My FC Build (Love it, Hate it, doesn't matter to me)
#103
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You think it wouldn't be too bad with the silencer in the exhaust muffler tip? I also still have the diffusers in the exhaust ports so it shouldnt be too bad i wouldnt think.
@DdoubleR: thanks man, I hope it will be good when its all done. Engine gets dropped back in tomorrow then i need to get gas in it and put the premix in too.
@DdoubleR: thanks man, I hope it will be good when its all done. Engine gets dropped back in tomorrow then i need to get gas in it and put the premix in too.
#104
I use to run the RB header, straight pipe, to an Apex GT Spec exhaust and it was deifying without the silencer. With the silencer in it wasn't to bad but you definitely tell a different in the power from the extra restriction.
#106
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6351805744/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6351805744/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6351061201/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6351061201/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
almost
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6351061201/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6351061201/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
almost
#108
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Yea no kidding man, I wouldve but my shop teacher was rushing me to get it done. And im just wanting to have it going again. ill just wait until I paint the car to have it super clean. I'll clean it off a little more when I buy new motor mounts.
#111
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Little more progress.
Need to print more of my FSM so I can torque everything down properly. First start will probably be very rough because it's cold, it hasn't been run since July, and I'm hoping all the vacuum lines are right. Battery might also be a little undercharged. However, it's got all new NGK plugs and wires, pre-mix, a fuel pump switch (to prevent flooding I'm guessing), and a rebuilt intake. So hopefully it starts up and runs good. Ill probably have the starter tested over the weekend as well as possibly the alternator.
I also was hooked up with some industrial grade coolant for free. It's GREEN. Very green. So hopefully it will work well. The new Bosch water pump (crossing fingers) won't have a bad bearing like last time, however, that could be due to installation error.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714115/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714115/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714315/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714315/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714573/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714573/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
As for the oil cooler, I will have to drill out the old bolts and put in new ones. They were so rusted on the old chassis that even with soaking in PB Blaster, they sheared right off. Not a big deal though, cheap and easy fix.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714913/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714913/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Also have to pull the harness on this side up through what little room I have. I wasn't exactly thinking when I put the engine back in that it was for this side, so this was a dumb mistake by me.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355715409/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355715409/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
And then there's getting the harness back through the firewall... Oh what a PITA that is. Oh well, will get done.
Side note, my power windows go down far easier and quicker than they roll back up. What could be causing this?
Need to print more of my FSM so I can torque everything down properly. First start will probably be very rough because it's cold, it hasn't been run since July, and I'm hoping all the vacuum lines are right. Battery might also be a little undercharged. However, it's got all new NGK plugs and wires, pre-mix, a fuel pump switch (to prevent flooding I'm guessing), and a rebuilt intake. So hopefully it starts up and runs good. Ill probably have the starter tested over the weekend as well as possibly the alternator.
I also was hooked up with some industrial grade coolant for free. It's GREEN. Very green. So hopefully it will work well. The new Bosch water pump (crossing fingers) won't have a bad bearing like last time, however, that could be due to installation error.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714115/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714115/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714315/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714315/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714573/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714573/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
As for the oil cooler, I will have to drill out the old bolts and put in new ones. They were so rusted on the old chassis that even with soaking in PB Blaster, they sheared right off. Not a big deal though, cheap and easy fix.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714913/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355714913/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Also have to pull the harness on this side up through what little room I have. I wasn't exactly thinking when I put the engine back in that it was for this side, so this was a dumb mistake by me.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355715409/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6355715409/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
And then there's getting the harness back through the firewall... Oh what a PITA that is. Oh well, will get done.
Side note, my power windows go down far easier and quicker than they roll back up. What could be causing this?
#115
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I am unsure of the saturation level of the coolant. I'm hoping it's already 50/50. If not, then I'll just go buy the Peak coolant I usually use. I hate trying to mix coolant.
#117
Cake or Death?
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Also have to pull the harness on this side up through what little room I have. I wasn't exactly thinking when I put the engine back in that it was for this side, so this was a dumb mistake by me.
Remove the cold start assist reservoir- Mazda ditched it a long time ago- and you'll have better access to the wiring passthrough.
Side note, my power windows go down far easier and quicker than they roll back up. What could be causing this?
Remove the cold start assist reservoir- Mazda ditched it a long time ago- and you'll have better access to the wiring passthrough.
Side note, my power windows go down far easier and quicker than they roll back up. What could be causing this?
Or misaligned tracks.
#118
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@Pvill: I know, lol. It's just I always buy 50/50, so it's just annoying to do it. Oh well then.
@clokker: Gotta love the good ole 6.67x10^-11 factor... I dont think that is enough to pull the window down faster than it goes up. I will just check the rails. If anything I'll clean em up and apply some white lithium grease.
@clokker: Gotta love the good ole 6.67x10^-11 factor... I dont think that is enough to pull the window down faster than it goes up. I will just check the rails. If anything I'll clean em up and apply some white lithium grease.
#120
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I do the same thing. Also, got the sub zero do nothing fluid all removed. Dont have a block off plate but i just capped where the hose would go. the wiring on the driver side is also mind ******* me right now, so I'm trying to figure out how it all goes
#125
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Getting closer and closer every chance I get to work on it. Here it is as of today!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965203/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965203/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
If you have sharper eyes you probably noticed that I got rid of the cold start fluid reservoir and all things included. Question is, do I need that cylinder thing that was on top of it still? The one that had the cable and vacuum lines next to eachother.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965355/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965355/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
My aluminum-looking-but-not-really-aluminum radiator :P I will eventually upgrade to a Koyorad, but not until at least my rebuild on my other 6-port.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965449/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965449/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
It's starting to look like a complete engine bay again!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965645/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965645/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Held on by four in-line zip ties for now, have to fix that bracket still. Waiting to get it back on the lift to get at it from a decent angle.
And here is my new shift **** finally finished! I love the new design. Both pieces together are lighter than the previous ****. This one aslo sits nicer in the hand and makes shifting a nicer deal. Also since it's threaded on instead of JB welded, it can be removed easily whenever it needs to be.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392971933/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392971933/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Also since this new design thins out towards the bottom where the **** threads onto the shifter itself, it makes for tying a leather boot on much easier than before. Should also look much cleaner. I expect less noise from it than before too. I need to order the middle boots though from Malloy still.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965821/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965821/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965203/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965203/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
If you have sharper eyes you probably noticed that I got rid of the cold start fluid reservoir and all things included. Question is, do I need that cylinder thing that was on top of it still? The one that had the cable and vacuum lines next to eachother.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965355/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965355/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
My aluminum-looking-but-not-really-aluminum radiator :P I will eventually upgrade to a Koyorad, but not until at least my rebuild on my other 6-port.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965449/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965449/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
It's starting to look like a complete engine bay again!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965645/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965645/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Held on by four in-line zip ties for now, have to fix that bracket still. Waiting to get it back on the lift to get at it from a decent angle.
And here is my new shift **** finally finished! I love the new design. Both pieces together are lighter than the previous ****. This one aslo sits nicer in the hand and makes shifting a nicer deal. Also since it's threaded on instead of JB welded, it can be removed easily whenever it needs to be.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392971933/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392971933/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Also since this new design thins out towards the bottom where the **** threads onto the shifter itself, it makes for tying a leather boot on much easier than before. Should also look much cleaner. I expect less noise from it than before too. I need to order the middle boots though from Malloy still.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965821/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6392965821/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr