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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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Haltech and FC ignitors

Info about planned setup : 20B, Haltech PS2000, 6 FC TII ignitors with 6 coils...

I am just trying to verify my ideas about wiring trailing packs :

By looking at picture here :

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=13895

Black is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to one of the coils - this wire will stay there and will go to T coil
Yellow - Tacho (no need to connect anywhere if i use Tacho signal from Haltech)
Grey - unknown?
White - Toggle (Bypass) AUX (no need to connect when using this ignitor to fire only one coil)
Pink - IGN Trigger - will wire it to IGN1 of Haltech wiring
Tan - 12V+ signal ( will wire it to R/Y wire from haltech ignition power relay) -there are actually 2 wires on this pin, one is input from wiring harness (2 pin plug) and other one goes to coils directly?
Blue is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to the other coil on this pack - if i will run just one coil, i wont use this one (in case this is T2 coil)



Does this sound correct? Whats Grey wire for?

And do i need to know if should keep ignitor in its aluminium case
(for cooling/protecting ?) or if i could put all 6 ignitors into one box.
And can i run longer wires from ignitor to coils? In that case, i
would install ignitors behind the strut tower (where TII coilpack sits
originally) and run wires to the coils which i can mount on engine.....

thanks for any ideas...
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #2  
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Honestly, skip all that and use an LS2 or Mercury coil with built-in ignitor. IMO any 20B project should be above parts bin scrounging.

Or source a pair of FD ignitors. This will at least give a cleaner install.
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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i thought grey was a PWM test pin
and yes,, there is a real need for the igniter to be bolted to a decent heatsink,, individuals preferred,, be it stock box or home made extrusion

i see no issues elongating wiring, as long as neat with good connections and avoiding the ignition leads so as to avoid RFI introduction

Last edited by bumpstart; Mar 30, 2010 at 08:31 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
Honestly, skip all that and use an LS2 or Mercury coil with built-in ignitor. IMO any 20B project should be above parts bin scrounging.

Or source a pair of FD ignitors. This will at least give a cleaner install.
I am accepting donations, but i doubt that it will happen => i will use what i have if it will work.

Back to topic, could anyone confirm that wiring idea?
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by hIGGI
Info about planned setup : 20B, Haltech PS2000, 6 FC TII ignitors with 6 coils...

I am just trying to verify my ideas about wiring trailing packs :

By looking at picture here :

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=13895

Black is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to one of the coils - this wire will stay there and will go to T coil
Yellow - Tacho (no need to connect anywhere if i use Tacho signal from Haltech)
Grey - unknown?
White - Toggle (Bypass) AUX (no need to connect when using this ignitor to fire only one coil)
Pink - IGN Trigger - will wire it to IGN1 of Haltech wiring
Tan - 12V+ signal ( will wire it to R/Y wire from haltech ignition power relay) -there are actually 2 wires on this pin, one is input from wiring harness (2 pin plug) and other one goes to coils directly?
Blue is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to the other coil on this pack - if i will run just one coil, i wont use this one (in case this is T2 coil)



Does this sound correct? Whats Grey wire for?

And do i need to know if should keep ignitor in its aluminium case
(for cooling/protecting ?) or if i could put all 6 ignitors into one box.
And can i run longer wires from ignitor to coils? In that case, i
would install ignitors behind the strut tower (where TII coilpack sits
originally) and run wires to the coils which i can mount on engine.....

thanks for any ideas...
I dont get this, you're actually trying to trigger a 20B using FC trailing coils? I dont know if you realized but that tip BDC gives is to be able to run a sequential leading ignition on a 13B using E6K/X ECUs, this is NOT meant for a 20B.

Also, if you're using a Sport 2000, there is no need for this, like Ludwig said, get individual LS1 or LS2 coils, you can find them at any junkyard off any chevy V8 car, they will let you make all the power you want out of that 20B.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #6  
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Claudio

I dont understand which part of my message you dont understand, but i tried to be as specific as possible. I have 6 FC Trailing coil packs and each pack has 2 coils and 1 ignitor. In stock setup ignitor could fire 2 coils thanks to toggle signal. I have Haltech PS2000 and i dont need this toggle signal. I will use all these 6 coil packs but i will keep only one coil on each. That should equal to LS2 coils you are refering, except the ignitor does not neccesary have to be mounted directly on coil.

I think i cant be more specific and no, i have not asked how to wire LS2 coils because i dont happen to have them and i live in the country where V8's are not common. I do happen to have shitload of FC parts which i could either throw away, or use. I choose latter.
Hope you understand now.

Thanks
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #7  
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In short, no, you cant. You need 6 individual coils and 6 individual igniters to run that 20B.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 11:41 AM
  #8  
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Wait a second - using 6 FC trailing ignitors and 6 FC trailing coils; one trailing coil per one trailing ignitor, wired up with IGN1-6, no toggle lead of course, I don't see why this wouldn't work having the "T1" output on all of those ignitors wired out to fire an FC coil. It's "dirty" in terms of hardware install but I think it'd work.

