Car is an 88 GXL.
I spent the weekend playing on the track, at the end of four or five laps my power steering wouldn't be working so well, when I pull off the track and check it the fluid seems to have spilled out of the fill tube and the level is way down. I top it up and run again after letting the car cool, and it does it again.
Is this a case of power steering overheating and boiling over? Or do I have another issue that I should be investigating?
I'm also having a problem bleeding the system. I fill the resevoir up and rotate the wheels lock to lock a few times but it still feels like there is a bubble in the system somewhere. How can I properly get it out?

Thanks for any advice.

 

The power steering pump is cavatating. Meaning, you are spinning the pump faster than it was designed to turn. You either need a bigger pully to slow it down, or dont sustain high rpm. Thats why our race car has a manual rack not power.

 

hmmm, thanks.
How's the manual rack for pit speed driving? Will I be able to easily live with de-powering my power rack and still drive around town?

 

I drive a 15:1 ratio rack around town, but I'm told that motal people can't do it. I guess its something you get used to.

 

I like the way the car feels with disabled PS. Some people don't. Although parking is heavy, anything over 3 MPH is quite reasonable.

The difference between removing the fanbelt and doing the full gutting of the power steering rack is small. Probably most people couldn't tell the difference.

You could just remove the belt for your track days. The weight penalty of a non-functioning pump is very small.

The next easiest thing to do is to simply remove the pump, pipes, and fluid and then plug the ports on the rack (making a recirculating hose isn't really necessary and it's a pain in the *** to build) Oh yeah, and unplug the PS controller.

ed

 

With the manual rack it is not that bad. If you disconnect the power steering pump on a power steering rack it is beyond a bitch to drive even at speed. I drove a car a couple of years ago like that and it was hard on the arms and shoulders. Just my opinion.

 

Have a look in the 2nd gen archives and you'll find a thread there that I wrote where I go over how to properly disable the power steering.

I've driven it without power steering for quite a while now and I would do it again in an instant. It's a little heay when you're going really slow (like parking), but once your rolling it's fine. I've autocrossed a bunch with it and it's ok for that. I haven't been to the track since I did it, but I suspect it'll be fine. I've got the slower PS rack, so it's a little easier than with your faster rack. I find it easier to be smooth on my inputs without it and it's easier to maintain a smooth line. It also gives better road feel, so you know what your front tires are doing.

It will be easier to steer if you properly remove all the PS components, instead of just removing the belt.

 

I've had Manual and Power steering But NOT Depowered.I like Power in town.And Manual On the highway.But The Other Way around,NO.The only reason I have Power Steering now is because of my back(easier to manuever),But I would take the Manual,Over Depowered due to the fact that You know Nothing further will "go" on it(no more hoses or Fluid to check,etc)

 

Well when it first spat out all the fluid I didn't have any with me so I ran the rest of Saturday with the belt removed. My lap times were faster with the belt on.
Sunday it was OK as I kept the fluid topped up, but it's still heavy for some reason. In between normal and with the belt off. The pump isn't making any funny noises so I don't think anything is fubar'd.

 

- as people have mentioned, a manual rack is probably better than the stock FC power steering for track use, however the only problem is the ratio is higher on the manual rack. so where the power steering rack on your car is 15.2:1, the manual racks are 20:1. effectively with the manual rack you will need more turns of the steering wheel for the same amount of steering change. Mazda did this so it would reduce the effort needed to turn with the manual rack. it is interesting to note that Mazda stated the manual rack as being EASIER to turn than the power steering rack...wierd

- i personally think the best solution is what Black91n/a has done. read it in the archives here:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/

 

Thanks for the links and info.
Right now I am trying to get the PS to work again...
It feels like it's not working at all. The belt is on and has correct tension. The system has fluid, and I've tried to bleed it by turning the wheel left - right - left - right numerous times both with the car running and not. It's not making any difference.
I think I should drain the system and start over with totally fresh fluid.
Thoughts?
Shouldn't I be able to burp any air bubbles by turning the wheels in both directions?

 

the PS racks/pumps can get damaged, it could be that. you can try replacing the fluid and see if that helps, but if you do have fluid in there it should be working at least OK, so it shouldn't be something with the fluid.
"heavy" steering can be caused by quite a few things.
get a service manual (FSM) online and it has a troubleshooting guide you can go through.

 

You can also try using some Lucas power steering additive, it will help seal up some of the leaks, however there is only so much it can do.... I have heard only good things about it.

 

There are no leaks in normal driving.
... searching for online FSM now ...

 

http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html

 

Manual racks are very hard to find if you think you might consider going that route. I have a three port P/S rack and pump if you need. If you cavitated your pump long enough, you could have damaged it.

 

you can actually buy them new from Victoria British...if you really feel like spending 200+ for it of course.

 

Last night I drained the pump and the system, then took the belt off and went for a drive. It feels the same as it did before I drained it...

 

start going through the FSM troubleshooting i guess. there are even other things, for example in the suspension, that can cause "heavy" steering, so it might not necessarily be your pump and/or rack.