yay???