j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

higgi was showing me his PS2k maps and the software has a whole page where you can set failsafes and limp homes and stuff. it looks like you can do pretty much anything you can think of.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

That is awesome, especially in the case of an injector sticking open, solenoid failure, hose leaks, etc. I just might use that coupled with some LEDs on the dash for fault codes. Red for oil stuff, Blue for coolant and Yellow for Boost.

Well I finally got off my butt today and did some of the radiator hose groundwork. Early on, I knew everything related to the radiator would require flex hoses. After getting Gates #26501 for the bottom and #25476 for the top from the local Oreilly Auto Parts (They ROCK!), I realized that no flexible hose could close to the bend radius needed for this project. Both ends of the top hose would need very tight bends to meet up with the barbs. Determined to not be defeated, I went to Menards' plumbing section and found the solution on the cheap...

Nibco #C607 1 1/4" copper pipe elbows. They fit inside the ends of 1.5" hose just as well as the 1 1/2" street elbow's smaller end, but are the same size on both ends unlike a street elbow. For $5 each, it's worth a try at least. And yes, Aaron Cake, I did read up on your experiments with copper hardline for the heater core return and what caused it to not work as intended. If the hoses do pop off or aren't on there as tight as a canadian catholic schoolgirl's chacha, it wouldn't be too difficult to build up a barb lip using JB weld.

After taking a look at their rubber pipe couplers, I realized that 2.5" OD tube would probably translate to a 2" or 2.25" plumbing coupling. Next time I'm there, I'll bring some of the leftover intake pipe to check it. If my hunch is correct, that might be a cheap way to sew up the intercooler plumbing.

Here's what I had in mind for the Radiator Hoses:
Use the old lower radiator hose on the water pump housing lower neck, with the custom 3-way heater return tee adapter on the other end. Run some blue AN10 hose from the 5/8" barb on the tee to the stock hardline and connect the radiator to the tee with the #26501 Green Stripe flex hose.

As for the top hose, cut two 3" straight sections from it and put those on the water pump's upper hose barb & radiator top barb with the two elbows. then put the #25476 between the elbows. That way, its flexibility is only needed to account for misalignment and will be well within its applicable bend radius.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Yet again, the car gods have smiled upon me. Felix Wankel must be very pleased with my progress, determination and imagination...

2" Rubber Pipe Couplers are a PERFECT fit for 2.5" OD Exhaust/Intake tubing. Menards has straight couplers for $5 and 90 degree ones for $7.50, both with appropriate hose clamps included. Despite not being as tight of a bend as proper silicone ones, it's perfect for my needs. If I find that one part needs a tighter bend, 2" NPT 45 and 90 degree elbows and pipe nipples are cheap enough.

Radiator hoses are on and clamped in place. My idea for the top hose worked perfectly. Though the hose itself could have been about 5" shorter, I made it work thanks to those tight 90 degree copper elbows. The top hose runs parallel to the bottom one for about 3" due to the excess length.

All in all, not too shabby for using regular off-the-shelf parts. Pics will come in the morning once the heater return hose is on. Might use another copper bend there too..

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'm not exactly sure what you can do as far as LED's on the dash (i think it will do a check engine light though), but i don know you can set all the failsafes you want based on oil temp, pressure, and coolant temps. the only thing you need is to have the sensor hooked to the ecu.

the radiator hoses get interesting, i was able to use an FD upper hose, and i think the stock FC hose cut in 2 with a pipe in the middle for my 3 rotor, but my friends 20B truck had a weird question mark hose....

i have done pipe too, in theory its better, but you do need to have a bead on it, otherwise it will come off.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

my car i used just a 90* silicone coupler from the upper to swirl pot and stock upper hose for lower.

worked perfectly. my setup is quite a bit different than yours though

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Heater hose is done now, took WAY too long. Since the stock hose was being pinched slightly by the Wastegate Actuator, that wouldn't work to my liking and the -10AN hose I had on hand is too reinforced to stretch over the hose barb. Pushing as hard as I could wouldn't get it to budge either, partly due to not being able to get a straight shot on the barb. And it wouldn't come close to making the necessary bend either...

So I cut the stock heater hose off at the hardline barb it and put it on backwards. Now the outlet faces straight down to meet a dirt-cheap NIBCO 1/2" 90 degree copper pipe joiner (28 cents at Menards), then to a short piece of leftover -10AN blue hose, another 90 degree copper elbow and some regular 5/8" heater hose from Oreilly Auto Parts to fit onto the the 3-way adapter with hose clamps on each transition at the largest parts. Not exactly pretty or refined, but it'll work.

