eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
#901
Rotisserie Engine
iTrader: (8)
The pump varies its speed from basically zero rpm up to its max to control flow - in essence it is a thermostat
You are doing all the things I wish I had the time and funds to do...Please let me know how you like the EFR. I think next year this time I will be getting one with the turblown cast manifold.
You are doing all the things I wish I had the time and funds to do...Please let me know how you like the EFR. I think next year this time I will be getting one with the turblown cast manifold.
Last edited by driftxsequence; 02-04-16 at 08:07 PM.
#902
The pump varies its speed from basically zero rpm up to its max to control flow - in essence it is a thermostat
You are doing all the things I wish I had the time and funds to do...Please let me know how you like the EFR. I think next year this time I will be getting one with the turblown cast manifold.
You are doing all the things I wish I had the time and funds to do...Please let me know how you like the EFR. I think next year this time I will be getting one with the turblown cast manifold.
I have owned this car for 12 years lol just think of yourself as a few years behind
#903
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
from the appendix:
http://www.scca.com/downloads/10062-...duced/download
So:
turbo rotary:
(( 0.9 x 2 )+1.3)+1.4 = 4.5L
SM turbo rotary = 1800 lbs + (200x4.5) = 2700 lbs
SSM turbo rotary = 1600 lbs + (200x4.5) = 2500 lbs
SSM N/A 3 rotor = 2540 lbs
note: all of these weights are without driver.
http://www.scca.com/downloads/10062-...duced/download
So:
turbo rotary:
(( 0.9 x 2 )+1.3)+1.4 = 4.5L
SM turbo rotary = 1800 lbs + (200x4.5) = 2700 lbs
SSM turbo rotary = 1600 lbs + (200x4.5) = 2500 lbs
SSM N/A 3 rotor = 2540 lbs
note: all of these weights are without driver.
#904
I highly recommend this part by xtreme rotaries....it is o-ringed towards the engine and has changeable o-ringed and threaded inlet/outlet....i got mine with an-16 (if i remember it correctly)
Its also cnc ported for great flow.
It requires side mounted alternator thou (u got no AC right).
Its also cnc ported for great flow.
It requires side mounted alternator thou (u got no AC right).
#905
I highly recommend this part by xtreme rotaries....it is o-ringed towards the engine and has changeable o-ringed and threaded inlet/outlet....i got mine with an-16 (if i remember it correctly)
Its also cnc ported for great flow.
It requires side mounted alternator thou (u got no AC right).
Its also cnc ported for great flow.
It requires side mounted alternator thou (u got no AC right).
I bit off a bit more than I could chew this winter, so that might have to wait till next winter. for now the stock housing will work just fine.
#906
small update:
downpipe came back from swain-tech ceramic coated:
White Lightning Exhaust Coatings | Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings
also, it's always bugged me that my alternator flipped out a while back and ran at 16V for a while... (and fried my wideband controller and gauge I think), so I sent if off to get rebuild and upgraded by IRP. it's now 140A and looks all fancy and nice. It should help with the electric water pump and possibly some other stuff I have going on down the pipe...
IRP 140 Amp Alternator | IRPerformance
I also took the turbo coolant return nipple off the water neck and threaded it for 1/4"? NPT. need to get a NPT to -6AN adapter for it.
downpipe came back from swain-tech ceramic coated:
White Lightning Exhaust Coatings | Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings
also, it's always bugged me that my alternator flipped out a while back and ran at 16V for a while... (and fried my wideband controller and gauge I think), so I sent if off to get rebuild and upgraded by IRP. it's now 140A and looks all fancy and nice. It should help with the electric water pump and possibly some other stuff I have going on down the pipe...
IRP 140 Amp Alternator | IRPerformance
I also took the turbo coolant return nipple off the water neck and threaded it for 1/4"? NPT. need to get a NPT to -6AN adapter for it.
#907
I also went and got a gallon of e85 to test with from a local station where the owner claims to have "summer blend" in the tank all year round. In Maryland most stations have 3 different blends of e85 throughout the year with varying amounts of ethanol in it... this is the main reason you need a flexfuel sensor, but you need a high concentration to get a baseline tune with so the ECU can interpolate.
tested it last night and it seems legit... ~88% ethanol (I need to get more precise pouring containers to do this in the future, don't worry internet, I know all about the meniscus):
onto experiment number 2.... to see if the fancy redline 2-stroke oil I got for alcohol fuels stays suspended in e85.
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Two-Stroke Oils - Two Cycle Alcohol Oil
tested it last night and it seems legit... ~88% ethanol (I need to get more precise pouring containers to do this in the future, don't worry internet, I know all about the meniscus):
onto experiment number 2.... to see if the fancy redline 2-stroke oil I got for alcohol fuels stays suspended in e85.
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Two-Stroke Oils - Two Cycle Alcohol Oil
#909
I had my last downpipe coated and it held up great. this is after about 2 years?
last time I coated my stock turbo manifold and turbine housing too and I probably wouldn't do that again (at least on a rotary). I think they're just too hot and it looked like the coating was melting off? it would bead up and fall off... and was just slowing turning darker and darker. I emailed swaintech about it and they said it was "normal" but I'm not so sure.
