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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 10:23 PM
  #476  
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Lots of good color ideas in here.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 11:07 PM
  #477  
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seems fixed now. 20 of 20.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 12:23 AM
  #478  
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Originally Posted by Don Nguyen
Lots of good color ideas in here.
now to decide which one to go with lol
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #479  
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how do you guys prep engine bays to be painted? sand every inch just like you would do the outside of a car? any tips?
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #480  
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im not the best painter but I first degrease everywhere a ton. Then pressurewash a ton. then hand sand with like 70 grit. every viewable inch. then do a thick primer then paint. then I usually add about 7 layers of clear.

this works for me but i dont do show car stuff. It looks alot better than spray paint. but looks like someone who doeant really know how to paint painted it.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:33 AM
  #481  
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for you guys with shaved your molding how did you do it?
just a **** load of filler
or weld in a piece of sheetmetal then filler over it
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 07:10 AM
  #482  
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Originally Posted by spencababy
for you guys with shaved your molding how did you do it?
just a **** load of filler
or weld in a piece of sheetmetal then filler over it
My car was previously shaved. The doors have metal welded in and every other piece that had molding was fiberglass so that got filled with Bondo/glass.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #483  
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do you happen to know how thick the metal is by any chance
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 01:03 PM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by spencababy
do you happen to know how thick the metal is by any chance
I don't. I bought the car with the moldings shaved and bought a set of replacement doors rather than dealing with cutting that added metal out again.

I'd probably use some 16-20ga sheet metal if I were going to do it myself.

I'd sell you my pre-shaved doors super cheap if you want them. They need body work in other areas but are already welded up.
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Old May 1, 2013 | 11:47 AM
  #485  
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Use 18-20g and weld slow bounce around with the spots otherwise you will warp
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Old May 7, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #486  
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has anyone ever tried to modify a fc2000 bumper to work the flip up head lights i love to see what that would look like
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Old May 27, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #487  
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I'm looking to possibly buy some knockoff bn. Where can I find it?
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Old May 27, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by wankle1
I'm looking to possibly buy some knockoff bn. Where can I find it?
Seriously anywhere.

I usually rock the extreme dimensions knock off stuff
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Old May 28, 2013 | 10:03 AM
  #489  
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mine is an ait kit
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #490  
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Originally Posted by p0tat0s
first rattle can paint job i did on the engine bay. needed paint because of rust and brake master cylinder leaked all over the place. rustoleum brilliant blue kinda like the same color as painters tape ended up being really shitty since it chipped like crazy.
Wow thats rustoleum!?! It looks better than my single stage lol. Trying to clean up the interior of my car thinking about using some in there. Curious as to why it chipped? Did you paint it too fast/too thick? Anyone else rattle can their interior, what did you use?
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #491  
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ive used rustoleum a bunch. If I were to use spray paint I wouldnt use anything else. just need to take your time and make sure it flows smooth and you cant tell its spray paint. until it chips.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:25 PM
  #492  
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is there anything you can do to keep it from chipping? would priming or clear coat help? or is it just due to the fact that its cheap paint?
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 08:39 AM
  #493  
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ca few coats of clear would certainly help, but spray paint does not have much if any "hardener" in it that you would mix into real pain. thus when it heats up and cools down regularly it is a lot more prone to flake and chip. Primer will certainly help it adhere and make it easier to get a smooth finish though.

I have done quite a few rattle can jobs on panels that you would not even think twice where done by a spray can. But you get what you pay for in the long run.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:19 AM
  #494  
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^ Thanks good info. Was just thinking if you don't clear it, it would probably be easy to touch up the areas that chip - just hit it again with the spray. Idk what I'll do yet, my car is half gutted (bought it that way), the front still has carpet, not sure whats under there (honestly not sure if I want to find out ). Probably going to get the rest of it out sometime this summer. I think painting would obviously make it look cleaner and also offer a little more insurance against rust.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:03 PM
  #495  
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if you use spray paint clear then you need to wait a few days for the spray color to dry all the way. then you need to a lot of light coats of the clear. You cannot lay it on thick or lay it on thick enough to let it "flow." 75% of the time the clear starts to wrinkle and ruin everything. its nothing like spraying real clear coat. but im an impatient guy so I have a hard time waiting. I would do a handful of larger test panels first.
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 03:31 PM
  #496  
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^ Thanks will keep that in mind if I decide to go that route.
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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 09:37 AM
  #497  
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Finally got to paint some oft own stuff today fresh brakes, pulleys and a few other things.


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