There is no learning curve

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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 08:32 PM
  #1  
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From: Creston, B.C.
There is no learning curve

So after a year of driving my 86 Gxl with a leading oil control ring, I decided it was time to swap the engine (being currently un equipped for a rebuild). What better to swap in than a T2 engine? Yes I know there are better engines to swap, but to my budget and skill level, a T2 was the best. Tl;dr at bottom.

So I pulled my car into the back yard and started following the fsm on how to remove the engine, slowly making progress. I wasn't in too much if a hurry, since I didn't have an engine yet. A month or so later, my parents garage cleared up, giving me a roof and a concrete floor, trailered the car there and got to work pulling the engine.



After locating and picking up an engine (S5 was all I could find), I found out that everything I needed wasn't there. I was short a turbo, manifold, intercooler, all the piping, and, obviously, all the s4 T2 electronics. While waiting for parts to come up online, I decided to strip the keg and paint it.


First engine painting, so I think I did alright

Throughout locating parts, screwing up the pilot bearing, getting a turbo and manifold, and installing a clutch for the first time, I finally got it ready to drop in.






I decided not to put on the a/c system that I bought due to complexity under the hood/dash and the added weight. I also decided last year (it was reeeaaalllyy hot here) that rolling with the windows down was actually quite sufficient.

On the topic of saving weight, I also decided to remove the dumb air baffle system that goes under the presenter headlight. There went a couple very unnecessary pounds, unless I extremely misunderstand that system.

I had to modify the s5 throttle body a bit to work with my n/a throttle cable and s4 tps, but that wasn't too much since I found a guide on here.
Had to swap the injector plugs to suit s5 injectors and remove the resistor box.

Also had to figure out the twin-scroll actuator. That was actually really fun, following a guide I also found on here.

Did the emissions deletes, due to lack of parts and space/weight, I "fabricated" some block off plates (and by fabricated, I mean used a drill and hacksaw), including the omp due to not having that, and s5 has an electronic omp, to my s4 ecu.

My s4 and s5 p/s pumps had to trade parts, due the the people that pulled the engine having cut every wire and hose they could get their hands on.

Gathered the rest of the bits, put it all together (damn was the turbo oil drain ever difficult. How are you meant to put it on with the engine and turbo in the car?), and voila;



Turn the key, crank crank crank, and no firing.

When I was putting it together, I read that jdm fuel lines were reversed. Not knowing which direction was jdm and which was usdm, I took a wild guess, and guessed wrong haha. That was my first guess, pulled the intake off, cut new fuel lines, put it all back together, and she fired right up.

Quick test run up the road proved there was a kink to work out (and an exhaust mid pipe to fabricate, though I enjoyed the sound). Read up on how to properly put in the CAS after not paying attention to it the first time. Warmed it up, did the idle, tps and timing, ran like a beauty. Couple more test runs and I was happy with the results. Insured the car for half year, and the issues begin. Oil leak left me terrified that I didn't put the flywheel on properly (I don't know if that could cause a leak or not) turns out it was just the oil filter pedestal o-rings. I was about ready to cry myself to sleep.
Then the power steering pressure lines started squirting out the pinholes that may or may not have made me condemn my old p/s pump due to what I though was an unfixable leak after rebuilding it twice.
So as I type this, I need a new high pressure power steering line and a t2 hood, then I will call this chapter of my Rx7's life complete. Then, on to even bigger and better things. Near future plans; fix/repaint fender, figure out wiper fluid light issue. Get boost gauge and wideband.

Tl;dr It took me about 8 months of finding parts and the time to swap an S5 T2 engine into an S4 Gxl. My first engine swap ever. Couple issues to fix. Very happy with results.




Rx7 humour.

I'm not the best at this kind of thing, but I'll try to do more interesting things in the future. Ask any questions you have, lend any advice you have. Thanks for all your time. I look forward to driving a turbo'd car.

Last edited by manoflego; Apr 11, 2016 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 11:40 PM
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Looks good man. No better way to learn then just doin it.
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 03:19 AM
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Rotary lift ftw! Hahaha. Really like the approach your taking, keep it up
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 07:42 PM
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Either un plug the washer fluid sensor or run a jumper between the two pins if I remember right . I wanna say it's the first . Looks good man for a first build . The fc electrical is a nightmare In its stock form . One reason I got a haltech e6k lol which still suck to wire but is way cleaner looking for sure and less wires
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 10:50 PM
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From: Creston, B.C.
Thanks guys

Originally Posted by unek87
Either un plug the washer fluid sensor or run a jumper between the two pins if I remember right . I wanna say it's the first . Looks good man for a first build . The fc electrical is a nightmare In its stock form . One reason I got a haltech e6k lol which still suck to wire but is way cleaner looking for sure and less wires
I guess I'll give that a try haha, though I'm kinda picky about things working properly, but I'll see what it comes down to. I'll save up for a computer eventually, just wanted to get it going for now.

Really tough finding parts for rx7s around where I live in bc. About ready to follow the FlyingMiata how-to for depowering my steering rack, especially if my only option for new lines are from atkinsrotary for $325usd.
As well for the hood, I'm about ready to buy a universal hood and cut up my original hood and mould it on. All the people that have t2 hoods are either using them with a fmic or using it on a naturally aspirated car and are too damn stingy to sell or trade hoods.

Last edited by manoflego; Apr 12, 2016 at 10:53 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 10:39 AM
  #6  
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Tl;dr at bottom.
So after getting the car up on Hoist and checking (almost) everything, I found my axle nut was finger loose. Torque that up by feel, so I hope it's a good tightness.
Found the source of my vacuum leak. A vacuum cap on the LIM had popped off somehow, so skillfully with a screwdriver I flicked it out, and recapped it. Man was I surprised with how my method worked, but I was happy
Also found the source of my oil leak. The gasket I used to block off the OMP just wasn't cutting it I guess. So much for having a nice clean engine.
And for the biggest issue I saw, my wastegate rod wasn't connected to the flapper. Thankfully it was stuck open, and not closed... I knew I wasn't getting as much boost as before :p I used some copper wire strands in place of the c clip that I didn't have... I'll do it properly some day haha.
Next issue I have to deal with is figuring out why my vehicle shakes so hard at different times. After tightening the axle nut, it still persisted. The car would shake uncomfortably at 80kph. Looked around my engine bay to see a plug wire looked not entirely on (misfires can cause shaking, right?), so I popped that on properly. Now it seems to shake violently in 3rd gear at 60kph, but not in 4th gear at the same speed. Later today I will check the plugs to make sure they are not fouled and causing a misfire still.
Next thing to check after that it's my driveshaft. The front u joint did wriggle a tiny bit, but I'm not sure what's within specs. I also read that the driveshaft has to be on the correct way, so I may need to rotate it 90°, or it could just be out of balance seeing as it is used and a custom t2 to na driveshaft, though I think it's from mazdatrix, so it should be decent.
Headed to spaldings in spokane today to get some parts for my gfs beetle, hopefully I will be able to find a taurus and snag the alternator and electric fan, I'd be pretty happy with that.
As for next week, I have a hook up for a fmic from a 240 for a pack of beer, hopefully it comes with some piping so I can get it installed and put my n/a hood back on, setting as nobody would sell me a t2 hood in Kelowna.

Tl;dr fixed boost, vacuum and oil issues, hopefully getting taurus parts, getting fmic that I will hopefully be able to install right away to get my na hood on.

Sorry for the lack of pictures, not used to recording my stuff like this. I'll try to remember to take pictures do it's more interesting for all of us.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 11:45 PM
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A buddy of a buddy of mine hooked me up with a used fmic and random piping for a case of beer (He gave it to me free, but I couldn't take it for nothing). After a couple hours of figuring out where the intercooler will fit, I started on the piping.






After some messing around and lots of cutting, I got the finished product.




Not the prettiest piping job you've ever seen, but it seems to work, and it's my first ever, so I'm happy.
After a test drive, and two "breakdowns", I made it home. Apparently I didn't tighten a couple clamps, so the pipes just popped off haha.

Made it to my multimeter to set the tps, set the idle, and now it runs alright. I think I've got a bad multimeter (it's from probably the middle of the last century), because testing my tps shows that it's faulty, but my car seems to run mostly right. My spare tps is apparently bad too. Although I made a tps checker lamp, and that seems really messed up too, I can't get both lights to come on at the same time, it's only one or the other :/

I can definitely feel the turbo lag with the front mount. Pretty upsetting really, but maybe it'll get better when I figure out my other issue.

When I touch the throttle, the car stumbles for a second, then starts going normally, same as when I let off the throttle all the way, same stumble for a second.
Any ideas?
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Old May 3, 2016 | 01:02 AM
  #8  
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That silicone coupler looks a little funky..but hey..you got it workin.

Honestly,there can be cars that look like a million bucks..but will you see the them every day?.NO.

I live by this phrase: "I built it,don't care what it looks like.. it Works..so Screw you..It's mine!"

So..here,I just made this phrase up for you.
There is no Difference between Lamborghini and Linguini...if you are Dyslexic..
One is way better than the other but Just don't try to eat a Lamborghini.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 06:53 AM
  #9  
manoflego's Avatar
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From: Creston, B.C.
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
That silicone coupler looks a little funky..but hey..you got it workin.

Yeah, they're some weird material, like a kind of nylon or something on the outside

Honestly,there can be cars that look like a million bucks..but will you see the them every day?.NO.

I live by this phrase: "I built it,don't care what it looks like.. it Works..so Screw you..It's mine!"



So..here,I just made this phrase up for you.
There is no Difference between Lamborghini and Linguini...if you are Dyslexic..
One is way better than the other but Just don't try to eat a Lamborghini.
Hahaha, you really did just make that up, that's great. Thanks for the feedback
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Old May 5, 2016 | 10:45 AM
  #10  
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From: austin,tx
That's high ideas right there brotha . Looking good op .
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Old May 7, 2016 | 12:00 PM
  #11  
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From: Creston, B.C.
So currently I'm trying to figure out my lack of power issue. It started soon after I installed my front mount, so I'm assuming it's a boost leak. I couldn't find any leaks with soapy water though. I've plugged in a vacuum/boost gauge into the bov line, sitting at idle has 0 vacuum, but fluctuates an acceleration. Headed out to my shop later to put my top mount back on to see if that's the issue. Compression test is next after that. Any ideas otherwise?
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Old May 13, 2016 | 10:21 AM
  #12  
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From: Creston, B.C.
So after putting my top mount back on, blowing my main fuse (I have no idea how that happened) and reattaching my front mount, my car seems to be running fine again. Oh, and finding out a vacuum cap got pulled off and was stuck in a spare vacuum line I have, my car seems to be running fine again. I just need a properly working multimeter to set my tps, and set the idle then it should be running like a top, then time to start saving up for suspension, being coilovers and bushings. She could use a modest lowering and I get wicked wheel hop around corners and during burnouts.
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