GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

Here is the very unique, best solution to install the famous 20B into a 3rd gen FD3S.

Pricing-
Full conversion, TIG welded steel motor mounts base kit- $1,670.00
Full conversion, TIG welded steel motor mounts retain a/c and p/s deluxe kit $2070
Optional color anodizing of aluminum parts- + $150.00
Modify stock 20B intake + $350.00

Common questions-

Q: How is this kit different from regular 20B subframe kits?
A:This is not a subframe replacement. You retain your factory subframe, and not a single modification to the stock subframe is made. The steering rack is not moved and that is the most important difference. This allows NO bump-steer. Since all the OEM parts are used, no danger of weak welds, or mis-alignment occurs.

Q: Can I keep the stock transmission, and will the transmission stay in its factory place?
A: Yes, the factory transmission is retained, and not moved from stock. This means no cutting of the PPF frame is made, thus making a much safer 20B powered Rx-7.

Q:Can I keep my air conditioning?
A: We now offer a version that keeps the a/c, and will work with turbo and non-turbo 20b's

Q:Can I keep my power steering?
A: Yes the kit is made to use all 93-95 accessories, and power steering.

Q: Can I use the factory 20B intake manifold?
A: Yes, but it must be sent in to Defined Autoworks to be sectioned and lowered, to clear the hood.

Q: Can I still use this kit with the factory twin turbo's, and large single turbo's?
A: Yes, both stock and single will work just fine. Just specify during ordering if its a twin turbo.

Q: Will this kit work on Right Hand Drive cars as well?
A: Yes, it will work just fine with Right Hand Drive.

Q: Why not just use the 13B rear plate on the 20B, and FD engine mounts?
A: This 13b rear plate method will not solve any problems of mounting a 20B. The 13B iron will need ported, and machined to work with the 20B. Then add to the fact it will use the weaker FD engine mounts, why go through the hassle? Our mounts are FAR stronger, bolt onto a all stock 20B, and drops into the factory subframe. This mean no teardowns are needed, and less work/aggriavation results.

Q: If this kit is so good, why does everyone else do it differently?
A:Good question

Q:What do I need to send in to be modified?
A: The Steering rack, P/S bracket, 20B oil pan, Alternator tensioner(only for base kit), 20B intake manifold.

Q: What is the turn-around time of the kit?
A: Once we receive all the items, it will take 3-8 weeks.

Pictures of the blue anodized kit. Note alternator location, and the new tensioner. And the machined waterpump outlet.



Picture of the new deluxe kit, which keeps a/c and p/s.



Tig welded motor mounts, with twin turbo provision. Shown with the now standard delrin mounts, and grade 8 hardware.





Machined tensioner, and ball bearing idler pulley. Grade 8 bolts and hardware. Anodized blue option.



Modified factory 20b oil pan, with anti-sludge coatings, and new drain plug in the new location.




Just a few tensioners in three color styles. More colors are available.



The modified p.s bracket with alternator relocation.

nkeehn

you should probably include pictures or a link here or something...

BTW, excellent work on that

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

The modified p.s rack. Fitting is relocated, and aluminum boss clearanced, as well as the U-clamps.



The 20b conversion with a/c and p/s deleted. This mounts alternator only. Shown with black anodized options.



Rear shot of the engine sitting on a FACTORY subframe. You can see the perfect fit of the mounts and oil
pan.


Side shot of the engine with the factory subframe and steering rack. Note the engine being less than 1/8th of a inch from the top of the steering rack. This is as low as you can go and not move the rack.



Top angle shot of the engine on the factory subframe, to show how the mounts work.

S14.3BRE

Check it out the pictures are finaly UP

7envy

iTrader: (1)

Sweeeeeeeeeeet! Damn that looks so good. I would almost feel bad putting that work of art into an engine bay... get greasy and dirty after a couple miles

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Is it required to relocate the alternator to clear the lowered intake manifold or can the alternator be left in the original spot?

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

Only 6 years until the '93 falls under the 20year smog exemption.

Please be selling this in 6 years!

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

The alternator hits the hood, the full factory hood that is. I am pretty sure it will hit even if the bracing is cut out. And that was when the alternator was fully lowered! The stock waterpump outlet hits the hood as well, thus the reason for a compact machined one.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

You should get one now, just to be sure in 6 years!

dubulup

Excellent thread showing your kit!

question: how can a NA 20B keep A/C.

again very nice work

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

I tell you what, when i have $2000 burning a hole in my pocket and no more parts for my 2 rotor to buy this will be the first thing on my list.

I wish i could afford to buy it and have it at home so i could lust over it daily for 6 years!

FD3UK

Will this kit work on a RHD car?

rx7rich

Looks good. I will contact you with afew questions, Wed...Rich

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

By placing the alternator below the waterpump, on the left hand side. On a turbo 20B, this space is needed for the turbo.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

Yep, this will work fine on Rhd.

SPEED_NYC

iTrader: (3)

can we get some pictures of a modified lower intake and some pics of this kit installed in a car?

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

I have pictures of the original prototype kit on my car, but I hate showing it due to how messy everything was. I will have some new pictures of all of it in my personal car once again in about two weeks. There are many that have bought my kit, but they are not completed to my knowledge, so no pics of their cars yet. I also dont have any pics of the modified lower intake, but will very soon.

gorockrx

I am curious if you could fit the alternator in the place of the power steering, and then be able to mount the A/C in the stock location? Has that been tried....

Looks like it would take a lot of work though....

Don't need PS as much as A/C ...

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

I forgot to mention that, it looks possible and I am making a version with this modification. Check back in about a week, there should be some pics.

OneEvilRx7

very good job.

dclin

iTrader: (4)

Are the brackets included to put the alternator there, or does one have to fab it? A/C is a must have where I live. Absolutely refuse to drive a car without hahaha!

Just out of curiosity, is the idler pulley for the water pump/alternator really neccesary? (or did you relocate the alternator to run off the power steering belt like I'm thinking, in which case can I ditch the factory idler puller next to the power steering pulley?) I'd like to get rid of anything that isn't neccessay.

Anything new on the ITB intake manifold? Not sure how well the stock intake manifold would do with a NA setup - what do you think? Looking for a streetable setup.

Thanks!

Daniel

wptrx7

I am not looking to go 20b (in the middle of LSx swap), but this is by far the best thread ever on this forum. I really like how you executed the presentation of your items for sale. Very well done, if I ever do go 20b or know of someone, I will send them to this thread.

Good luck, I hope everything turns out well for you,
Luigi

dclin

iTrader: (4)

N/M, I just saw a pic of your old setup, everything is clear to me now. I imagine that it's better to adust the belt using the idler next to the power steering pulley, than using the alternator bracket.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...3&d=1159763885

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

The intake manifold has taken much longer to get finished for production than I was expecting. With any luck, and more time to work on it, I may have it ready in a couple months. The stock manifold works well for lots of bottom end, but power production seems to be limited to 240-260rwhp.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

Thank you very much for the complements!! And I appreciate your support.