Any new part which i dont have to buy means savings = > fuel money for breaking engine in, and that means i will be able to boost sooner

Anyways, i have them wired and mounted, both coils and igniters and i am actually happy with looks of it. I will post pictures later - eventually, camera is broke now and i am going to paint engine bay tomorrow anyways.

arghx, thanks !

 

Just to close this thread, 20B runs (on modified FC trailing igniters (6) and 6 single coils from FC trailing coil packs......

Still have no camera back, no pics...

 

Right on.

 

Of course, idea to set it up this way was based on BDC's experiment with FC trailing coils on E6K.
Thanks Brian!

 

post pics/video asap

 

Few pics from first trip, some details could be seen there, but not all. I still have no camera.

http://www.autoupravna.com/1-windows...oupravna-2010/

 

This is an interesting idea, very similar to what I had in mind for my 20b install. What I was going to do is use 3 FC trailing coil packs, one per rotor, with the toggle switching between leading and trailing spark. Logan at Defined Autoworks said it was a pretty good idea and should do the trick really well too.

But since coming up with a schematic, my plans have changed due to space under the hood. The new plan is to use three Leading coil packs instead. They're much smaller than the trailing coils, which will make for a cleaner install and save room under the hood too.

Also, don't let any of the detractors sway you. So-called parts bin scrounging is what sparks new development and new uses for existing parts, something the whole community can appreciate. If not for scrounging, we'd have no how-tos, no one would be using Taurus E-fans or Alternators, there'd be no T-5 or T-56 transmission swaps for those running 500+hp.

 

The trick works. I had the idea a couple years back IIRC and went searching on the 'net for it. Turns out another guy in NZ or Aus can't remember which had done it on a car of his several years prior. Had to dig through old email list messages to find it.

+1 to that.

B

 

Regardless of what kind of parts bin scrounging you want to do, to run a 3-rotor you need 6 ignition channels. Even if you're using the 2nd gen trailing coils with the toggle function you need three ignition channels and 3 toggle channels. Any ECU that can do that will run a 3-rotor without the need, or the needless complications, of using the toggle. Will it work? If you can find an ECU to do it the way you want, sure. Is it an answer to a questions that ridiculous to begin with? You bet.

 

In my case, it works as i wanted it.... 6 ignitors and 6 coils, all found in FC parts bin....and Haltech PS2000 (6 channels)

 

I'm doing this right now. I'm using the 3 channel Fd ignitor for leading. I have my engine running right now with 3 fc trailing coils on the leading and LS1 on the trailing. I did this to see if there was a difference in spark out put. Well I can say so far the fc coils are starting my engine a little better than before. With the Ls1 coils I was having to open the throttle a little bit on the hot engine. Not so with the Fc coils. I had it set up so I could change coils in about 5mins to get an accurate comparison. I'm also noticing that the fc coils are starting the engine with lower voltage. The Ls1 coils wont fire at all with anything below 11.5. That was very annoying! Now I'm going to use the 3 remaining ignitors and wire 3 more coils for the trailing. I'm gonna try to use the tach out put on trailing 1 for the cluster. If it works then I can use my PWM 1 output for something else.

 

Nothing wrong with that. But the guy that wants to use the toggle function of the ignitors is creating needless complications.

 

Ok got the remaining trailing hooked up and the engine starts very nicely now. I've already rigged up a nice mounting system for the coils to keep everything hid from view. I know most would like to use the fc coils but wont due to their size in the Fd engine bay. I will say this, my engine bay is gonna look much more tidy with these coils than before. Gotta put the engine back in the car now and make sure the tach signal works correctly on the cluster.

 

I have mounted 6 FC trailing coils under 20B UIM and ignitors are stacked in place of stock FC trailing coil pack.

Only thing concerning me is how much heat could take those coils, sitting on engine (even when they have some sort of heat shield....

 

 

Don't no but please keep us updated on that since their usually mounted on the body. Oh yea.. did you ever confirm that your twin power was creating a hotter spark?

 

No, dont know how

 

Check spark jump difference with it unpluged and pluged?

 

Tried and see no difference...

 

A friend ran his drag car on methanol with the stock ignition system, and not surprisingly it hardly ran. Plugged in the Twin-Power and used that for a few race meets, so it obviously works. He still had issues though, it only ran well on a fresh rebuild, so he went to CDI and hasn't looked back since.

It apparently does something, but stock works fine on petrol, and methanol needs CDI. Not sure if I'd ever bother using one unless running massive boost on petrol.

 

Update:

Well damn, the tach signal output from the Fc ignitors doesn't work for the Fd tach like I hoped it would. I think the frequency is off by 50% as the tach will only read half of what the actual rpms are. This kinda sucks because I was able to use some of the remaining unused factory wiring to wire everything in for a nice clean install. I was also hoping to save my PWM 1 output for other stuff. Oh well the coils work great though.

 

uploaded few more pics of my ignition setup

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=91473858b4

 

Correct, FD tach uses waste spark signal from leading effectively (actually ECU) so a single coil will be half the frequency.
Why arent you using a PS2000 output, as you can enter pulse count to suit the dash.

 

I have a E11 and I am using the PWM1 output for the tach signal. When I wired the fc coils and igniters, I was hoping to use the Fc tach ouput signal to free my PWM1 for other items. I'm gonna need every single PWM output plus the 2 aux inputs for my engine set-up. I'm currently have a problem with my aux outputs not working at all. I have the milspec harness.

 

Well I've gone back to my LS1 coils. After sorting out some electrical issues I re-installed the LS1 coils just to see if I felt a difference in my engines performance. Well I can honestly say they are performing better than the Fc coils. My street tune still needs some fine tuning. With the Fc coils, my engine would die sometimes after reving down to idle. On the exact same tune, my engine doesn't die at all under the same conditions. Low rpm drive-ability has also improved as well. Now I need to get the D585 truck coils as this should be my final set-up.