Slapped on a vacuum cap on the radiator's overflow nipple, reinstalled the stock overflow bottle and run the hose back to the original location on the filler neck and the coolant system is finished entirely now. Well, except for a generic GM radiator cap that'll never get opened.

Yes, I said I'd get pictures of it, but I spent too much time running around for plumbing stuff so it'll be first thing in the morning. Tomorrow's business is mounting the oil cooler, making its hoses and doing the starter & transmission wiring using the original pigtail from the automatic and a couple bullet connectors for the reverse switch. Yes, it's cheap but it's got the original 4-pin FE-05 and and 1-pin starter connectors. Sure beats the purple and blue mess with quick disconnects that I put on there last time

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Today brought slow but important progress. Oil cooler is C-clamped its final home. Cooler hoses are cut to approximate length and in place. Its orientation is with the oil thermostat facing down, front cover hose will be on the side port (nearest the thermostat) while the rear hose from the oil filter will go directly on top. Because of the C-clamp on the driver's side, I couldn't get the hoses on the cooler yet. Due to a late start and running out of daylight, the last holes to be drilled in the crossmember & cooler brackets will have to wait till tomorrow. Normally I'd say **** it and drill them out with a flashlight but it's way too close to the radiator to risk it.

As promised, here are the pictures
Top Side Detail Shot


Bottom Side Detail Shot


Overall picture


Received the Vacuum Manifold from McMaster-Carr today and it looks very nice. 10 1/4" NPT outlet ports and two 3/8" NPT inlet port. The outlet ports are arranged 90 degrees apart in two rows of 5 with the inlet ports on either end. Mounting holes are M5 size, not threaded and it is reasonably generous with them. Should fit snugly behind the passenger side headlight $29.50 shipped and worth every penny.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Last night, my girlfriend got me motivated to finish the Oil Cooler...so I did it at 2AM

Haven't touched the car all day aside from undoing the oil filler tube & center iron hoses from everything else so it can be plumbed correctly. As the Center Iron port is a pain to access thanks to the rear rotor's coils, I'm just gonna buy a hose splicer and add onto the short hose I put on there last month. Cheap, I know but it's only used for blowby and goes to a catch can that still needs to be acquired.

Interesting parts note:
The Z32 300ZX's PCV Valves have a hose barb on the manifold side and a 1/4" NPT fitting on the block side. This makes it super easy to plumb everything up. Charcoal Canister and Oil Filler Tube go into a 1/4" NPT Tee, with the Z32 PCV Valve on the other side with a nice long hose going back to the vacuum manifold block (Constant Vacuum). Pretty slick for a stock part.

Another very useful parts note is that I found a cap at Autozone for $5 for my Jegs radiator. CST #7020 is a perfect fit for the cap neck and is rated at 20psi. Because I'm using the stock FC cap/overflow system rated at 13psi, it'll work just peachy. And since it'll be hidden by the intercooler plumbing, who cares that it's not polished and shiny. Plenty of other shiny things to gawk at like the kids in a candy store that we all are at heart...

Since it's too dark out to get decent pictures, here's something useful to tide everyone over.
The Complete 13B-REW/20B-REW Sequential Twin Turbo Vacuum Diagram.


I made this by combining 3 different diagrams together and adding in some of my own refinements like Solenoid #7 to eliminate boost creep and all of the useful part numbers for hose barbs, solenoids & pigtails and where to find them. Major thanks to Aaron Cake for explaining how to plumb the Charcoal Canister & Center Iron ports correctly.

pdxrotornewb

iTrader: (2)

That is a killer diagram. I'm planning on using Haltech when I go 13b-rew so this will be helpful. Great job!

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, the diagram went through several iterations before it had everything accounted for.

Looks like my idea to use household plumbing parts for the intake worked only halfway...


This is gonna be some UGLY plumbing and have to be done entirely in silicone 90's since there's so little room. Really not looking forward to it.

Also found out how a PCV Valve works. Unlike a Check Valve, a PCV valve works based on a Pressure Difference Window. the pressure difference between both ends has to be within a certain range or the valve closes because it has two closed positions. In contrast, a normal Check Valve has only one closed position.

Here's the average PCV Valve, with the plunger being green.