Settings of Direct Fire, 4.5-4.7ms dwell on Constant Charge, Falling Edge. Why wouldn't this work?

B
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
I dont get this, you're actually trying to trigger a 20B using FC trailing coils? I dont know if you realized but that tip BDC gives is to be able to run a sequential leading ignition on a 13B using E6K/X ECUs, this is NOT meant for a 20B.

Also, if you're using a Sport 2000, there is no need for this, like Ludwig said, get individual LS1 or LS2 coils, you can find them at any junkyard off any chevy V8 car, they will let you make all the power you want out of that 20B.
I told him the same thing about using LS1/LS2 coils but given his location he may not be able to get them anywhere near as easily.

B
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 12:04 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by BDC
Wait a second - using 6 FC trailing ignitors and 6 FC trailing coils; one trailing coil per one trailing ignitor, wired up with IGN1-6, no toggle lead of course, I don't see why this wouldn't work having the "T1" output on all of those ignitors wired out to fire an FC coil. It's "dirty" in terms of hardware install but I think it'd work.

Settings of Direct Fire, 4.5-4.7ms dwell on Constant Charge, Falling Edge. Why wouldn't this work?

B
Well, firing a single trailing coil pack with a single trailing igniter is what i am saying, you need 6 individual channels/signals/ignition module/coils in order to fire a 20B, i guess my head thought he was going to try something like doing wasted spark leading or something, or some toggle option.

The point is you need direct fire for the 20B to make it work.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 12:19 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
Well, firing a single trailing coil pack with a single trailing igniter is what i am saying, you need 6 individual channels/signals/ignition module/coils in order to fire a 20B, i guess my head thought he was going to try something like doing wasted spark leading or something, or some toggle option.

The point is you need direct fire for the 20B to make it work.
Yep you're right.

B
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
Well, firing a single trailing coil pack with a single trailing igniter is what i am saying, you need 6 individual channels/signals/ignition module/coils in order to fire a 20B, i guess my head thought he was going to try something like doing wasted spark leading or something, or some toggle option.

The point is you need direct fire for the 20B to make it work.
Yep you're right.

B
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by BDC
Wait a second - using 6 FC trailing ignitors and 6 FC trailing coils; one trailing coil per one trailing ignitor, wired up with IGN1-6, no toggle lead of course, I don't see why this wouldn't work having the "T1" output on all of those ignitors wired out to fire an FC coil. It's "dirty" in terms of hardware install but I think it'd work.

Settings of Direct Fire, 4.5-4.7ms dwell on Constant Charge, Falling Edge. Why wouldn't this work?

B

Now when everybody understand my plan, lets get back to the topic - wiring it.

By looking at picture here :

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=13895

Black is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to one of the coils - this wire will stay there and will go to T coil
Yellow - Tacho (no need to connect anywhere if i use Tacho signal from Haltech)
Grey - unknown?
White - Toggle (Bypass) AUX (no need to connect when using this ignitor to fire only one coil)
Pink - IGN Trigger - will wire it to IGN1 of Haltech wiring
Tan - 12V+ signal ( will wire it to R/Y wire from haltech ignition power relay) -there are actually 2 wires on this pin, one is input from wiring harness (2 pin plug) and other one goes to coils directly?
Blue is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to the other coil on this pack - if i will run just one coil, i wont use this one (in case this is T2 coil)

From haltech point of view, only 2 wires will be used on each ignitor? IGN1-6 and R/Y from Ignition Power Relay , split into 6 wires?

Or will i use wire ECU EARTH wire too?

thanks!
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 03:15 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by hIGGI
Now when everybody understand my plan, lets get back to the topic - wiring it.

By looking at picture here :

http://bdc.cyberosity.com/main.php?g2_itemId=13895

Black is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to one of the coils - this wire will stay there and will go to T coil
Yellow - Tacho (no need to connect anywhere if i use Tacho signal from Haltech)
Grey - unknown?
White - Toggle (Bypass) AUX (no need to connect when using this ignitor to fire only one coil)
Pink - IGN Trigger - will wire it to IGN1 of Haltech wiring
IGN 1-6 depending upon the channel, yep. Yellow for tacho. Grab T1 yellow for that if it doesn't already natively work. Grey ignore. White Ignore.

Tan - 12V+ signal ( will wire it to R/Y wire from haltech ignition power relay) -there are actually 2 wires on this pin, one is input from wiring harness (2 pin plug) and other one goes to coils directly?
From what I recall, yes that's right. There's a TAN input off the factory 30A-fused EGI power harness that goes to the lead and two to trailing. I think one of the TANs is used as a pass-thru at the ignitor but yes there's one TAN per coil. I don't believe it's used to power the ignitor itself although I may be mistaken.

