vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

For anyone looking for the other project threads:
Project Naomi I : New Project on an Old Favourite
Project Naomi II : Giant Rotisserie Pictures Update
Project Naomi III : End of Summer 2010 Update
Project Naomi IV : Almost Off The Rotisserie
Project Naomi V : Finally PAINT!
Project Naomi VI : IT LIVES!
Project Naomi VII : Coming Home

-----

Hey All,

I visited ClassicAuto on the weekend and snapped some 35+ pics of the car as it is right now on the rotisserie. They've stripped the car but haven't started removing the paint, grit and grime from it yet, so this is a great set of pictures showing the base shell that they have to work with.

For a 26yr old Canadian FB, I think she fared pretty well up to this point.

First off, shots of the car from the outside, walking around it as it sits on the rotisserie







The view in through the passenger's door




Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Some pictures of the Right-Side wheel well rust. It loks pretty bad, but none of it perforated straight through. Chances are that after sandblasting it'll be so thin that we'll want to cut-and-weld new metal anyway, but it looks like I caught it at a decent time - before it actually broke through and caused structural damage.




Some pictures of the inside looking in at various angles




And some pictures of the passenger-side wheel well rust - not as bad off as the driver's side but was definitely pretty bad.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

It's hard to see in these pictures, but the floor area on both sides is pushed upwards - the car was jacked from under the floors ages ago before I knew what "load bearing jacking points" were - let's just say I figured that one out the hard way. There's a good pic of it later



Other than the jack damage to the floors, they look to be in fairly good shape, no major floor rust to speak of, which is the same for the vast majority of the rest of the interior.

More pictures of the interior - we've got the rear hatch are, the area under where the dash would be, the roof liner area, a view in through the back hatch, and the driver's door

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Doors also look to be in good shape, and we got two more pics of the front/floor area but fron the passenger's side this time





I took some detail shots while standing in the engine bay to get a good look at the bits of rust there. Mainly it's concentrated in the front area where the battery sits, but there are marks of it along seams in some of the other spots

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Here's the other side of the engine bay close up shots and one of the hood itself





Both my entire front and rear steering/suspension assemblies were together on the ground beside the car so I snapped some shots of those.

You can see the RB springs, KYB shocks, RB sway bars and ReSpeed Steering Kit.




The entire rear end is going to be replaced with the rear end out of a parts car I got this weekend that's a GSL Yay for rear discs and Limited-Slip Diff!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

When the suspension goes back on, it'll be going on with a full set of poly bushings (I'm getting the "full kit" from ReSpeed). With all brand new bushings, Rear Discs, new SS Brake Lines, the ReSpeed Steering kit and existing suspension upgrades, this car is going to drive like a dream.



Here's a good close-up pic of the jack damage on one side. Definitely not good.



Here's a look down the transmission tunnel. I didn't take many underside pics because my cell phone camera sucks without enough light and there wasn't much to see. We'll see more of it once the sandblasting is done.



I snapped this one pic of the driver's side door. Under the paint we have some pink bondo-like substance showing, meaning there's been body work on this door before of unknown quality. Also, a small rust spot that was hidden by the rubber moldings.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

So as I mentioned, I also bought a parts car on the weekend. I didn't snap any pictures of it because when I got to Dundas it was pouring rain. I just basically took a quick look, made sure that the bumper, valance, passenger's fender and inner door panels were good, then gave the guy the cash, signed the bill of sale, grabbed the key and left. Here's the for-sale thread for it though:

https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-sale-wanted-classifieds-120/85-fb-parts-car-895571/

I still have to look at the wiring diagram to figure out how hard it's going to be to swap the power window setup from the GSL parts car into mine, so that I can use the door panels. I know that the motors are in the doors and the switches are in the centre, but I don't know if my wiring harness on my GS already has the un-used connectors that I just snap into, or if I'm going to have to splice into my harness. I'm not about to pull the dash on the GSL just for the power windows, so I may have to rig something up.

Other upgrades I'm getting from the GSL as I mentioned are the entire rear end (it's an '85 with rear discs and an LSD, mine is an '84 with drums and an open diff, should swap right in). I've bought a set of Stainless Steel brake lines along with the parts I ordered from Black Dragon for the "with rear discs" set, and all new bushings from ReSpeed, so I should be good.