Because it can close in either direction, it doesn't matter which way it faces. So the nice Z32 300ZX valve can be put in backwards. From the 1/4" NPT Tee linking the Charcoal Canister and Oil Filler Tube, here are the necessary NPT fittings (Watts part numbers):

A-729: 1/4" NPT pipe nipple w/wrench hex
A-765: 3/8 F-NPT to 1/4 F-NPT adapter
A-386SH 3/8 M-NPT to 5/8" Hose Barb
If not available, you may use A-813 (1/2 F-NPT to 1/4 F-NPT adapter) and A-493 (1/2 M-NPT to 5/8 Hose barb)
Short section of 5/8" Hose
Z32 300ZX PCV Valve (Champ # PC283, $4 at Autozone)
A-197: 1/4 F-NPT to 1/4" Hose Barb
1/4" hose leading back to vacuum manifold block

In theory, a check valve would work if oriented to flow towards the vacuum manifold. Would be cheap to try and fits 1/4 or 3/16" hose barbs that I already have. The main concern would be that the medium going through it would clog it up. Maybe I'll just get a different PCV Valve instead...

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

pdxrotornewb, I made a couple corrections to the diagram in regard to the PCV Valve upon finding out a much cleaner solution. Re-uploaded the diagram in the same location, so it'll be in the post I put it in.

The FD has two PCV Valves, N3A1-13-890 and NF01-13-890. After finding these thanks to http://www.standardbrand.com/Online%...g/Content.aspx using 5mm as the barb size, I checked prices at Mazdatrix and found out something downright dumb...

THEY ARE ONE-WAY CHECK VALVES WITH 3/16" HOSE BARBS

Schedule for the Final Mission:
12/16:
Reconnect Haltech & Starter/Reverse Lights Harnesses
Install downpipe
Finish Vacuum System

12/17:
Fill Oil, Transmission, & Coolant
Bleed Clutch & Coolant

When I get motivated:
Y-pipe to Intercooler Plumbing

moldypoo

Going to be sweet. I like the way its coming together.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

I'm taking a break to reorganize all the plumbing fittings, electrical stuff and tools so here's the mid-day progress update.

Downpipe is on. Thread pitch is M12x1.25, not M12x1.5 like on the FD. So far, this is the only location on the whole car and engine that I've seen use M12x1.25. Haven't touched the differential yet, so who knows about that. Starter & reverse lights are connected & loomed neatly with corrugated split tubing.

Vacuum Manifold is in place now, a huge improvement over the brass clusterfuck it replaced. Oil Filler Tube & charcoal canister are plumbed to a tee with the output going to a 3/16" check valve and returning to the Vacuum Manifold. Center Iron port's hose has a splicer on it so it'll reach where the trailing coil originally was. Perfect spot for the catch tank I'll build over the winter.

Fuel Pressure Regulator is connected to the one of the UIM's rear vacuum nipples with silicone hose and secured on both ends with aircraft safety wire. Should be fine for a LONG time.

While at Menards earlier, I revisited the plumbing section and think I came up with a solution for the Bitch Pipe (Y-pipe to Intercooler plumbing). Since it's not immediately necessary for the first start, it can wait till payday. Wiring, spark plugs and all of the remaining vacuum stuff is getting finished tonight.

GtoRx7.

iTrader: (12)

Make sure a fire extingisher is handy on first fire-up! Actually a couple handy.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Haven't gone outside yet to mess with the car, but I figured out something interesting about the stock ECUs' boost control system.

Every turbo rotary uses the same boost tables and they were written in 1982. The reason why I say 1982 is because the 12A Turbo FB & HB Cosmo came out in September 1983 and R&D-ing chips back then was expensive and lengthy. Getting it right probably took at least 9 months since it was the very first Turbo Rotary. Both ran 8psi of boost.

In September 1985, the S4 FC was introduced and ran the same 8psi. The only difference between their ECUs is in their pinouts. One such addition on the S4 FC was the quick spool valve that required an output from the ECU.

When the JC Cosmo arrived in March 1990 and then the FD in 1991, it had a restrictor pill in the wastegate vacuum line. Remove the pill and you get...

8psi of boost

The only difference between the Turbo FC and 13B JC/FD ECUs is that the JC/FD ECUs have the extra pins for operate the twin turbo system. The Boost Control System operates identically to the 12A Turbo. This is how you can use a FD's Apex'i PowerFC on a FC. The 20B's ECU is the same as a 13B one, but has the extra necessary pins to operate the 3rd rotor's ignition system, fuel injectors and knock sensor. Everything else is legacy stuff carried over from 1982.