Blue is Ground-SIGNAL from igniter to the other coil on this pack - if i will run just one coil, i wont use this one (in case this is T2 coil)

From haltech point of view, only 2 wires will be used on each ignitor? IGN1-6 and R/Y from Ignition Power Relay , split into 6 wires?

Or will i use wire ECU EARTH wire too?

thanks!
Basically you'd be using IGN1-6 from the Haltech plus wiring in a power source. You can use your own pair of relays (as I wouldn't use one fuse and relay to power 6 coils; split 'em up to 3 coils per fuse/relay) to power them directly from the battery or borrow the lead off the Haltech. I believe it has its own fuse and relay already but I'm not sure what its rated at.

B
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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OK

IGN1-6 from haltech is simply - goes to Pink (or Red in your photo) on Ignitor

On ignitor side - tan is powering both coils and ignitor as there is no other power source on wiring if grey and white will be ignored....

No ECU EARTH wire at all (as opposed to LS1 coils install)?
Coils grounded by bracket to engine block, ignitors dont need any special grounding?

thanks!
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by hIGGI
OK

IGN1-6 from haltech is simply - goes to Pink (or Red in your photo) on Ignitor

On ignitor side - tan is powering both coils and ignitor as there is no other power source on wiring if grey and white will be ignored....

No ECU EARTH wire at all (as opposed to LS1 coils install)?
Coils grounded by bracket to engine block, ignitors dont need any special grounding?

thanks!
Correct. No grounding needed for the ignitors.

B
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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On a side note....to make things more simple, would this work?

6 single trailing coils - one 6 channel ignitor from Nissan 300ZX. Ignitor from 300ZX has 6 inputs and 6 outputs and is standalone....

Is quality of spark dependent on coils or ignitor?
Thanks!
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Based on coils. Don't know if that ignitor would work or not. Might be worth trying. Would be a lot less messy than 6 FC3S trailing ignitors hacked up.

B
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by hIGGI
On a side note....to make things more simple, would this work?

6 single trailing coils - one 6 channel ignitor from Nissan 300ZX. Ignitor from 300ZX has 6 inputs and 6 outputs and is standalone....

Is quality of spark dependent on coils or ignitor?
Thanks!
Not sure how much this will help but I've used the 300zx on a SR20 swap b/c the igniter was significantly cheaper (just didn't use all 6 channels).

It should would work just fine.

I personally would put a heat sink on it, I don't think it had any sort of heat sink.

Easy to wire up and should suit your need quite well.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BDC
Based on coils. Don't know if that ignitor would work or not. Might be worth trying. Would be a lot less messy than 6 FC3S trailing ignitors hacked up.

B
Today, Scott from Haltech suggested me to NOT use 300ZX igniter with FC coils, as it will not be strong and reliable enought. So, back to the original plan and stock FC ignitors should do .....
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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No they won't. As already stated above a zillion times (ok, a quarter zillion), without a toggle they'll only fire 3 coils - and don't be tempted to run 2 coils through one igniter channel as that is asking for an igniter failure.

Buy 2x 3channel igniters. Why do people scrimp on electrical ****? It does my head in constantly. This is some of the important stuff helping your engine to not go pop. Don't think its any less important than having a fuelpump that flows enough, or anything internal in your engine.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Nige
No they won't. As already stated above a zillion times (ok, a quarter zillion), without a toggle they'll only fire 3 coils - and don't be tempted to run 2 coils through one igniter channel as that is asking for an igniter failure.

Buy 2x 3channel igniters. Why do people scrimp on electrical ****? It does my head in constantly. This is some of the important stuff helping your engine to not go pop. Don't think its any less important than having a fuelpump that flows enough, or anything internal in your engine.
You are not paying attention.

6 trailing coil packs with toggle signal will fire 12 spark plugs.
I wont be using toggle signal , so i can toss out half of the coils and use those 6 single ignitors to fire 6 single coils. And thats what i will do.

6 FC trailing coil igniters, 6 FC trailing coils
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 03:23 AM
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Ah true.

Ugly, but.

Last edited by Nige; Sep 5, 2010 at 03:25 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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Higgi, I give you props for going against the grain. Try to do a clean and reliable wiring job though.

Guys, give him a break. GM V8 parts are not widely available there (probably just shitty Opel stuff), shipping is expensive and probably a hassle, plus the T2 coils are PROVEN. The Czech Republic does NOT use the Euro, so he doesn't necessarily have exchange rates working in his favor.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 06:49 AM
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2x 3channel igniters isn't exactly breaking the bank though even if T2 coils are still used. 6 of those igniters is going to take some creative mounting to look nice.
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