When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
maybe i missed a memo, but if the problem is that the outside suspension doesn't compress, maybe go after that? the droop side is working, those tires are still on the ground...
how are you tuning the suspension? i know auto-x is different than road racing, but tire temps?
no, the issue is the car is rolling too much, and the main spring rate is not the culprit (because the travel isn't coming from the outside, it's all on the inside)
if I can get the roll down I can take some camber out and get more front braking ability out of the car, which is pretty huge in autocross. But I don't want to do this at the expense of cornering grip and/or corner exit rear grip...
my tire temps are fine (I have a pyrometer)
I also wouldn't mind keeping the splitter a bit closer to the ground during turns...
no, the issue is the car is rolling too much, and the main spring rate is not the culprit (because the travel isn't coming from the outside, it's all on the inside)
if I can get the roll down I can take some camber out and get more front braking ability out of the car, which is pretty huge in autocross. But I don't want to do this at the expense of cornering grip and/or corner exit rear grip...
my tire temps are fine (I have a pyrometer)
I also wouldn't mind keeping the splitter a bit closer to the ground during turns...
ah i see, its why i asked
yeah i'd loose the tender springs, see what happens.
I've been running PAC springs and really like them. They are really light and have extra travel like swift springs. Best of all they post all of the spring specs on their website.
I bought some 1" spring spacers as you can see in the picture, and then I realized I had over 1" of threading on the coilover sleeves so I ended up just taking the spacers off and running just the 6" spring.
I also took the front struts apart and lubed the housing a bit (they're inverted monotubes). everything looked fine inside.
I was going to do the rears too, but then I remember to remove the rear struts I had to take the wing off (can't open the hatch with the wing) so I decided against it... lol. that and with the torsen out back they're probably better off back there.
I also ordered a set of supernow front hubs in a moment of weakness... I figured if anyones car needs them it's mine considering it has 18x12s with 315 Hoosier A7s at a -10 offset...
They definitely look a lot prettier lol:
They also weigh a 12 oz (1.5 lbs combined) less:
They do use stock bearings (I verified the inner bearing too, but don't have a picture good enough to post)
tried to press in my old ARP studs (I run 30mm slip on spacers) and they didn't fit... the knurl diameter on the supernow hubs is a decent amount bigger.
after some measuring and researching the ones 99% of people would want are the ARP evoVIII studs. but they weren't quite long enough for my spacers.... so I had to get some ARP studs for a GM that are 7/16" instead of M12.... but they turned out fine I just have to keep track of which lug nuts are which...
what do you think of a wheel bearing spacer? i have supernow hubs aswell and just ordered the spacer that would fit the stock hubs and just pray they fit the supernow hubs aswell. They claim it will make a big impact on bearing longlivity.
what do you think of a wheel bearing spacer? i have supernow hubs aswell and just ordered the spacer that would fit the stock hubs and just pray they fit the supernow hubs aswell. They claim it will make a big impact on bearing longlivity.
I assume you're talking about the MSF spacers? Those are machine to fit... so I didn't really want to deal with that. the supernow hubs use stock bearings so they should work fine.
I'm wondering why we think this Supernow hub is better? Is it a better alloy?
I have not researched it at all.. Just wondering.
Im thinking of going the bearing spacer route with stock hubs.
it's billet/forged instead of cast like the stock piece, so it's going to be stronger. they also claim it doesn't expand when it gets hot like the stock hub does which minimizes bearing play when hot.
it's billet/forged instead of cast like the stock piece, so it's going to be stronger. they also claim it doesn't expand when it gets hot like the stock hub does which minimizes bearing play when hot.
My buddy Larry asked if he could co-drive to try to give me some tips, and I said sure mainly just so he could be my tire warmer (it was in the 40s to low 50s all day)
After 2 runs we ended up overflowing the catch can again... (I really need to empty that before every race), but I fished a gaterade bottle out of the trashcan and filled it (yes filled it) and we were back on our way
after a few less than stellar runs I put together a decent run for my last run:
I not only beat my co-driver by ~0.2 seconds but it was the fastest run of the day in a car (narrowly edging out 2 national champions in a CSP miata... on oldish tires). and was only behind the shifter-karts by 0.2
If I would have run in SM (like I should be) I would have been 6th in PAX... which is pretty awesome.
Here's a video of a stationary camera. I go by at 14:06 (I the car shoots some pretty awesome flames going up the hill) and my co driver @ 0:20 and 22:10:
just curious, have you tried racing on a track instead of just doing autocross?
Yeah, I've done a lot of HPDEs and stuff like that in my corolla. it's way easier on brake pads and tires and I don't have to worry about it blowing up.
I took my RX7 to 1 track day and it ran really hot and then ended up killing the engine when my fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose popped off (first time I killed my engine)... so that was no fun. I ended up taking my corolla out the next day and went significantly faster in it anyway. It's amazing how much speed you gain when you don't really worry about crashing the car
I haven't been in a while though... I was just talking to a buddy of mine a few weeks ago that I really need to get back to the track... probably in the spring, and probably with the corolla
Still no manifold for the EFR... so I haven't torn into the car at all yet.
Took the car out to a cars, karts, and coffee at the local go kart track, which was fun.
when I came home I did a quick compression check because the cars always really hard to start when hot... it didn't end well
front rotor: 85 psi
rear rotor: 43 psi...
I got what looked like 3 equal bounces on the compression gauge... so I'm guessing either I bent the ALS apex seals or trashed the housing.... (or both).
looks like I'll be doing an engine rebuild this winter too.
Still no manifold for the EFR... so I haven't torn into the car at all yet.
Took the car out to a cars, karts, and coffee at the local go kart track, which was fun.
when I came home I did a quick compression check because the cars always really hard to start when hot... it didn't end well
front rotor: 85 psi
rear rotor: 43 psi...
I got what looked like 3 equal bounces on the compression gauge... so I'm guessing either I bent the ALS apex seals or trashed the housing.... (or both).
looks like I'll be doing an engine rebuild this winter too.
The front housing was still in good shape so I reused it as is. The rear housing was trashed by the apex seal that broke last time so I replaced it with a brand new housing :-(
The rear housing was trashed by the apex seal that broke last time so I replaced it with a brand new housing :-(
, sorry man. I'm running ALS seals as well along with a few other friends and have had decent results thus far. I wonder if your rear rotor needs balancing? Might be worth it to have a rotary specific engine builder take a look at it?
Have you compression tested yours with the als seals? I'm interested to know what's "normal". My car still runs fine... But I'd rather fix it now than have it wear our more things inside...
I'm also afraid I might have dented the s5 na rotors...
09-01-15, 09:54 AM