Trying to rework the boost control circuits inside the ECU to up the boost to 10psi would have cost Mazda lots of money in R&D and programming. This was in 1988/1989, when programming chips was very expensive. Suffice to say the top brass chose a cheap plastic restrictor pill because it was cheaper, and most of the ECU R&D Budget probably went into the Sequential Turbo Control System. Probably only took a day or two to find the right size restrictor pill. All the pill does is make the wastegate actuator see less vacuum than normally available. Hence, it opens later at a higher pressure. This is how a boost controller works as well.

Base boost pressure is set by the wastegate spring, then increased using the Wastegate Solenoid, and either a Boost Controller or Restrictor Pill.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

In the previous work schedule, I COMPLETELY FORGOT about the Throttle Cable . Well, I had forgotten about it all along

After connecting all the wiring up, I found that the S4 NA throttle cable is too long. The end "barrel" hooks onto the linkage track just fine, but it places the threaded adjuster fitting too far away from the 20B's throttle cable bracket.

Solution: Pull the bracket off and make an extension.
Cost: Free

For reference, the throttle cable bracket uses M5X0.8 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS and they went straight into the parts box never to be used again. Not sure what the length is, but the LS2 Truck coil bracket bolts were the same pitch and about 6mm longer than these.

What I specifically did was put some extra bolts through the holes, with nuts to hold them snug. Place a piece of thin single-layer cardboard (Cereal Box thickness) over the exposed bolt shafts and tap on the cardboard with the ball peen hammer. This turns the cardboard into a perfect template and the holes cut out by the hammer fit the bolts perfectly every time. Transfer to steel and drill the holes.

I used 1/8" thick 1 1/2" wide flat steel and left a gap of about 1/8" on all sides. The holes are roughly 1 1/2" apart, so put the template on sideways before marking the holes. I goofed and didn't make the first pair even from the edge. Did the same thing on the other pair so it doesn't change the angle at all.

To keep the stock bracket in the same front-to-back location, I put 3 washers under the extension bracket, and a nut (3mm tall) directly under the bolt head on the side that attaches to the throttle body. For the stock 20B bracket, put it on the FRONT of the extension bracket and secure with two more bolts.

Throttle is semi-adjusted (double-checking it in the daylight), wiring is finished and it's now ready for fluids, sealing up the last bits of the vacuum system and the car's on-camera debut for its first start

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Wow, one day and I haven't posted... I'm sure slacking off

To my dismay, today was consumed by securing the P/S cooling loop & front end wiring in place, fixing a ground that had disappeared, securing the oil pressure hose & stock sender to the strut tower and giving the vacuum manifold and turbo control system some much-needed attention. Also mounted & connected the horns.

Thanks to a heads-up from j9fd3s, the double throttle is now kaput. Found out this morning that if they're not connected to the UIM, boost pressure will close them and choke the engine. Because the vacuum nipple for the double throttle is long gone, I fixed it the quick & dirty way by just removing the butterflies. M4x0.7 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS!!! Thank Flying Spaghetti Monster they didn't strip. I've had downright amazing luck when it comes to nuts & bolts not stripping or breaking off on the car & engine.

All the Turbo Control System's fittings were taken apart, given teflon tape and reassembled. Still need to get two more hose barbs, another plug and 3ft of 3/8" hose for the brake booster first thing in the morning tomorrow and that'll complete the vacuum system. Drill a couple holes to mount the manifold behind the headlight and it's signed, sealed and delivered.

And now, a nugget of joy from Zorak...
What happened to the oil pressure gauge signal wire?
When the engine was pulled last year, I had no idea what happened to this wire. All I remember is that the gauge worked before pulling the engine, then I had the sender out and the wire disappeared...

