Hey guys what wires on the Home/Trigger harness do you use for the NE- and G-wires. I've tried both the yellow and green and I can't get the timming set.

My set up PS1000, on a 94 fd w/13brew and LS2 coils.
trigger angle set 65 offset 10.

 

Did you check this out?

PS1K to FD w/ LS1 coils

Its in the Diagrams and Setup Tips thread.

 

I got the car to Zero out at 58 and 10 but the car will not idle and I unlock the timing reset the ECU the car will not start again untail I reset it back to 65/10.

 

Cluaido, yes I did. I tried using pin 14 for the negitive signal and the car runs great but its 8-10 degrees out. Then BDC recomended I try pins 5 and 6 for a negitive signal, Same problem but When I adjust the timing the timming mark does not move. I also shielded and grounded about 18" of the Trigger/Home lead starting from the sensors.

So I'm guessing by your diagram I might need to use pins 5 and 14 together on the trigger lead since on the Home lead you mention 14 is not used.

 

Ok, run that by me again? is the timing drifting or not? if its not drifting when you lock it, all is well and you can go tune it. Also, are you using a digital timing gun or an analog simple POS 30 buck timing light (which is best).

Im having a similar issue with my Supra, and im waiting on a new timing light.

Settings for PSport units is trigger angle 55-65 and tooth offset 10-11, edges falling, 24+2 trigger, you may want to play with trigger voltage threshold, if you have an E11 harness pins 5 and 6 arent there, if you have a sport harness then connect them respectively, crank ref is main trigger, sync event is the home, use each separate bundle, keep the wires away from the alternator, coils, plug leads, etc.

Normally, if you connect the trigger sensors pos and neg wires to the + and - yellow and green wires, you normally dont have to enable the -VE in the tirgger setup, but see if it helps.

 

Yeah, im still using the same $30 timing light that you used last time you were here.

Right now I can set it to 58 and it will be right on, but the car will not idle. and when it dies or if I reset the ecu it will 15 degrees out, (Left of the mark), if its set at 65 it will be right of the mark.

 

Thanks Claudio. Well I got a nicer Analog timing light but no difference.

As you recommended

NE+ YELLOW
NE- GREEN
G+ YELLOW
G- GREEN

Timing is now set but car will not ide at 58/10. idle jumps 600-1900rpm.

 

That could be for all sorts of reasons: vacuum leak, fuel maps are (generally) too lean in vacuum, etc.

B

 

Well I could not find a leak, but if I riching the mixture to 12.1 it will idle at around 800rpm, but the sec i try to lean it out it starts to race up and down. athough the vacuum is kinda low 7-8psi on a fresh rebuild.

 

What you can do is grab all of the fuel bars in vacuum, then hit R for All Ranges, then P for Percentage change, and add 8%. We'll see how it goes from there.

B

 

Brain, you got the be joking, I may be a NEWBIE with the PS1, but most of the controls are the same on the E6Ks which I played around with for 3 years.

 

Not joking. They changed the keystrokes yet again for ECU Manager. It tripped me up at first. It's why I listed a few of them for you.

B

 

Ok you guys were right, there was a leak, but not a air leak it was a fuel leak. I guess when I put in the supra fuel pump I left the old "O" ring and cap in the tube and just put in the new pump. So I guess under low load the pump would not pressure line enough to run the car so it would die idle up and down. To Bad it took me 6 months to find this.

 

Bingo! I've fixed this a few times while out in the field. It's common on the 5th series and the 3rd gens. How'd you fix it? Normally I just chop the flared tube off and use a 5/16" EFI high pressure hose and a pair of clamps.

Where are you at now with the car and the base map?

B

 

Can't wait to get my p2000. . All these knowledgeable people in here to help me when I have problems.