Nice setup,we met up at Quaker Steak and Lube and it seems your shop is coming up in the world,Carl.

 

Right, that would be helpful Total weight was 2630lbs with half a tank w/o me in it. With me IN it, 1399lbs front, and 1390lbs rear. Broke down; LF- 729lbs , RF- 670lbs, LR- 710 , RR- 680. The 20B sits 1.5" higher than the stock 13B. No clearance issues at all with the tranny tunnel. Yes a strut brace can still be run, but I do not know exactly which ones, as I made the one for mine custom. Hope that helps!

 

I have a engineer working with a very nice CAD program, and is doing stress analysis on them right now. They definitely are very stout, and will give the performance numbers once that is completed. A street-port 20B with a well made custom intake, and well made header can get over 350rwhp.

 

Thanks Carl, we are doing our best, and its coming along good so far! Let me know if you need any work for that clean FD

 

i thought usually most 20b swappers try to get 400+ hp at least =X
WEll USUALLY...

if they already decided to go 20b... why stay below 400 =P

 

ok my apologies... i guess to rephrase my sentence, how much hp does a 20b provide? just stock alone tuned to max performance

 

We are speaking of naturally aspirated. A very reliable 13b n/a is not ever going to get near 350+rwhp and be streetable. A 20B n/a is great for someone who likes the idea of 89 octane, simplicity, and no worries of low gas tank levels, and yield good responsive power. But its just a option for some, not ultra- high power guys.


With stock twins and stock engine, its very debatable. Most seem to agree 400ish rwhp with stock twins is at the upper limit of power.

 

Ooooooo i always thought a 20b was a 2litre rotary engine, that needed moe care and probably at least 91 octane too =O

im curious though... do different brands of gas, at 91 octane level, give u guys different mileages??

 

If you are keeping it stock with the twin turbo's, or upgraded to a single turbo, then yes 91+ is definitely needed. Its only when custom converted to n/a can they run 87-89 octane. They are 2 liters as well. I never tried 87 to see the difference in mileage, it would be so small anyway.

 

The higher the octane rating, the more it resists detonation do to high cylinder pressure and temperature (i.e. boost). If you are not boosting the engine then 87 octane is safe to use and actually recommended on rotary engines because the slower flame travel speed of the low octane fuel works for the rotarys longer path that the rotor travels. The only reason to use high octane is to fight detonation and not for high HP. If you are not have problems with detonation then use the lowest octane you can. All boosted engine need high octane because the turbo heats the air more and pressurizes it to the point the detonation on low octane.

 

which piece is the Alternator tensioner? is it the part that is circled in the pic?

 

Yep, that is the tensioner bracket.

 

Logan, I PM'd you. I need some information.

Thanks buddy,

Rizwan

 

Any updates (pictures) of the modified intake manifold? Also I gather you are removing a chunk of the oil pan for fitment, any idea how much oil space you are losing? (1 quart, 1/2 quart).

Looks great though.

Thanks,
Jonathan

 

No new pics yet, the oil pan mod removes 1/3 a quart of oil from full capacity.

 

Keep us updated on the FC kit bud... You have done some really great things with a 3 rotor N/A and gave me a real amount of inspiration for what I would like to do with my personal vehicle... Thanks

- Chris

 

Hey Logan,

Just wanted to drop in and say I'm thoroughly impressed with this kit. Very nice all throughout.

~Ramy

 

>>Q:What do I need to send in to be modified?
A: The Steering rack, P/S bracket, 20B oil pan, Alternator tensioner, 20B intake manifold.

Do we still need to send in the steering rack if it has been converted to a full manual system? I am talking a hard conversion, not the 'loop the lines' conversion. My steering rack no longer has the lines/fittings a stokc one has.

 

I can answer that for you Damian. It would be a "Yes!" I had mine fully converted as well and then sent off directly to Logan to further modify.

 

Str8ryd - do you have your 20b bolted up etc?

I am interested in this kit and wanted some feedback from a customer... I saw the turnaround time was listed around 3-6 weeks.. however, you're local so I was curious how it was for you?

Thanks

 

Any pictures of the modified LIM or complete engine in and out of a car yet and are you ready to start shipping part at this time? I really like what I've seen so far and just need a little more info and pictures.

 

Any chance of a GB?

Will you ever offer the ability to keep AC & PS with a single turbo 20b?

 

I do not see how to do it at this time, with the exception of using a denso race alternator up top, it might clear. But its only 60 amps.

 

Pictures are a little ways off, I need to grab a stock intake to modify. All parts can be made and shipped at any time

 

Wanklin was apparently working on integrating a variable speed electric PS pump from an MR2. Maybe you can integrate this in to your kit, and relocate the AC to where you currently have the PS.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=692287