Here are some pics of my baffle plates and trap doors I fabricated to go with my XS oil pan.

Also made a 5/8" oil pickup neck spacer. As far as you can go before hitting the oil pan sidewall. Currently the pick up is just under 3/4" away from the bottom of XS oil pan and not fully utilizing the extra depth.

More install pics later.

 

thats really nice fab work man.

what is exactly the point of the trap doors?

 

To slow down oil slosh when going into corners which prevents oil starvation.
The oil pickup will be submerged in oil even in long high G corners.

 

Actually it wouild be more like this if 2.5G was achieved (slick + aero, think Damien's car)

 

Another Picture with spacer.

 

Good work as always Adam.

 

How much if we wanted to purchase a setup like this, baffling, spacer trap door, everything???

 

Well, there are different ways of doing it. Example CrispyRX7 purchased traps doors from a BMW and made his setup. As far as cost are you asking what I would charge to do it?

Trap doors are out of a BMW E30 M3 baffled sump. They are called "non-return flaps" and run about $28 a pop. OEM Part # 11 13 1 309 428

 

Hmmm.... Looks kinda odd in a "non-return flap" setup.

 

Crispy set his baffle plates to clear the stock oil level sensor. He will be machining the side face of the pan to accept the stock sensor.

 

Another option is a piano hinge. I'm super paranoid about rivets and bolts on the inside of the pan, so I went with aluminum piano hinges from McMaster Carr, so they could be welded to the walls. I repineed the hinge with 3/32 stainless welding rod to make sure the hinge is able to swing freely (stock was 1/8th aluminum). I've seen some folks bend the pin in various ways to ensure the doors can only open a little more than 90 degrees so they don't get stuck all the way up. I tried several ways, and every one seemed to have the possibility of causing the hinge to stick. So, I just notched a relief in the mounting "wall" and flipped the hinge backwards. The "ears" at the base of the wall act as stoppers for the hinge to keep it from swinging backwards. The wall itself retains the pin, and the hinge acts as it's own stop, only allowing itself to open about 110 degrees. There is about a 1/16" gap between the bottom of the hinge and the pan floor to make sure that particulate or thermal expansion won't jam the doors closed. It's not possible in every case, but I read that the best configuration for the trap doors is in a diamond shape instead of a square. That way, each trap door will activate in two axis of motion instead of just one.

 

Nice, and what's up with the pimp ring??

 

Wife was out of town, so I thought I'd pamper myself with a bubble bath. One thing lead to another and I found myself wearing lipstick, a lacy thong, and the wifes jewelry. It just made me feel sexy......

 

 

 

what do you mean by a diamond shaped opening though? Pics?

 

Look at the pics and solidworks model here and I think it will make more sense. https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/1974-13b-re-nova-727207/page12/ The trap doors shouldn't be parallel with the back, sides, or front of the pan. They should be at 45 degree angles.

 

ahh ... gotcha ... interesting

 

Just want to say that I'm not knocking anybodys work at all! I hope I didn't come off as a know-it-all *******. I dig all three designs in this post. Each has it's respective strong points. Just passing along something I read one time. I'm sure the diamond thing is more academic than anything.