My FC Build (Love it, Hate it, doesn't matter to me)

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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 02:53 AM
  #126  
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Coming along nicely! I really like that shift ****... How high is that going to sit, though??
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #127  
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It'll sit about the same height as my last ****. But wont look as retarded. I'm looking into getting it anodized but haven't decided yet if I really want to or not.
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 05:29 PM
  #128  
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Should be ready to start... Tomorrow

I had to take out a sleeve on the box because a bolt was stripping in it and wouldn't come back out. Simple fix really, just pulled the sleeve/bolt, used vice grips and a 10mm socket, and walla, it was out. After cleaning out the inside of the box, I put in my new RacingBeat filter (that has been sitting in it's package for a few months now awaiting this moment), and bolted everything back up together.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6421392137/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6421392137/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Put it in the car, and started to finish putting everything back together. Radiator hoses, check. Air pump hose to the box, check. Plug wires, check. Coolant level sensor, check.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6421392227/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6421392227/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Just another view of it all. I really love the way those pulleys turned out

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6421392711/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6421392711/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

All that is left is to put the starter in, attach the wiring, and pray that it starts. Oh, and adding the coolant might be smart too.
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #129  
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Nice.
I have a lot of dogs at my place so I always used water for the first start to make fix any leaks so that the dogs don't get sick haha
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 01:44 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by jaggermouth
Nice.
I have a lot of dogs at my place so I always used water for the first start to make fix any leaks so that the dogs don't get sick haha
Good advice, wish I thought of that before I started up my fresh dropped in t2. Fresh coolant leaked from heater hoses and rad hoses. Perfectly good coolant all over my driveway, whatta waste haha. Good luck with starting her up tomorrow!
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 02:42 PM
  #131  
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Super awesome!

I got a video of me with that Corksport/RB combo.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/1st-...l2nd_12297.htm
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 02:40 PM
  #132  
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Video wont work for me :/

Car is pretty much ready for start-up, just have a couple quick fixes to finish up.

I got my shift boots in today, but have yet to put them on the car. Thanks to Ray Crowe for getting these to me!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447729891/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447729891/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447730371/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447730371/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

The interior is still nothing short of an absolute mess, but I'll get to that later. I received my eBay shift boot from the UK and put it on as a mock up just to see how it looks, and I approve. I need to buy some leather glue or something though to give it a true hold on the plastic, right now its just on by some electrical tape on the reverse side.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447728627/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447728627/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Another view of the shifter itself

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447728837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447728837/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Then I just need to get my RacingBeat SS clutch line on, but the bolts holding the slave hose on are literally not budging, so I'm going to try soaking them in PB or heating them up or something to get them off.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447729553/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447729553/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

The last thing I need to do is fix the fuel pump switch wiring and we will be good to go.

Tonight I'll be with a buddy painting an S14 and then tomorrow we will go out and get the car done, so hopefully I have a start up video for you guys!

Edit: Extra picture, as I realized the last engine shot was incomplete compared to now. I have everything all done in there, but I need to source a fan shroud and stock intake snorkel. If anyone has them, just PM me.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447729349/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6447729349/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Last edited by REAmemiya_fan; Dec 3, 2011 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #133  
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Alright, time for a mini update.

This thing has been angering me quite a bit recently. Had a fuel leak, so I took off the UIM and all things included t see from where. Found the puddles of fuel, but no source of leak. Found a crack in the cap of my front-most secondary injector, so I swapped it out with a spare. Put it all back together, tried cranking again. No start, more fuel leaking. Took off the UIM again to look again. Saw the hose from the pulsation damper was wet on the bottom, so I swapped it with my other one. Didn't fox the issue after more cranking. But, this time we found that the hose just wasn't on enough. So we pulled it up higher, clamped it, no more leaks. YAY! Checked for spark. GOD F*** YOU! No spark. Checked my fuses, only the top row under the defrost and heater worked with the test light. Great. That's where I'm at. So in the mean time, I finished replacing my shift boots. All new OEM rubber boots, eBay leather boot, and it felt beautiful. I also painted the shifter a flat white to see how it would look, and I personally like it. May tamper around with a few other colors just to see how they look, but in the end it may just end up being anodized black. Here are some pictures of how it looks now.

