I got my plugs through a group buy on this site....I honestly don't know where to get those racing NGK plugs. They were pricey too....a little ashamed to say what I paid lol

I only have 2 sets of those though. Going to try autolites after I burn those up. I run stock 9's when I'm just driving around though. Stock 9's will be inthe car when I take it down south....

 

Lets see who can make it the farthest on a tank of gas

 

I do have a portable wideband. It's an older PLX M-200 with a new NTK L1H1 sensor. I was bringing up the question for those that are considering purchasing a unit. I strongly recommend that you guys do not use any w/b unit that has a Bosch sensor because it sucks.

I also recommend stock wires and non-platinum plugs. Sorry, Ian

B

 

The BUR7EQ's sitting in the leading will have to be swapped out with BUR9EQ's.

B

 

Stick to the stock BUR9EQ's for yours unless you plan on running really really high power levels past 400. If you're aiming to do that, get yourself a set of R6725105's at $25US ea. That'll be used on big boost, dyno/race day. Do NOT use a non-resistor plug for your car, Joe.

B

 

I think I mis-read your post, Joe -- That plug might work.

I don't like the wires nor do I like the AEM w/b but that's your call. I've had bad experiences pretty consistently with the AEM units not reading correctly on our cars. Bosche sensor.

B

 

I'm sort of stuck for plug wires beign that I'm using the Jacob's coils/amps....they have male posts.

I'd have to either make a set of MSD wires, or use something else by NGK that has the proper length and proper ends. I don't seem to be having any trouble with them though. THe entire ignition setup was purchased from RX-Heven who ran them well past 400whp lighting pure water.

As far as the wideband goes, I do want to get a unit that uses an NTK sensor, but I've got this one now and will probably use it till the sensor burns out. That might be before you get here though

How far down the downpipe would you like the bung for your sensor Brian?

 

^^^I will be installing my PLX r500 for the tuning day. Same sensor as Brian's and PLX recommends 24 inches away from the manifold. You can runs it closer but PLX recommends a spacer on the bung if doing so.

 

Right on. I'll put it just upstream from mine then. I'm about 36" from the exhaust ports now.

Where'd you purchase your WB02 Charn?

 

Dam. So I have everything wrong. I Suck!

 

I ordered it through Exotic Motoring Accessories a couple of years ago. Back when I was trying to put Jim K's old FD Twin turbos on my FC. They are horrible to deal with but they were the only Ontario dealer at the time. I think Brent Clement is a dealer for them now.

I picked up PLX's DM100 OLED gauge system as well. Really nice stuff but I think it will be a little overkill with the r500 screen, PFC commander and the gauge. April is all about the interior for me so I'll figure it out. Wish I could go with you guys to deals gap.

 

I used the same plugs your running Joe, they lasted the entire season.2007. I've never had a set last that long before. They seem to hold up better to flooding than the stock plugs. I was only pushing 12psi most of the season though. Don't get me wrong, I'd definitely take Brian's word for what type you should run.

Ps, just saw Lawyer's Spirit's post, yes I am a dealer for them.

 

I'd like it nearby the turbo where I can get easy access to it. I don't prefer it way down below the car because it makes the installation and removal of the sensor alot more tedious and time-consuming.

Not only with the sensor die early, it will also be inaccurate. You'll see what I mean when I'm there and have mine up against yours in comparison.

B

 

Thanks Brian, will do

 

Brian, when you say the bosch sensor isn't good, in what way do you mean? If its an overheating things, I have the O2 heat sink extender to keep things cooler:



Not sure how this will effect things, but hopefully its for the best.

Also what would be your recommendation for wires? I plan on getting some new ones as i'm just using the stock second gen ones.

 

When he says the Bosch sucks it's because it's MUCH slower to react than the much more expensive NTK sensor. My FJO Bosch sensor was 78 bucks the NTK was 235, just to give you an idea. Apparently the NTK is also more resistant to leaded race fuel aswell.

 

My M-300 came with a Bosch sensor. Does this mean I have to change it?

thewird

 

Well on a 2nd look my PLX came with a bosch. It is brand new so it will have to do.

 

Nah, it's just slower to react, so not as accurate.

 

I'm pretty sure that in a lot of cases latency comes from the controller (or display) more than the sensor. When I switched from the aem to the plx i used the exact same sensor and noticed a huge change. It was in the display only however, because when I looked at the logs they didn't match what I had seen displayed on the guage, the guage was always a second or two behind and the logs made sense.

 

From what I read the datalogit has to be corrected to what the display is showing in a bottle with some butane at a specific afr.

thewird

 

We use the Innovate one with the Bosch Sensor in our Formula SAE results with good results unless they have change the O2 sensors they offer?

 

I'm just reading this thread, but then what wideband is recommend by the pros? (Brian)

 

Well from doing a little further reading, looks like the new bosch's (LSU4.2) seem to be just as good as the NTK one.

 

Well, that's good to hear since the PLX wb's come with that particular sensor.