Leeroy_25

So I determined I need some lower heat rating plugs and 10's seems to be the choice for my single turbo 20B.
I now want to determine which is the better option. So there is no traditional style rotary plug in a 10 rating that I can find. Least not here in the UK? So I have a choice of the above motorbike plugs. I ran the EGV some years ago in a 13B but cannot remember much detail on how it ran specifically. Other than no major issues!
I am a bit confused by what is out there and the talk of poor idle on some and so on.
From what I can tell I read that the resistive plugs. i.e the ones with an 'R' in should help prevent rough idle as the non-resistive ones can suffer from interference. However. I gather the EGV is a strong plug than the plain EG? Not sure where the EIX comes in all this other than I assume it has the highest melting point so less likely for a tip to fall off?!

Can anyone offer any real world comparison or advice?

Cheers
Lee

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

I've been running BR10EG plugs the last couple years. I ran them on both stock FC coils and GM LS coils and both have been fine. Currently running 25-27psi of boost with about 500cc of water injection on 93AKI gas. Ported 13B with a 68mm EFR 9180. Made 539whp last weekend. I have the gap set to 0.020", but I get no misfires as long as AFRs are above 10.3:1 or so. I haven't really tried a wider gap since that's pretty close to what they come out of the box, maybe .021-.022" standard.

Anyways, I've been really happy with the BR10EG. They're around $3.50/each here in the USA and I daily drive the car except in winter. They start cold, idle well, and cruise on the highway fine. Really no noticeable difference from the stock plugs except they don't blow out spark and I trust them under high boost.

Leeroy_25

Think I might just go with these.. I was leaning towards them. Sounds Like the resistance plugs are the better option. That is what the factory ones are anyway.. and these are the cheap of the two EG plugs.

I know you need to turn down a socket to fit all these regular type plugs. However I seem to recall I got around that by grinding off the aluminium shroud part of the rotor housing that sits around the plug body on my 13B? Can anyone confirm if I remember right and if there is a reason that shouldn't be ground off! I think it was suggested to me by someone else!?

Thank you
Lee

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

If the engine is out of the car, I would consider grinding down the housing. I probably wouldn't do it if the engine is built and in the car as you risk getting metal into the engine.

I just used a bench grinder and turned down a standard 13/16" socket to have a shallow bevel at the plug end. It took a few times to get it ground down enough to grab the plug. IIRC, i had to grid till you can see the corners of the socket hex from the outside of the socket (if that makes sense).

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I used to use the BR10EIX.

I won't use any non-rotary plug with a ground strap anymore though since the BR10EIX made it a habit to drop the ground strap into the motor on the leading plugs.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

I'll definitely take a look at mine. They have over 2000 hard street miles and over 50 dyno pulls on the same set..

TomU

iTrader: (11)

This is a pretty good read

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...013-a-1046635/

Leeroy_25

Thanks for the replies chaps. I will get a spare socket to grind down for now then and remove the lumps off the block when I pull the motor for rebuild. Are the lumps just there to stop normal plugs being fitted in the first place?
Have you damaged an engine with the plug tip dropping off or did it just spit it out. That was my only worry.. I would.plan to change them regularly anyway and won't do many miles.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Have you damaged an engine with the plug tip dropping off or did it just spit it out.

I never had the electrode (tip) fall out or cracked broke porcelain (insulation) myself.

Mine was the ground strap (the hook) broke off.

First time it went through the motor/turbo okay just leaving light dents in a rotor.

Second time it dented the rotor near the seal grooves sticking the seals in the rotor and requiring a rebuild.