Other things I've ordered
- Black carpet set from stockinteriors.com - "Ultra Plush" with "Mass Backing" and an extra yard of it for the spots where it needs it like between the dash centre console and the transmission tunnel
- 80sq ft of "Damplifier Pro" Sound Deadening material to be used to cover as much of the interior as possible as well as 36sq ft of "Luxury Liner Pro" which is a sound absorbing material that goes over top of the deadener to absorb any sound that is bouncing around in the car.
- All new rubber for the doors and windows, run channels, weatherstripping, etc...

This week I have to order new discs for the rear, Hawk pads all around, and a replacement for the set of Racing Beat rear end links that I bent, as well as all the connectors and wire I'm going to need to re-do the wiring harness.

This project is really starting to look like it's moving! Let's hope we can keep up the pace.

Jon

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Excellent, looks like when its all said and done you will have a show room car.

Hope you still autocross.

Bass

All of the wiring should be good to go. The hardest part was changing the window regulators over. But even that wasnt' too bad. I did the swap into my S model years ago. It was plug-n-play all the way!

What colour are you going with?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I'll keep the update pics flowing Jon. I'm going to do some of the major patch work before the blasting to get it out of the way. Any other little spots that don't stand the sandblsting test will get done once its epoxied/before bedliner.

Boy, whoever took that car apart managed to put the bolts back in the holes they belong to......that should save alot of messing around when it goes back together........



Hope you had a safe drive back!

Ka Kui

iTrader: (36)

Keep update us man~

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Yeah it's going to look great but that won't stop me from driving it, and with all the upgrades (like the rear discs and Limited Slip) I can't wait to get this thing back out amongst the pylons! I will be putting less mileage on it than I did before because it used to be my summer season daily driver. Now the Mazda6 takes that role and the Rx7 will just be for weekend fun and autocross.

The Mazda6 just clicked over 10,000km on the way back from ClassicAuto this past weekend. I bought it April 15th so if you do the math, if I were to keep up this pace I'd do 40k km in its first year! I probably won't hit that, but I do have a trip to Halifax coming up the first week of August so that will help

Good to know that it shouldn't be a pain. I figure that the regulators wire up to the switches in the centre, then all those need is an ignition positive feed and it should be done. My only concern was whether my GS had the connector in the centre for it already. I don't mind getting Joe to pull up carpet for wires, that's easy, but pulling a dash to run a harness is a royal pain in the ***, so if I can avoid having to get him to pull the whole dash out of the GSL that'd be good.

It's going back to its stock colour, Sunbeam Silver. I'm going for a completely black/silver monochrome theme all around, inside, outside and in the engine bay. A few changes to the interior are that the carpet will be black, the dash and seatbacks will be dyed black, and the centre console pieces will be a slightly duller version of body colour (silver).

I actually did notice the bolts in their holes! You'd almost think whoever did that had done this before somewhere

I've added yet another car to the list of cars that I've seen come from your shop looking awesome. On the way down I stopped to pick up something that I bought from Charn like three years ago and got to see his Stormy Blue FD. Nice Job, engine bay and everything, looks great.

Did the rubber moldings survive being removed? Hopefully between my car, the existing parts car, and the new GSL parts car we can get a decent set. If not I'll order the missing bits as needed.


Joe's already got this info, but for everyone else:

Just put in a few more parts orders. Only two more to go. So far I've ordered

- Carpet Set from Stockinteriors.com
- Sound Proofing (in two shipments, Damplifier Pro first because they had it in stock and Luxury Liner later when they get it) from Wheel Class
- Door Rubbers and SS Brake Hoses from BlackDragon
- Brake Discs and Hawk Pads from Mazdatrix
- Poly Bushing Kit from ReSpeed

So the only things I'm missing are:
- Rear End Links from Racing Beat
- Connectors, spades and wire for the wiring harness

I bought a set of Racing Beat front and rear sway bars about 2 years ago and bent the end links on them. They were much better than stock end links so I've emailed them to see if they'll sell me a set of end links on their own. They don't list them separately on their website.

I still haven't opened up the box with my wiring harness in it yet. I'll probably do that tomorrow night and start peeling the old tape off it, tracing and labeling wires and connectors, and figuring out how many of what type of connectors, spades and colours/types of wire I'll need.



Jon

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Oh..good luck with the Retaping of that harness.
God,that has to be th most Tedious boring job I have ever Done on a car,.,
like watching Dryer lint form!

IAN

iTrader: (3)

Cool. Might make my way down soon to see it in person. Nice project....

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

sweet!