I'll be using different heat shields on my turbine and manifold this time around. but for the downpipe it's great.
last time I coated my stock turbo manifold and turbine housing too and I probably wouldn't do that again (at least on a rotary). I think they're just too hot and it looked like the coating was melting off? it would bead up and fall off... and was just slowing turning darker and darker. I emailed swaintech about it and they said it was "normal" but I'm not so sure.
I'll be using different heat shields on my turbine and manifold this time around. but for the downpipe it's great.
#912
slowly progressing...
took out the "back seats" permanently:
also started taking apart the rear suspension to remove the diff among other things:
I was excited to use the ford specific axle removal tool (OTC 205-502) I got after the last time I had to remove an axle (this axles are very very stubborn) and was sad to see that the tool really doesn't work at all... I'm a bit confused how it's supposed to work. so it's more pry-bars and hammers...
took out the "back seats" permanently:
also started taking apart the rear suspension to remove the diff among other things:
I was excited to use the ford specific axle removal tool (OTC 205-502) I got after the last time I had to remove an axle (this axles are very very stubborn) and was sad to see that the tool really doesn't work at all... I'm a bit confused how it's supposed to work. so it's more pry-bars and hammers...
#913
I also noticed that my rear AWR top mounts had some play in them so I took them apart.... surprise! they have the wrong bearing in them for the bearing retainer they used and have 0.013" of up and down play (after the 0.05" spacer they put in there to try to fix it)
bearing that was in there: YPB10T
YPB-T High Misalignment Stainless Steel Series Spherical Bearings | Self-Lubricating PTFE Lined Spherical Bearing | QA1
bearing that the bearing retainer was designed for: WPB12T
WPB-T & WPB-TG Wide Stainless Steel Series Spherical Bearings | Self-Lubricating PTFE Lined Spherical Bearing | QA1
YPB10T thickness: 0.567"
WPB12T thickness: 0.630"
so the difference is obviously 0.063".... so why they though a 0.050" spacer would be "good enough" is beyond me.
Just another instance of AWR half-assing products... /rant
bearing that was in there: YPB10T
YPB-T High Misalignment Stainless Steel Series Spherical Bearings | Self-Lubricating PTFE Lined Spherical Bearing | QA1
bearing that the bearing retainer was designed for: WPB12T
WPB-T & WPB-TG Wide Stainless Steel Series Spherical Bearings | Self-Lubricating PTFE Lined Spherical Bearing | QA1
YPB10T thickness: 0.567"
WPB12T thickness: 0.630"
so the difference is obviously 0.063".... so why they though a 0.050" spacer would be "good enough" is beyond me.
Just another instance of AWR half-assing products... /rant
#915
swapping the 5.14s out for 4.56s. With the new turbo, I should have a decent amount more bottom end, and I was running out of steam pretty quick on straights with the 5.14s and the BNR stage 2.
When I did the math for max mph in 2nd, I didn't really take into account a stock port turbo engine isn't going to make much power at 8k+
When I did the math for max mph in 2nd, I didn't really take into account a stock port turbo engine isn't going to make much power at 8k+
#916
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
slowly progressing...
took out the "back seats" permanently:
also started taking apart the rear suspension to remove the diff among other things:
I was excited to use the ford specific axle removal tool (OTC 205-502) I got after the last time I had to remove an axle (this axles are very very stubborn) and was sad to see that the tool really doesn't work at all... I'm a bit confused how it's supposed to work. so it's more pry-bars and hammers...
took out the "back seats" permanently:
also started taking apart the rear suspension to remove the diff among other things:
I was excited to use the ford specific axle removal tool (OTC 205-502) I got after the last time I had to remove an axle (this axles are very very stubborn) and was sad to see that the tool really doesn't work at all... I'm a bit confused how it's supposed to work. so it's more pry-bars and hammers...
Ends up I should have done so anyway, as I decided to replace the rear wheel bearings. Just found this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...ite-up-326078/
Let me know if you find any easier methods, as I don't own a press. Always looking for an excuse to buy new tools though.
#917
I just got done rebuilding my diff. I simply removed the half axles from the axle stubs. It was a little tight but was able to separate without much trouble. Much easier than separating at the hub.
Ends up I should have done so anyway, as I decided to replace the rear wheel bearings. Just found this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...ite-up-326078/
Let me know if you find any easier methods, as I don't own a press. Always looking for an excuse to buy new tools though.
Ends up I should have done so anyway, as I decided to replace the rear wheel bearings. Just found this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...ite-up-326078/
Let me know if you find any easier methods, as I don't own a press. Always looking for an excuse to buy new tools though.
but yeah, if you're going to do rear wheel bearings, I highly recommend getting a press, they're super useful, I use mine all the time. Harbor Freight sells some for fairly cheap that work fine.
