Buckey's Pro-Am Build: '87 Mazda RX7 TurboII
#401
\\TRASHTALK//
use mass amounts of a good top coat though
#405
just grabbed my spindles from forrest. hooked him up on a baller stainless Apex-i Exhaust.
i need to drop the lower balljoint, and extend it outwards still to help with clearance. going to spray these up tonight, and post more pics!
finally will be able to roll my car onto the trailer and take it to the new shop, and start cutting out the floor pan, and making it into a bro-truck.
i need to drop the lower balljoint, and extend it outwards still to help with clearance. going to spray these up tonight, and post more pics!
finally will be able to roll my car onto the trailer and take it to the new shop, and start cutting out the floor pan, and making it into a bro-truck.
#407
word! thanks playa! i'm going to give it a shot tomorrow when d'angelo's opens.
UPDATINGSSS:
you can never go wrong with Cusco Blue Metallic..
getting ready to throw the brakes on, and get it rolling so i can take it to the shop tomorrow and start cutting the back end off!
UPDATINGSSS:
you can never go wrong with Cusco Blue Metallic..
getting ready to throw the brakes on, and get it rolling so i can take it to the shop tomorrow and start cutting the back end off!
#410
thanks! tried taking my time this time with all the paint/prep. i still get lazy easily though lol
so i threw on everything.
i have a TON of angle left still. i didnt have anyone to hold the wheel AT lock.
the wheels were bottoming out on the front/rear frame rails (both sides turned each direction) so until i space them, thats all i have.
also i have cut PS tie rods, so i gotta pick up factory un-cut tierods to adjust my toe straight and that should make it better than Conrads Hankook Camaro.
the tierod end is practically on the rotor but not hitting.
i need to get either a 50mm bolton spacer for the front, or just stack 2 25's to get it to clear. (or buy wheels, but that's going on later)
once i get it running i'll post videos. i'm really excited to give these a try.
so i threw on everything.
i have a TON of angle left still. i didnt have anyone to hold the wheel AT lock.
the wheels were bottoming out on the front/rear frame rails (both sides turned each direction) so until i space them, thats all i have.
also i have cut PS tie rods, so i gotta pick up factory un-cut tierods to adjust my toe straight and that should make it better than Conrads Hankook Camaro.
the tierod end is practically on the rotor but not hitting.
i need to get either a 50mm bolton spacer for the front, or just stack 2 25's to get it to clear. (or buy wheels, but that's going on later)
once i get it running i'll post videos. i'm really excited to give these a try.
#411
That One Ghetto Guy.
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Orem, UT
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yo Buckey, I've got a pair of 50mm and a pair of 30mm ... if you want either or both pairs, let me know, $50/pair and they'll be in the mail.
Progress is looking good man. That is some killer angle.
Progress is looking good man. That is some killer angle.
#413
That One Ghetto Guy.
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Orem, UT
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe they're 12x1.50, I'll have to double-check ... had them on my Starion with Gorilla lugs. How many 25s do you have? We can work out a trade deal I think.
#420
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: philadelphia
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just grabbed my spindles from forrest. hooked him up on a baller stainless Apex-i Exhaust.
i need to drop the lower balljoint, and extend it outwards still to help with clearance. going to spray these up tonight, and post more pics!
finally will be able to roll my car onto the trailer and take it to the new shop, and start cutting out the floor pan, and making it into a bro-truck.
i need to drop the lower balljoint, and extend it outwards still to help with clearance. going to spray these up tonight, and post more pics!
finally will be able to roll my car onto the trailer and take it to the new shop, and start cutting out the floor pan, and making it into a bro-truck.
sorry for the quote but those are some sweet spindles
#421
haha random! lol that name is pretty uncommon, or so it seems anyways!
Goals for this week are to track down some aftermarket fuel rails, and figure out what to do as far as re-locating my lower balljoints outwards, or what to do about them..
search option on this forum shows nothing but forsale threads these days.
Goals for this week are to track down some aftermarket fuel rails, and figure out what to do as far as re-locating my lower balljoints outwards, or what to do about them..
search option on this forum shows nothing but forsale threads these days.
#422
Get more hot chicks going on in here.
I solved one problem for you:
http://www.risingrpm.com/products/pr...rail_set_a.asp
Ball joints are easy to do, get ready for STUPID amounts of camber though
I solved one problem for you:
http://www.risingrpm.com/products/pr...rail_set_a.asp
Ball joints are easy to do, get ready for STUPID amounts of camber though
either way i gotta pick some spare ball joints up, and i'll probably swindle your idea on lengthening them and try it out. i saw a photo of someone who lengthened it vertically also to clear the tierod.
i'll try to show pics in a few minutes.
thanks for the rail kit. i saw that and need to email them to see if i can get just the rails instead of that ugly *** oil block/fuel line holder deal.
#424
here's some photos of why i'm trying to relocate ****.
what to do about the angle of the tie-rods? should i mount the rack higher up almost to the frame rails? or should i have the spindles re-cut and lowered like haraguchi's 326power spindles?? easiest would be to mount the rack higher. *no im not raising the car. not an option*
as for the balljoint issue: should i lengthen it, and make spacers to drop it lower from the control arm mount to help with the tierod angle issues? obviously that will raise the front slightly, but the camber plates i got should fix that as the factory upper mount is 3" thick where the camber plates are about 1" at best.
this balljoint setup is what i was trying to ask about. the balljoint looks taller, and the bracket looks slightly lengthened.
what to do about the angle of the tie-rods? should i mount the rack higher up almost to the frame rails? or should i have the spindles re-cut and lowered like haraguchi's 326power spindles?? easiest would be to mount the rack higher. *no im not raising the car. not an option*
as for the balljoint issue: should i lengthen it, and make spacers to drop it lower from the control arm mount to help with the tierod angle issues? obviously that will raise the front slightly, but the camber plates i got should fix that as the factory upper mount is 3" thick where the camber plates are about 1" at best.
this balljoint setup is what i was trying to ask about. the balljoint looks taller, and the bracket looks slightly lengthened.