Haltech HELP! no fuel in combustion chambers ps1000
hi all, and thanks in advance for everyones help.
so my set up is:
- POWER SPORT 1000
-LS2 coils
-stock CAS
-88 TII street ported with turbonetics T4 .70 ar/.81 ar
-all emissions removed (duh lol)
-i bought the fully terminated harness that haltech sells for the 13BT
-stock timing set at 5deg ATDC
-trigger angle is 65 or 55 degrees
- all sensors are hoooked up
i have fuel pressure at 45 psi with a walbro and all, and on the laptop i set "base fuel" to 32 on 0 rpm to 1000 rpm from -14.5psi to 0 psi (trying to get it started) but i still chek my spark plugs and they are completely dry.. NO FUEL is going in.
now what could it be?? i have fuel pressure, i have spark, the laptop says i have injector duty cycles but car dsnt even want to turn on.. it sound out of fuel.. what can i do?? thanks in advance
so my set up is:
- POWER SPORT 1000
-LS2 coils
-stock CAS
-88 TII street ported with turbonetics T4 .70 ar/.81 ar
-all emissions removed (duh lol)
-i bought the fully terminated harness that haltech sells for the 13BT
-stock timing set at 5deg ATDC
-trigger angle is 65 or 55 degrees
- all sensors are hoooked up
i have fuel pressure at 45 psi with a walbro and all, and on the laptop i set "base fuel" to 32 on 0 rpm to 1000 rpm from -14.5psi to 0 psi (trying to get it started) but i still chek my spark plugs and they are completely dry.. NO FUEL is going in.
now what could it be?? i have fuel pressure, i have spark, the laptop says i have injector duty cycles but car dsnt even want to turn on.. it sound out of fuel.. what can i do?? thanks in advance
When cranking, make sure you're seeing an engine RPM reading. If you're getting that but still verifiably have no fuel, make sure the primary fuel injectors have power and make sure they're wired up correctly.
What he said. But, if you're getting spark I'd have to assume you're getting an RPM reading. Make sure the injectors are enabled in the fuel setup menu. Like Brian said, check for positive voltage at the injectors.
On the Cosmo engines I like to pull the CAS out and spin it by hand if I have an issue like this. When doing that you can actually hear if the injectors are cycling and the plugs are sparking.
On the Cosmo engines I like to pull the CAS out and spin it by hand if I have an issue like this. When doing that you can actually hear if the injectors are cycling and the plugs are sparking.
ok, i do have an RPM reading and I do have the injectors enabled on staged injection. should i move the base ignition timing from 0 to 1000 rpm from vacuum to 0 psi tto 0 degrees?? and how can i take a screen shot of the laptop for i can post it up here??
Last edited by Cleva Locc Dogg; Jul 20, 2010 at 04:10 PM. Reason: WRONG
trigger type - mazda rotary multi tooth 24 and 2
trigger angle- 65*
tooth offset- 11
trigger & home edge- falling
trigger & home sensor type- reluctor
home & trigger filter level - level 1
CJECKED box for :
trigger -ve GND
AND
home -ve GND
trigger angle- 65*
tooth offset- 11
trigger & home edge- falling
trigger & home sensor type- reluctor
home & trigger filter level - level 1
CJECKED box for :
trigger -ve GND
AND
home -ve GND
If you have an RPM signal and the pulse width is showing anything over 0 while you're cranking the engine you should have fuel. Changing ignition timing and/or trigger settings won't solve your problem.
Check for voltage at the injector.
Check for voltage at the injector.
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ok, injector problem SOLVED now i have a problem with SPARK ugh!! i bought a fully terminated harness by haltech off of nelson s from soCal.. and from seeing hitman's instructions :
CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
The wiring for the Crank Angle Sensor ( CAS ) is fairly straight forward. From the Haltech loom you will see a thick , shielded cable with 4 coloured wires inside (Yellow, Green, Blue, Red). The Grey/Red wire and the Black wire are not used on the standard Mazda CAS due to it being a Reluctor type pickup which does not need a power and earth. The shielded cable should be routed to the CAS and wired up as follows :
CAS
Haltech
Red to Yellow Main Trigger +ve
Green to Green Home Trigger +ve
White to Red Main Trigger -ve
White/Black to Blue Home Trigger -ve
NOW am i hopelessly confused? here are the pics showing that the terminal connector is wrongly wired
CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
The wiring for the Crank Angle Sensor ( CAS ) is fairly straight forward. From the Haltech loom you will see a thick , shielded cable with 4 coloured wires inside (Yellow, Green, Blue, Red). The Grey/Red wire and the Black wire are not used on the standard Mazda CAS due to it being a Reluctor type pickup which does not need a power and earth. The shielded cable should be routed to the CAS and wired up as follows :
CAS
Haltech
Red to Yellow Main Trigger +ve
Green to Green Home Trigger +ve
White to Red Main Trigger -ve
White/Black to Blue Home Trigger -ve
NOW am i hopelessly confused? here are the pics showing that the terminal connector is wrongly wired
The Hitman document is dated and it not applicable to the loom you have.
