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I made a lot of research on the forum but I did not find one completed, so I taken a lot of info and I made a diagram, but I want to know if it's good before I'm starting wiring.
why do you say not to use the sensor ground? And if you don’t use the sensor ground, what do you do with that pin? Leave it? Wire it to chassis? Battery? I’ve been having issues with mine overheating so I was just curious.
why do you say not to use the sensor ground? And if you don’t use the sensor ground, what do you do with that pin? Leave it? Wire it to chassis? Battery? I’ve been having issues with mine overheating so I was just curious.
Theres no need for a signal ground from the ecu as the current transfer from the coils will interfere with more sensetive frequencies and signals.
all you need is 1x trigger, 3x ground to the same place, 1x power.
My 13b wiring has pin b c and d all together, and that goes to the engine block, with a good solid and thick ground from the block to the battery negative
Theres no need for a signal ground from the ecu as the current transfer from the coils will interfere with more sensetive frequencies and signals.
all you need is 1x trigger, 3x ground to the same place, 1x power.
My 13b wiring has pin b c and d all together, and that goes to the engine block, with a good solid and thick ground from the block to the battery negative
^This is absolutely WRONG and bad advice. While ganging all the 3 (pins b, c & d) together to a single engine block ground may actually be working for your car and specific ECU, it doesn't work in ALL cases or for all ECUs on the market. Follow the directions provided by the coil's maker - wire it in accordance with schematic below. Pin B goes to the ECU's sensor/signal ground (typically the same ground reference used by all +5VDC sensors and TTL level outputs), Pin D is your high current power ground, and Pin C grounds to the rotor housing for that coil's spark plug.
^This is absolutely WRONG and bad advice. While ganging all the 3 (pins b, c & d) together to a single engine block ground may actually be working for your car and specific ECU, it doesn't work in ALL cases or for all ECUs on the market. Follow the directions provided by the coil's maker - wire it in accordance with schematic below. Pin B goes to the ECU's sensor/signal ground (typically the same ground reference used by all +5VDC sensors and TTL level outputs), Pin D is your high current power ground, and Pin C grounds to the rotor housing for that coil's spark plug.
Ok Pete, fair point. I should have clarified what ecu this was being used with. My setup uses a haltech elite 1500, and upon clarification with haltech, it is not necessary in that particular application to use the signal ground.
Danny, what issues with overheating are you having? What kind of dwell/rpm are you using? Also what ecu?
Ok Pete, fair point. I should have clarified what ecu this was being used with. My setup uses a haltech elite 1500, and upon clarification with haltech, it is not necessary in that particular application to use the signal ground.
Danny, what issues with overheating are you having? What kind of dwell/rpm are you using? Also what ecu?
The coils have legit been overheating, to the point where they crack and ooze out the inside gel. It’s literally at start up/just idling. I am on adaptronic modular, which has been sent out to get bench tested. Everything is wired up correctly. A to trigger on ecu, b to signal ground (I’ve tried it on pin 4a, and 4d) same results, c is to rotor housings, d is straight to neg battery and e is straight to positive battery with a 20a fuse/relay. Dwell time is super conservative with nothing over 4ms. It’s happening when I put the key in the “on” position and the car isn’t even running to. Which is why we are believing the ecu ignition driver is bad.
The coils have legit been overheating, to the point where they crack and ooze out the inside gel. It’s literally at start up/just idling. I am on adaptronic modular, which has been sent out to get bench tested. Everything is wired up correctly. A to trigger on ecu, b to signal ground (I’ve tried it on pin 4a, and 4d) same results, c is to rotor housings, d is straight to neg battery and e is straight to positive battery with a 20a fuse/relay. Dwell time is super conservative with nothing over 4ms. It’s happening when I put the key in the “on” position and the car isn’t even running to. Which is why we are believing the ecu ignition driver is bad.
if the coils are powered and not firing/discharging then they can overheat, numerous coils on many engines and ecu's could suffer the same issue.
When I first did my harness I had the same issue until I wired the trigger for the relay to the coils power differently. However my issue was only during key on and engine off
what I did was:
pin 30 - 20a fused 12v supply
pin 87 - relay power supply
pin 86 - key/ignition on power
pin 85 - fuel pump negative switch/ecu output
this fixed it for me, but would be interesting to find out if a bad ignition output caused the problem.
if your wiring is the same/similar principal, to keep power off until the engine is cranking/running, it could even be as simple as a bad or intermittent crimp somewhere in the harness
^This is absolutely WRONG and bad advice. While ganging all the 3 (pins b, c & d) together to a single engine block ground may actually be working for your car and specific ECU, it doesn't work in ALL cases or for all ECUs on the market. Follow the directions provided by the coil's maker - wire it in accordance with schematic below. Pin B goes to the ECU's sensor/signal ground (typically the same ground reference used by all +5VDC sensors and TTL level outputs), Pin D is your high current power ground, and Pin C grounds to the rotor housing for that coil's spark plug.
frankly I’m surprised there wasn’t more screeching over grounding loops and such, seems to be a lot of variance in opinion, but the name and number listed in this thread is the best trusted source imo:
Aem Smart Coil