BTW, still need to install the RB stainless steel slave line, so pedal improvement still to come. Also, if you want to check for small daily updates on the car, just follow the link below. I admit I forgot to do them the past couple days, but I've been busy studying for tests.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6474929843/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6474929843/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6474929763/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6474929763/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6474929691/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6474929691/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 10:38 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by REAmemiya_fan
. Needless to say, I'm sure anyone that knows anything about rebuilding engines should know NOT to use silicone RTV gasket seal as an oil-pan gasket. I think we can all figure out what happened there.
Uh, the OEM does it on a lot of cars. Any Saturn engine has about a metric quarter ton of form in place gasket on it. The timing chain cover, and oil pan are both FIP.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 10:54 PM
  #135  
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lol, from Banzai:
Apply a 4 - 6mm continuous bead of RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to the bottom of the engine components along the inside of the studs and around motor mount holes (pic #6). NOTE: Install oil pan within 5 minutes.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #136  
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That build looks pretty dang sweet dude. Basically very similar to what I was doing with the Talon when my Daily Driver saturn slung a rod entirely through the block. Had to rush and finish so I could drive for a few weeks. Will be taking it apart again soon as I get the RX-7 to daily ready status.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #137  
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Lol, well idk what it was, but it did not do it's job as a gasket. Maybe some people use it for a gasket sealer, but this was the gasket in it's entirety. And it just dripped out like it was nobodys business.

@Rotank, thanks man. I'm hoping to have it driving by tomorrow, only problem is i forgot my keys at home so I can't try and start it.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #138  
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Haha that sucks man. I got this place I live at now mainly because of the barn. ~ 1400 square feet. Double wide door on one side of the front, semi door on the other side. And a single wide door on the back and one side. Plus a 4 car car port on the back. And a small loft. I would hate to have to drive somewhere else to work on my project.
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #139  
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Looking amazing!
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 08:17 PM
  #140  
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Hey guys I'm bringing some spotlight to my thread in the NA performance section because i need help deciding on what rebuild kit to buy. It's still probably a month maybe two before I buy, but f anyone who has had experience rebuilding your input is appreciated.
I know its hard to tell without the engine first torn down, but I'm looking to replace Just about everything anyway.

https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/streetable-na-build-976658/page2/
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #141  
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Haven't had an update in a while, but right now progress is slow :/

Replaced the thermostat but I must have torqued a bolt down too much, because it sheared AGAIN, causing one side to not be clamped down at all. So yay me, I get to pull it off again, get the bolt out again, and put it all back on AGAIN. I felt like an idiot when it happened. Only this time it happened during me tightening it instead of loosening it.

Then I just have to finish filling the trans fluid with the car on the lift, and start her up. I need gas though, and I need to try to measure out the pre-mix right.

For now though, my progress will be in my thread in the NA performance section. Ill attach a link in my sig so you guys can access it easily from any page of this thread.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 01:39 AM
  #142  
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I love your build, it's coming along nicely! I have a black steel hood I could sell you if you're still needing one
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #143  
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Cool build. It's refreshing to see such attention to detail on an n/a build. Speaking of which, "n/a performance" means porting so what are you considering?

With regards to fuel leaks, the PD will eventually become a problem, better the banjo bolt it now, before its too late.

Whats going on w/ the shifter? why is there a leather boot inside the rubber boot? Also not diggin the white at all. Black, silver, gunmetal....even gold, but white is a bad idea.
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #144  
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She is running again!!! I am very happy, however she is not driving just yet. Have to get it back on insurance and registered again. I still have to also do a couple random things on the car itself before I feel good driving it, and I would appreciate any advice on how to do the last two.

1) burp coolant. I won't be running what I have in there for very long, as I am not sure if I mixed it very good 50:50. I will soon be going to Honda coolant. Worth the money in my opinion.

2) figure out why my oil pressure gauge isn't working. The wiring that goes to what I think is the pressure sensor (goes into the oil pan iirc), but that may be the oil level sensor. Either way, I need to figure out that problem ASAP. I do not like not being able to see my oil pressure.

3) a good amonunt a smoke is coming from the engine, but I cannot tell what it is from. There's been oil and fuel spilt all over the damn thing, but I did my best to clean the fuel up. The coolant wasn't really much of concern. It may also be the paint still being treated onto the manifolds, or the new gaskets, I don't really know. I just home it's nothing bad, because I really don't want this thing to take a dump on me before I finish the other engine.