#918
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
As you might have seen I replaced the upper rear control arm bushing with the PBM unit. It was pretty easy if you have not done that yet. The PBM bushing is a nice piece.
The OTD CV tool is supposed to act like a wedge and pop the CV out when it gets to the curved part. You also have the removed seal protectors on the inners which take up extra space. I suspect that tool woudl work a bit better on the Cobra/Tbird. Mark VIII diffs. A lot of guys make a wedge with a 2X6 (with a crescent or divit in the center for more penetration) or 2X4 to get the axles out. They are a little harder to remove with the Truetrac because there are no real grooves for the c clips to sit in to sort of "capture" them, so you have to force them to compress.
If you ever got frustrated, you can just remove the inner large cv boot clamp and simply pull the cv joint out of the inner cup. Then you can pawn the inner cup removal to the rear end shop It is slightly messy, but it will work to get the axles out in a pinch or for a rebuild.
I'm sorry AWR has failed you again.
The OTD CV tool is supposed to act like a wedge and pop the CV out when it gets to the curved part. You also have the removed seal protectors on the inners which take up extra space. I suspect that tool woudl work a bit better on the Cobra/Tbird. Mark VIII diffs. A lot of guys make a wedge with a 2X6 (with a crescent or divit in the center for more penetration) or 2X4 to get the axles out. They are a little harder to remove with the Truetrac because there are no real grooves for the c clips to sit in to sort of "capture" them, so you have to force them to compress.
If you ever got frustrated, you can just remove the inner large cv boot clamp and simply pull the cv joint out of the inner cup. Then you can pawn the inner cup removal to the rear end shop It is slightly messy, but it will work to get the axles out in a pinch or for a rebuild.
I'm sorry AWR has failed you again.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 02-24-16 at 06:53 PM.
#919
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
I'm running a ronin speedworks IRS ford 8.8" rear diff and axles.... so the axles no longer split at the stub shafts but yeah, if you're going to do rear wheel bearings, I highly recommend getting a press, they're super useful, I use mine all the time. Harbor Freight sells some for fairly cheap that work fine.
Search results for: 'press'
I admit, I haven't been able to read your entire build thread yet. Why did you decide to change to the Ford 8.8?
#920
I ordered some stuff from RHDJapan a while back and was being fiscally irresponsible and ordered some Super now upper bearings and DTSS eliminators to replace the delrin stuff I had back there:
Super Now Rear Arm Rear Pillow Bushing - RX-7 FC3S - RHDJapan
Super Now Super Toe Control Pillow Bushing - RX-7 FC3S - RHDJapan
The OTD CV tool is supposed to act like a wedge and pop the CV out when it gets to the curved part. You also have the removed seal protectors on the inners which take up extra space. I suspect that tool woudl work a bit better on the Cobra/Tbird. Mark VIII diffs. A lot of guys make a wedge with a 2X6 (with a crescent or divit in the center for more penetration) or 2X4 to get the axles out. They are a little harder to remove with the Truetrac because there are no real grooves for the c clips to sit in to sort of "capture" them, so you have to force them to compress.
mostly because gears sets are plentiful and cheap (gears above 4.33s on t2 diffs are super expensive, on the 8.8 their $200-300). They also have nice diff options that are also cheap.
#921
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
Why does SuperNow have you put a bearing back into the rear trailing arm? Is that intended to be an upgrade if you keep DTSS? That is all I can think of.
I believe H frame presses are a little stronger all things being equal. Also a little less top heavy, possibly less working area.. Depends on what you are doing.
I believe H frame presses are a little stronger all things being equal. Also a little less top heavy, possibly less working area.. Depends on what you are doing.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 02-25-16 at 02:56 PM.
#922
I'm using it because that and PBM are the only other options other than the delrin ones I had and I'd rather support super now... and trust them to have decent clearances on theirs.
Last edited by eage8; 02-25-16 at 09:27 PM.
#924
Worked on the car a bit last night.
I messed with the ford half shaft tool some more. recalling the slide hammer attachment I got for my corolla's axles which is worth it's weight in gold (but doesn't fit on the ford axles because their too big):
I threw the hook attachment on my slide hammer and hooked it around the ford axle tool and slide hammered the axles right out. it worked really well.
then I dropped the diff. after a while trying to get the diff out without dropping the subframe I game up and ended up dropping it anyway:
I messed with the ford half shaft tool some more. recalling the slide hammer attachment I got for my corolla's axles which is worth it's weight in gold (but doesn't fit on the ford axles because their too big):
I threw the hook attachment on my slide hammer and hooked it around the ford axle tool and slide hammered the axles right out. it worked really well.
then I dropped the diff. after a while trying to get the diff out without dropping the subframe I game up and ended up dropping it anyway:
#925
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
LOL, I tried the same thing. Thought it would work but was much easier to just drop the subframe. Now putting the subframe back in by myself was interesting. Two jacks and only two hands to guide things is comical. I ended up getting it as close as possible with the jacks and then had to guide it by hand while I used my legs to raise the jacks. I felt like I was doing a Suzanne Somers Thighmaster workout.