oil pan gasket
#2
Rotary engine victory
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why do you want to change it to begin with? but yes all you have to do is take off the pan, scrape off the excess material on the block and on the pan, use some gasket sealer and put it all back together. but why?
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Originally Posted by KingCobraV9
why do you want to change it to begin with? but yes all you have to do is take off the pan, scrape off the excess material on the block and on the pan, use some gasket sealer and put it all back together. but why?
Ummm... yeah, from under the car, lossen the bolts just a bit. Then lift the motor from the tranny...ie jack the tranny up a bit to free the weight of the engine off the bolts from the mount. 21 small pan bolts. 3 Big bolts that attach the mount to the engine. One bolt under the mount (To remove the whole mount). When you put your gasket back on, make sure to apply a bead of gasket maker to the rim INSIDE the bolt holes. Then the gasket, then another bead. It will leak again if you tighten the small pan bolts too tight, I believe the torque specs are something like 7-10 lbs. I might be wrong, but I tightened mine with that screw driver tool that you can attach sockets to. The other 3 need to be tight, since they hold the engine.
Last edited by bigdv519; 02-01-05 at 10:49 PM.
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its a little hard getting to the bolts on the oil pan thats facing the front of the car. how did you get it bigdv? i tried useing a open wrench but it seems like the oil pan had a lil bent in it that pervents the wrench to be on the bolt fully
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Originally Posted by RoTa7
its a little hard getting to the bolts on the oil pan thats facing the front of the car. how did you get it bigdv? i tried useing a open wrench but it seems like the oil pan had a lil bent in it that pervents the wrench to be on the bolt fully
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Originally Posted by HeffBoost
We don't need no stinking pan gasket. An appropriate sized bead of silicone has treated me right twice so far. No leaks.
I think the majority of leaks is caused by an 'untrue' oil pan mating surface with the block. If there are any warps or bends, its gonna leak. I would think that if you overtighten the bolts with the gasket on there, your gonna bend it ever so slightly and it will slowly seep out.
Personally if I have to change it, I'll be buying a new pan, gasket and torque it to exact specifications.
#12
Keep Right Except to Pass
I think the majority of leaks is caused by an 'untrue' oil pan mating surface with the block.
I never torque anything close to that small. Who has a torque wrench that's accurate down there anyway?
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Originally Posted by HeffBoost
Excellent point. You've got to make sure the pan is straight.
I never torque anything close to that small. Who has a torque wrench that's accurate down there anyway?
I never torque anything close to that small. Who has a torque wrench that's accurate down there anyway?
#14
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Here's the problem with using a gaskett...... It settles...... The reasone that most of us don't use a gaskett is that the friggin cork ones will compress, and then you have to re-set all of the oil pan bolts or it will leak. If you get a rubber gaskett, you should be OK... If you have a cork one... don't even bother or it will leak again, real quick...
I've never had a problem just using a bead of the Grey RTV that comes with the engine kits!!!
I've never had a problem just using a bead of the Grey RTV that comes with the engine kits!!!
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