eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
#801
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
Are you running 93 oct or E85? Considering you mostly do autoX, water meth would probably be a worthwhile investment. If you have MS3X, you can use the mainboard injector drivers to PWM control a water methanol pump AND use a level sensor to throw the car into limp mode if the tank runs dry. I have been running 15-18 psi through a GT40R and S5 NA rotors all year with no issues (550cc/min water/meth). I'm upgrading to a EFR9180 and large street port this winter, but plan on keeping the S5 rotors and upping the nozzle size!
#802
Are you running 93 oct or E85? Considering you mostly do autoX, water meth would probably be a worthwhile investment. If you have MS3X, you can use the mainboard injector drivers to PWM control a water methanol pump AND use a level sensor to throw the car into limp mode if the tank runs dry. I have been running 15-18 psi through a GT40R and S5 NA rotors all year with no issues (550cc/min water/meth). I'm upgrading to a EFR9180 and large street port this winter, but plan on keeping the S5 rotors and upping the nozzle size!
I have an aquamist HFS-3 sitting in the work bench ready to go in over the winter. I have to run water only, but it should still help a lot.
#803
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Unfortunately?
There is no auto-x class in which Methanol injection is legal.
You can use 100% water injection in Street Prepared and Street Modified.
You can use 104 unleaded gas or E85 though in Street Prepared.
You can use E85 or any pump gas or race gas that does not include Oxygen or Nitrogen additives in Street Modified.
There is no auto-x class in which Methanol injection is legal.
You can use 100% water injection in Street Prepared and Street Modified.
You can use 104 unleaded gas or E85 though in Street Prepared.
You can use E85 or any pump gas or race gas that does not include Oxygen or Nitrogen additives in Street Modified.
#807
That and I had really bad starting issues for a while now until i did the starter relay mod, which masked the bad start issue.
So I'm not really sure when this happened, probably fairly early on in the engine's life when I was getting the ignition timing dialed in with the high comp rotors.
#809
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
I'm not really that observant
That and I had really bad starting issues for a while now until i did the starter relay mod, which masked the bad start issue.
So I'm not really sure when this happened, probably fairly early on in the engine's life when I was getting the ignition timing dialed in with the high comp rotors.
That and I had really bad starting issues for a while now until i did the starter relay mod, which masked the bad start issue.
So I'm not really sure when this happened, probably fairly early on in the engine's life when I was getting the ignition timing dialed in with the high comp rotors.
#810
Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Yes and No. The main thing to watch is any drastic changes in vacuum readings or if they begin to surge. Not always 100% guarantee that the engine is hurt but can be one of the first signs. You want to make sure there is consistency in the vacuum readings. My 04' reman engine on my TII still pulls more vacuum at idle than my FD does with 6k on ALS seals. Prior to the ALS seals they pulled about the same amount of vacuum.
#811
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Yes and No. The main thing to watch is any drastic changes in vacuum readings or if they begin to surge. Not always 100% guarantee that the engine is hurt but can be one of the first signs. You want to make sure there is consistency in the vacuum readings. My 04' reman engine on my TII still pulls more vacuum at idle than my FD does with 6k on ALS seals. Prior to the ALS seals they pulled about the same amount of vacuum.
Exactly what I meant. A change of 1.5 - 2 InHg at idle would be a significant change, a sign that something is not right.
#812
Finally got my turblown cast stainless manifold. Threw on some inconel studs and stage 8 locking nuts and it's looking pretty good.
next step is to head over to my welding buddy's house this Saturday and install everything so he can fab up the 3.5" downpipe.
Then I get to take it all apart again so I can fix the engine
next step is to head over to my welding buddy's house this Saturday and install everything so he can fab up the 3.5" downpipe.
Then I get to take it all apart again so I can fix the engine
#817
They're from trackspeed engineering:
Trackspeed Inconel Stud Kit (M10x1.50)
I also bought a set of stage 8 locking nuts (stage8.com) for the manifold-> engine studs (these studs are inconel stock) but I'm not sure the locking tabs are going to be able to actually hit anything when they rotate, so we'll see what I'll do about that...
Trackspeed Inconel Stud Kit (M10x1.50)
I also bought a set of stage 8 locking nuts (stage8.com) for the manifold-> engine studs (these studs are inconel stock) but I'm not sure the locking tabs are going to be able to actually hit anything when they rotate, so we'll see what I'll do about that...
#818
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
I've had really good luck using old rotor housing studs and nuts for turbo flange bolts. I've heard that the stock exhaust hardware is inconel, but not sure if that's true. It does seem to be much more resistant corrosion than the typical grade 8 stuff I've used before. With a Nord-loc 3/8" washer set, I've never had a exhaust bolt loosen up and they're usually just as tight coming off as on.
#819
prepped the turbo for install Friday night. I'm using the newer turblown wastegate bracket relocater. (the turbo has bolt holes for the bracket everywhere except where we need them).
I'm using a suprastore o-ringed oil drain fitting. I had to clearance the wastegate bracket to get the -10AN fitting on it:
Went over to my fabricator buddy's house Yesterday and spent the morning swapping turbos on his lift (which was nice )
BNR stage 2 vs. EFR 7670, it's not actually that much larger:
and then the issues started.... the turblown manifold pushes the turbo much further than stock (maybe 5"?)... and with the v-mount I really have no room for an intake... so I left it at my buddies house and we're going to figure that out... (sorry, I forgot to take a picture, but I have about 2.7" of clearance between the 3.5" turbo inlet and the fan shroud)
but since you can't really modify a cast stainless manifold, we started on the downpipe anyway: (just tacked for now):
3" -> 3.5" -> 3." w/ vbands on both ends.
I'm using a suprastore o-ringed oil drain fitting. I had to clearance the wastegate bracket to get the -10AN fitting on it:
Went over to my fabricator buddy's house Yesterday and spent the morning swapping turbos on his lift (which was nice )
BNR stage 2 vs. EFR 7670, it's not actually that much larger:
and then the issues started.... the turblown manifold pushes the turbo much further than stock (maybe 5"?)... and with the v-mount I really have no room for an intake... so I left it at my buddies house and we're going to figure that out... (sorry, I forgot to take a picture, but I have about 2.7" of clearance between the 3.5" turbo inlet and the fan shroud)
but since you can't really modify a cast stainless manifold, we started on the downpipe anyway: (just tacked for now):
3" -> 3.5" -> 3." w/ vbands on both ends.