All about paint/body.. Kustom paint? Mega Flake? Shaved? post here!!
03-06-13, 08:32 AM
#480
im not the best painter but I first degrease everywhere a ton. Then pressurewash a ton. then hand sand with like 70 grit. every viewable inch. then do a thick primer then paint. then I usually add about 7 layers of clear.
this works for me but i dont do show car stuff. It looks alot better than spray paint. but looks like someone who doeant really know how to paint painted it.
this works for me but i dont do show car stuff. It looks alot better than spray paint. but looks like someone who doeant really know how to paint painted it.
04-30-13, 01:03 PM
#484
I don't. I bought the car with the moldings shaved and bought a set of replacement doors rather than dealing with cutting that added metal out again.
I'd probably use some 16-20ga sheet metal if I were going to do it myself.
I'd sell you my pre-shaved doors super cheap if you want them. They need body work in other areas but are already welded up.
I'd probably use some 16-20ga sheet metal if I were going to do it myself.
I'd sell you my pre-shaved doors super cheap if you want them. They need body work in other areas but are already welded up.
06-05-13, 08:32 PM
#490
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Wow thats rustoleum!?! It looks better than my single stage lol. Trying to clean up the interior of my car thinking about using some in there. Curious as to why it chipped? Did you paint it too fast/too thick? Anyone else rattle can their interior, what did you use?
06-06-13, 09:30 AM
#491
ive used rustoleum a bunch. If I were to use spray paint I wouldnt use anything else. just need to take your time and make sure it flows smooth and you cant tell its spray paint. until it chips.
06-07-13, 08:39 AM
#493
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ca few coats of clear would certainly help, but spray paint does not have much if any "hardener" in it that you would mix into real pain. thus when it heats up and cools down regularly it is a lot more prone to flake and chip. Primer will certainly help it adhere and make it easier to get a smooth finish though.
I have done quite a few rattle can jobs on panels that you would not even think twice where done by a spray can. But you get what you pay for in the long run.
I have done quite a few rattle can jobs on panels that you would not even think twice where done by a spray can. But you get what you pay for in the long run.
06-07-13, 11:19 AM
#494
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^ Thanks good info. Was just thinking if you don't clear it, it would probably be easy to touch up the areas that chip - just hit it again with the spray. Idk what I'll do yet, my car is half gutted (bought it that way), the front still has carpet, not sure whats under there (honestly not sure if I want to find out 
). Probably going to get the rest of it out sometime this summer. I think painting would obviously make it look cleaner and also offer a little more insurance against rust.
). Probably going to get the rest of it out sometime this summer. I think painting would obviously make it look cleaner and also offer a little more insurance against rust.
06-07-13, 12:03 PM
#495
if you use spray paint clear then you need to wait a few days for the spray color to dry all the way. then you need to a lot of light coats of the clear. You cannot lay it on thick or lay it on thick enough to let it "flow." 75% of the time the clear starts to wrinkle and ruin everything. its nothing like spraying real clear coat. but im an impatient guy so I have a hard time waiting. I would do a handful of larger test panels first.
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