Do you have an rpm reading on the data page when you crank the engine on the starter? You already said you had spark once, which would indicate the CAS was properly functioning, what have you changed.
Do you have an rpm reading on the data page when you crank the engine on the starter? You already said you had spark once, which would indicate the CAS was properly functioning, what have you changed.
spark fine now, but now car will not start!! i tried push starting it all the way in 3rd gear and my wideband read 21.... SUPER lean meaning the fuel map i got from the supposed "base map" is just shamefully wrong.. can any one give me a fuel map??? i have 750 primaries and 1680 secondaries. car wont start at cranking. the main setup says tuning method : injection time. correct??? or should it be VE. i dont have a mass air or anything like that
"shamefully wrong" base map, huh? Keep in mind people develop and provide those at their own expense and cost over time.
If it doesn't start then it could be for many reasons. Ignore an AFR 21:1 reading. Could be flooded engine. Could be old plugs. Base timing being very out-of-whack. Crank angle sensor inserted incorrectly. All sorts of reasons.
B
If it doesn't start then it could be for many reasons. Ignore an AFR 21:1 reading. Could be flooded engine. Could be old plugs. Base timing being very out-of-whack. Crank angle sensor inserted incorrectly. All sorts of reasons.
B
ok, injector problem SOLVED now i have a problem with SPARK ugh!! i bought a fully terminated harness by haltech off of nelson s from soCal.. and from seeing hitman's instructions :
CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
The wiring for the Crank Angle Sensor ( CAS ) is fairly straight forward. From the Haltech loom you will see a thick , shielded cable with 4 coloured wires inside (Yellow, Green, Blue, Red). The Grey/Red wire and the Black wire are not used on the standard Mazda CAS due to it being a Reluctor type pickup which does not need a power and earth. The shielded cable should be routed to the CAS and wired up as follows :
CAS
Haltech
Red to Yellow Main Trigger +ve
Green to Green Home Trigger +ve
White to Red Main Trigger -ve
White/Black to Blue Home Trigger -ve
NOW am i hopelessly confused? here are the pics showing that the terminal connector is wrongly wired
CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
The wiring for the Crank Angle Sensor ( CAS ) is fairly straight forward. From the Haltech loom you will see a thick , shielded cable with 4 coloured wires inside (Yellow, Green, Blue, Red). The Grey/Red wire and the Black wire are not used on the standard Mazda CAS due to it being a Reluctor type pickup which does not need a power and earth. The shielded cable should be routed to the CAS and wired up as follows :
CAS
Haltech
Red to Yellow Main Trigger +ve
Green to Green Home Trigger +ve
White to Red Main Trigger -ve
White/Black to Blue Home Trigger -ve
NOW am i hopelessly confused? here are the pics showing that the terminal connector is wrongly wired
Please see attached
my CAS wiring is as follows, and i didn't wire it, it's as it came off of the "fully terminated harness" sold from haltech:
CAS side ----- plug ecu wire color:
Red---Green
White---Yellow
Green---Blue
White/Black---Red
the thing is that i DO get a home and trigger reading with some "misfire counts"
i'm assuming that i cant get the right trigger angle and tooth offset. switched from the factory mazda setting of 65* offset 11 to hitman's 65* offset 3..... NOTHING
someone shoot me lol
and ya, i realize those maps ppl give are hard work from them just to help us out.. so i do apologize for saying that..... i'm just mad cus i cant get my car started >:o
CAS side ----- plug ecu wire color:
Red---Green
White---Yellow
Green---Blue
White/Black---Red
the thing is that i DO get a home and trigger reading with some "misfire counts"
i'm assuming that i cant get the right trigger angle and tooth offset. switched from the factory mazda setting of 65* offset 11 to hitman's 65* offset 3..... NOTHING
someone shoot me lol
and ya, i realize those maps ppl give are hard work from them just to help us out.. so i do apologize for saying that..... i'm just mad cus i cant get my car started >:o
Last edited by Cleva Locc Dogg; Jul 28, 2010 at 01:39 AM. Reason: spelling
brum brum brum brum!!! it STARTED!!!!!! THANKS!!: ludwig, BDC, Sesshoumaru
you guys ROCK!!
ya turns out haltech messed up on the wiring of the CAS connector thanks again guys.. now to tuning!
you guys ROCK!!
ya turns out haltech messed up on the wiring of the CAS connector thanks again guys.. now to tuning!
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