I've ordered a new Mazda Motorsports 13B. An acquaintance that knows rotaries suggested I remove the oil pan, remove the gasket, replace the gasket with a high quality gasket material and then replace the pan and add a pan brace.

Apparently the 13B is prone to oil pan leaks? Is this process really required on a new Mazda Motorsports engine?

 

You will get mixed responses but I think it's fair to say that the general forum consensus is yes. There are longer answers out there but it doesn't have anything to do with the pan or motor being new or old; the pan leaks because oil is always above the seal area.

 

They all leak eventually due to the flawed design where the motor mounts bolt through the pan. Mazda no longer uses the paper gaskets so they seem to seal better, but I still recommend installing an oil pan brace https://www.irperformance.com/produc...oil-pan-brace/

 

Does MAZDA use a gasket (like the one that comes in the OEM gasket kit) or gasket material to seal the pan on NEW engines? Personally I wouldn’t keep that gasket if they used it with the new short/block. But I told the OP to get other input.

And if he adds a brace does it require re-sealing after removing the pan bolts?

 

my view is that you do not need to remove the oilpan if it was originally installed by Mazda but i do suggest you add an oilpan brace. you will not need to disturb the pan. remove the bolts, position the brace and use the new longer install bolts.no need to go near any silicone.buy an inch pound beam type torque wrench and torque them to 100 INCH pounds. you will also need longer motor mount bolts which accompany the brace. i suggest either Chips Motorsports (absolutely gorgeous design and execution) or IRP. i recommend and use both on my builds.

oilpan leaks occur because:

the oilpan is bent on removal and often not properly straightened
wrong silicone used.... only use Hondabond
motor filled with oil before the silicone is cured
rails not properly cleaned and prepared
improper torque

the primary drivers of leaks are the oil level is above the pan rails (as pointed out by cloud9) and gasoline entering the oil which effects improperly cured or improper brand of silicone.

see my thread Oilpan Tech here:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-tech-1039223/

for more info see the oilpan section of my Engine Build Section here:
ROTARY ENGINE BUILD

 

This is a new engine from Mazda unopened which detonated after 3500miles.
look at the oil seeping up.

 

^ Did it come with a pre-formed gasket or was it gasket maker?

 

rtv gasket maker.
which backs Howard up. I don’t see Mazda waiting 5 days for each sump to cure.

 

Agreed Howard. The new motors have no gasket and appear to have a different sealant than the older ones. I've had good results just installing the brace over the pans without removal too.

 

Great info everyone!!! Thanks very much!!!