Sharingan: the irons will be switched in favor of four port units, and then will be half bridged. Port flow in the 6 ports around the actuator rods have really turned me off from them. As far as the shifter boots, I don't know what you mean... I have brand new Mazda rubber boots, a new Mazda shifter boot and three-bolt mounting plate thing. Then on top of all that, I have a new Italian leather shift boot. As far as the color, it was more of an experiment. I'm going to have it machine polished back to it's original silver, then I'll have it powder coated a gun meatal type color most likely.

Oh, I almost forgot, my p/s pulley wobbles pretty bad, and I need it to really not do that. It goes away in second, or maybe I just don't notice it much, but in first going slow around corners, i can feel it in the wheel and hear it. Any suggestions on how to tighten it up or anything? I will soon enough go to manual rack (thanks to Landon, if he still has it :P ) so it won't be a problem after that. But I would really not like for it to do that right now. I assume it would be even worse on dry road, but for now since it's like driving across the north pole, it probably isn't that bad.
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #145  
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If it helps, the oil pressure sending unit is the round thing kind of between the dip stick and the oil filter. The clip that holds the wire onto it are often worn out or broken, easy to fix tho.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 06:46 PM
  #146  
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Well im ready to drive it again, but I'm having issues with the title from the PO, since one thing was crossed out from his mistake, I need him to fill out a couple papers and send them back to me before i can turn them in to get the car registered. Very frustrating. Other than that, I need to get gas, and go out and enjoy the car. And wait for the arival of my manual rack.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #147  
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Well guys, after everything that has happened, I am happy to report that the car lives and runs strong! I felt so relieved hearing it purr to life and not miss a beat or go anywhere past the temp it should run. But first, some pics of my 87 being hauled away :,(

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889424771/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889424771/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889424941/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889424941/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425019/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425019/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425081/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425081/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

^^This guy called it the XR-7 :P

And now for some pics of what caused the drama at the emissions site.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425207/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425207/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Notice the top hose is swollen up pretty good, I had to cut off the hose and literally break the retaining clip off of it just to remove it because of how badly swollen it was.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425141/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425141/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

And that is the hole that has caused my problems. Also noticed the heater return hose was not tightened down all the way, allowing coolant to drip out of both ends.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425269/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425269/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

I know, it's Honda Type-2 coolant. It is far superior to any commercial grade coolant available and in leak tests it showed very significant drops in leakage (were talking about 4 oz after something like 100+ hours of constant system flow compared to 30+ oz of conventional coolant) and the water wetter does what we obviously know.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889424677/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889424677/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425347/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6889425347/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Day and night shots. The new Sylvania sealed beams are excellent btw, and the reason my headlight was stuck open was because of a hose stuck under it. Don't know where it came from.

And to finish off, here was a video I took and edited to cleverly disguise my cooling system test as an exhaust video. Temps never went above normal, and the engine pulls strong all the way to redline. So no damage done to it as far as I can tell. It even idled at a perfect 750rpm. Now lets party that another FC survives an overheating situation!



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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:02 AM
  #148  
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Well the engine's life was quite short lived, turns out the overheat on the emissions treadmill did the seals in, and now I'm at a loss of compression. ~60psi on the front rotor and ~35psi on the rear. I contemplated selling the car for a while, but in the end I'm just going to send it to Banzai Racing for a rebuild once my tax return comes in.

I just want to make a side note, for those who don't know, those guys over at Banzai are the definition of excellent customer service. They actually communicate with the customer which is more than can be said about most businesses that I have tried emailing or messaging.

So after that I can resume the progress of this build. Which will include welding the sunroof shut with a custom aluminum piece. It wont bother me too much since the car needs to be repainted anyway. And the reason I am doing it was because it was broken off the rails and I cannot figure out a good way to fix it, so I'm saying screw it. It will look better being flat surface too. I don't like sunroofs too much to begin with.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #149  
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Sorry to hear that man, sucks to loose an engine that soon. Glad to hear your not giving up. I gave up on my first RX-7 and now I'm back again.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 07:44 AM
  #150  
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Pretty soon there will be a new-car update in here after I sell my '88

Found an '89 GTU with 112k mi and only two owners. Very ecited for it, needs some DIY though with a couple rust areas. Not a problem though, it hasn't gotten too bad yet.

Plans are an OEM daily that will see some auto-x action
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