Now you see why I have the oil pressure sender remote located on a tee...Just for occasions like this.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

gotta love the phillips head screws on the throttle body. I'm amazed every time I manage to get one out without stripping it, and disappointed and enraged every time I can't.

also, weirdly enough, the wire for my coolant temp sensor vanished somehow during my Haltech install, so I know the feeling lol.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i used to have a 139rwhp@12psi dyno sheet to prove it too!

i ALWAYS forget the coolant temp sensor wire, i've done it so many times.... its basically why i don't wrap the harness until after the car has been running for a while.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

DAMN, we all knew that rotaries in N/A form were once pretty wheezy, but a 20B-REW getting out muscled by a S4NA 13B? That demands proof...
I invoke Man Law: Pics or GTFO

Just came in from a 15-hour day working on the car. Electrical stuff is sewn up, vacuum stuff is ready to be connected for the last time finally found the oil pressure sender wire and installed the sender. Unfortunately, the extension hose idea didn't want to work because the Male BSPT to Female NPT adapter I got from McMaster-Carr wasn't made correctly and doesn't thread into either NPT or BSPT. So it's back to a stock setup...for now

The transmission is filled. This was a complete NIGHTMARE. The inspection plug is stuck in place currently. I was giving the wrench and pipe every bit of muscle I had and it just wanted to round two corners off. So being the optimist and thinking "NA transmissions don't have an inspection plug and I've done those before", I went ahead and started filling it up. Just gonna come out and say it...

That was THE STUPIDEST thing I've ever done. :wallbash :

Having the inspection plug out is a convenient hole for air to escape. If that's stuck, air will come out through the hose you're putting gear oil in through. What you get is what happened to me.

It took 12 Hours, yes TWELVE HOURS to put in 83.2 ounces of 80w-90 gear oil. The first quart was a breeze, only hiccuping a couple times for air. After that, it all went downhill.

First it got dark, then it started raining, and then it started backing up like a toilet at a frat party. I spent at least 8 times as long getting air bubbles out of the hose than putting in more gear oil.

But me, being the stubborn impatient fellow I am, stuck with it and finished it. In retrospect, this is probably the only task that I'd ever consider paying someone to do for me.

Will I EVER do this again? Only and I mean ONLY if the inspection plug magically comes loose, I have a positive pressure pump just for this and only if it is absolutely necessary.
Translation: Second week of January

Now that the psychotic crazy **** is over and done with, Oil and coolant tomorrow. Now if you'll excuse me, I needs zonk time.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Progress Report for 12/20:

Vacuum system: 90% finished including the Cruise Control Actuator. All that remains is sealing up the vacuum storage chamber.

Transmission & Drivetrain: 87% done. Still need to reinstall the transmission fill plug and bleed the clutch the rest of the way.

Wiring: 100% Completed* including hooking up the Oil Level Sensor. The plug in the S4 Engine Harness has disappeared and left only the pin (a tyco electronics part), but I managed to put a delphi pin in it and it holds reasonably secure. Wrapped it up in electrical tape so it's fine for the first start. Oil Pressure Sender wire isn't secure enough to my liking but should be fine. Oddly enough, I can't currently locate who makes this weird button-type connector. If you know, please tell me.

Injectors and Ignition coils are on subharnesses so it's easy to disable both when priming the engine for the first start. Haltech Fuel Pump output wire is teed into existing wiring via a short adapter pigtail.

Oil System: 100% done
Coolant System: 100% done
Fuel System: 100% done. Probably should drain the old gas out of the tank...

ECU: 50% done. Had set up the inputs/outputs months ago in anticipation. Just need to calibrate it to the sensors.

On the agenda for tonight is...
Reinstall transmission fill plug & give the inspection plug more PB Blaster.
Double and Triple-check drains and all hoses for oil & coolant systems
Finish bleeding the clutch
Siphon out old gas, replace with fresh.

Tomorrow shall bring pictures and video of the first start.

*What isn't hooked up is Solenoid #7, the Taurus fan, and the interior override switches. Without hooking it up, Solenoid #7 defaults to passing along UIM vacuum to the BOV as normal. The only original parts that I didn't hook up are the knock sensors due to needing a knock control box for it, and ignition timing will be completely stock.

As for the fan, I'm still debating it for now. Yes the Taurus fan moves more air than a hurricane, but it's also quite chunky and will be difficult to shoehorn in the available space. A couple slim 12" fans would be simpler to wire, easier to fit and be a bit cleaner overall.

In regard to the interior switches, here's the 411:
The Sequential/Non-Sequential Switch isn't needed yet and will be cake to put in later. Just remove the ground from the relay, extend the wire to the inside and slap a SPST switch on it.

Fan Override switch is much the same, extend the relays' grounds to inside and connect to a SPDT center-off switch.

Turbo Control Switch is gonna be a clever piece. Gonna be a DPST switch and trigger two 5-pin relays connected to the Wastegate and BOV Solenoids.
Pin 30 goes to a solenoids positive wire, 87A is to the Haltech's DPO. 87 is from the battery. 86 is battery and 85 is ground via the switch. And to REALLY put it over the top...