I can't wait to be doing this to my GTR.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

Did you get the motor fixed on your GTR Terrh?, To the Op what are the motor plans?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Engine plans are at least a year off, but it's going to be a heck of a franken-engine

13b built with:
- S5 N/A Rotors
- TII 4-port Irons, Street Ported
- Any S4 or S5 rotor housings
- Renesis E-shaft and Stat Gears
- GSL-SE Oil Pan
- 12a Front Cover

So it's got parts from every generation (including the rx8) except for the FD.

I'll be giving it a lightweight steel flywheel, a good clutch (haven't chosen it yet), converting to FMOC, and running an FC CAS and coils with a Megasquirt in ignition-only mode because I'm not converting to FI, I'll be staying carb'd.

I also plan to do a few little upgrades, like an OMP Adapter with a 2-stroke reservoir.

Initially, I'm going to have an adapter fabbed up so I can mount my Sterling and ported manifold up to it. The math says that a Sterling should be able to supply enough air/fuel for a ported 13b, so we'll see what kind of numbers we end up with when we get on the dyno and tune it.

I don't know how realistic it is, but what I'd really like to see for numbers is basically double the flywheel hp of a stock 12a. I will likely have to go FI to make that happen, but I'm not prepared to make that jump yet, so I'm going to squeeze everything I can out of tuning a carb'd setup and if I end up in the neighborhood of 160rwhp I'll be quite happy with it.

Jon

Buggy

iTrader: (8)

You should be pretty happy with that engine setup. That's pretty much the same engine I built for my Rx-4. Throw a FD oil pressure regulator to bump up your oil pressure and then you'll have parts from every generation in there.

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Word, best $25 bucks you can spend on an oil system.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Consider it done. Ultimate FrankenEngine with parts from every generation

It'll be head and shoulders above the old borderline-compression 12a that's still chugging away under my hood right now, that's for sure. It's running 7.0kg/cm2 at 500rpm on all chambers, which according to the FSM is right on the "if you go below this line you should rebuild" line... And yet I'm still pushing 105rwhp (it had 101 flywheel hp stock!) because of the Sterling, the Ported Manifold, and the Racing Beat "Street Port" exhaust setup!

Jon

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

rx8 rotors!! Why use the megasquirt just for ignition? Could do the same job with a regular Dizzy no?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Rx8 rotors have apex seals that are half the depth of normal ones, they're not meant to be used with a peripheral exhaust port. In a very short period of time they'd crack right up the middle from the stress and be useless. That, and the side seals are in a different location that's meant to be used with the modified shape of the RENESIS engine's side ports. With normal (and especially ported) TII intake ports, the side seals would fly right out the intake.

In short, Rx8 rotors are for the Rx8... But the shaft and stat gears are fair game The shaft is lightened and the stat gears are hardened from the factory

You can't run a megasquirt off a distributor... Well it might be possible some how but you probably wouldn't want to, as the CAS gives much more accurate timing. Sure you can rig something up to run a 2nd gen Leading coil and a pair of normal first gen trailing coils off the distributor without the MS, but then you don't get fine-grained control of the spark advance curve. The MS + CAS + FC Coils is the best way to get a fully direct-fire ignition with a programmable spark curve. You can pick up quite a few hp just by tweaking your timing, especially when you're comparing to stock.

As for "why run a megasquirt just for ignition?" it's because I don't have any fuel injectors to control, so that whole part of it is useless to me. I'm not about to change my tank, my pump and regulator, and add a whole bunch of new parts and complexity to the engine just to switch to FI... I'll run carb for now because it's simple, it's mechanical, it's what I have and I think I can do fairly well with it. The added bonus of course is that if I decide to go FI in the future, I'm already halfway there.

Jon

DiscoQuinn

Pull up the sound deadening, you'll be surprised if you don't.

j_man1100

iTrader: (5)

One day I want to have a beer with you. I have been trying to research something similar for my 12app motor for the RX3. I don't know the megasquirt well so if I could pick your brain on it one day I would appreciate it.

Thanks
Jordan

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Or do it for free: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/shimoil.htm

That's not quite true...You can mill the RX-8 rotors down a bit to fit the taller earlier apex seals, and the side seals do fine on older housings. HOWEVER, I agree that it would be a big waste of time. No one has shown any real gains from running the RX-8 rotors, including Mazdatrix.

If you trigger the Megasquirt from the dizzy, you would only have leading timing control. But, you can trigger it off the dizzy and run it for fuel only. So your plan to use the CAS and FC coils is the way to go if you want Megasquirt timing control....and then it will only be 4 more wires when you decided to run EFI anyway. You're adding all the other sensors anyway to control ignition.