Connect it to the DSI input on the haltech, which would conveniently be set up for DUAL FUEL MAPS. Just the ticket for stretching every gallon on those long, epic journeys to Deals Gap Rotary Rally Yup, a hypermiling 20B. Who said life wasn't perverse???

Sounds like the perfect reason to order these trick little rocker switches from Sigma Switches. They've got single or dual light circuits, SPST/SPDT/DPST/DPDT configurations with center-off and momentary-on versions, black, red or white colors for button and bezel and FIVE different lighting color options. And last, all the contacts are 0.250" spade tabs!

And just for that little 'extra', label them all on the actual light windows with the Casio KL-60 labelmaker I picked up 3 months ago at Big Lots for $10. I've already played around with the labelmaker for some of the underhood stuff and it certainly does the trick. The Injector/TPS subharness connectors are labelled with it using colored electrical tape under the clear background/black text labels. It'll be downright brilliant on the switches.


Yes, I'm Evil. And you're Green with Envy...

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Coolant is in, Oil is in, clutch is nice and firm now. All systems are free from leaks so far. Boost gauge is wired up temporarily to the radio wiring

And fate has chosen to deliver a nearly dead battery upon turning the key. Blew the 100 amp fuse on the battery's positive cable from trying to jumpstart it twice. Seems like a good reason to get a circuit breaker and do it the correct way. In addition, this is why the haltech was put on its own circuit, independent of everything else in the car.

In retrospect, this was a sign to double-check the haltech's settings first. And I just happen to find the calibration files for the GM coolant temperature sensor and FD air temperature sensor.

So now the big question is: Spend $30 in town for a 150A breaker tomorrow and get straight to the fun, or wait till after christmas, save $13 and wait for UPS to deliver it???

clokker

iTrader: (2)

A regular insulated female spade can be made to work quite easily.
Use a Dremel w/ cutoff wheel to cut a slit down the length of the insulation. This cut should be larger than the width of the pin part of the button.
The use the wheel to trim the folded over metal ears of the connector to the same size. You'll probably need to lever up those ears from the end with a small flat screwdriver. It's pretty self-explanatory once you start.

"Cleanliness=Godliness" does not apply in this case.
I think you'll be hard pressed to find a twin 12" setup that provides nearly enough airflow.
Be aware that when providing specs for their fans, most manufacturers are giving you "free air" results...the best possible conditions for the fan.
Slap that baby behind a radiator and fan output decreases dramatically.
Performance is further degraded if the fan isn't properly spaced off the cooling matrix and almost by definition, a "slimline" setup can't do that.

If you insist on going that way, it becomes imperative that you optimize the ducting in front of the radiator. This is less critical with the OEM Taurus/Lincoln/Volvo fans because they can hoover small critters from beyond the bumper but your smaller fans will need all the help they can get.
(Ducting is a great thing for any cooling system, so do it anyway).
You might also consider hood extraction, or any post-radiator air management system.

A compromise option would be a hybrid Volvo fan. The OEM 16" Volvo fan is unique (in my experience) in that the fan assembly is bolted to the shroud and can be removed complete with blade and blade guard. A nice custom shroud could be made, the fan bolted on and it may satisfy your aesthetic leanings.
The Volvo shroud has very nice air relief flaps that could be used as well.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

that whole car predates youtube! in addition i lost a hard drive, so i'm sort of lucky to have what i have... it might be that ATP has dyno sheets from 2001, but i kind of doubt it.

there IS a movie of an open DP dyno run, i think i have it on the other computer. on mine i used the stock mini DP thing from the turbos and it connected into a custom pipe into an RB turbo back. with that mini DP/o2 sensor holder boost or power didn't change when the exhaust came off

for the fan thing, since the 20B water pump pulley is off center, and the problem i used 2 spal fans, one big thick one and one small thin one, and it worked fine on the street. spal was the only fan i could find at the time that actually had a decent flowing thin fan.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Current status: The duralast battery drops to 8.5 volts on crank attempts.

Can we fix it?
No it's fucked!

It's one year past the free replacement period, so Autozone can only give me prorated credit on warranty towards ANY battery they stock. So $45 off a duralast gold battery, 3 years free replacement and when I kill that one, trade it in towards an Optima Yellow Top or Blue Top.