eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
#651
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also you should bypass/replace the clutch switch, its an add on in the circuit for Americans, and they go bad
#652
Currently I have an 18" battery cable going from the starter bolt directly to the frame rale with a ground point I recently sanded. that part should be fine.
I tried running a ground wire from the battery all the way to the starter and it didn't seem to help at all.
#653
Rock*
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My battery is in the back, and I've been through this whole ordeal a few times now.
Currently I have an 18" battery cable going from the starter bolt directly to the frame rale with a ground point I recently sanded. that part should be fine.
I tried running a ground wire from the battery all the way to the starter and it didn't seem to help at all.
Currently I have an 18" battery cable going from the starter bolt directly to the frame rale with a ground point I recently sanded. that part should be fine.
I tried running a ground wire from the battery all the way to the starter and it didn't seem to help at all.
#654
Doin' Work Son!
iTrader: (8)
This had me breaking my noggin for over a year, I have an S4 TII that had starting issues also. I found the problem was that the starter solenoid wire only had 4.5v going to it when I would hit the key and depress the clutch pedal.
A buddy of mine always suggested I throw in a relay in between, so I did. Got full 12v going to it and it cranks over beautifully now. In the near future though I will be looking to fix the voltage drop, where ever it may be, since I don't want it to get so bad that even the relay wont kick over.
A buddy of mine always suggested I throw in a relay in between, so I did. Got full 12v going to it and it cranks over beautifully now. In the near future though I will be looking to fix the voltage drop, where ever it may be, since I don't want it to get so bad that even the relay wont kick over.
#655
Fistful of steel
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I wouldn't worry about the gear noise.
The noise is from how the front of the diff is mounted to the rear subframe.
Mazda used a very soft coupling between the diff nose and the subframe to soften diff vibrations to the chassis through the subframe and hung a huge rubber damper off the coupling/diff mount as well.
If I adjust my runner pinion snubber so it touches the top of the stock TII diff nose the stock Mazda rear end gear whine is very noticeable, so I have it with a slight gap so it just whines when I accelerate.
Congratulations, you just got a new race car noise.
The noise is from how the front of the diff is mounted to the rear subframe.
Mazda used a very soft coupling between the diff nose and the subframe to soften diff vibrations to the chassis through the subframe and hung a huge rubber damper off the coupling/diff mount as well.
If I adjust my runner pinion snubber so it touches the top of the stock TII diff nose the stock Mazda rear end gear whine is very noticeable, so I have it with a slight gap so it just whines when I accelerate.
Congratulations, you just got a new race car noise.
The gear noise from my 8.8 with Ford 3.73 gears is about equal to my old NA Mazda diff. Both were mounted fully solid with solid subframe bushings.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 04-17-15 at 09:48 PM.
#656
Rotary Motoring
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Partly, yes but the non OEM gear sets are always louder than the OE Ford gear sets.
The gear noise from my 8.8 is about equal to my old NA Mazda diff. Both were mounted fully solid with solid subframe bushings.
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it sounds like we are agreeing any diff mounted solidly to the front subframe will transmit a lot of gear noise.
The gear noise from my 8.8 is about equal to my old NA Mazda diff. Both were mounted fully solid with solid subframe bushings.
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it sounds like we are agreeing any diff mounted solidly to the front subframe will transmit a lot of gear noise.
#657
Partly, yes but the non OEM gear sets are always louder than the OE Ford gear sets.
The gear noise from my 8.8 is about equal to my old NA Mazda diff. Both were mounted fully solid with solid subframe bushings.
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it sounds like we are agreeing any diff mounted solidly to the front subframe will transmit a lot of gear noise.
The gear noise from my 8.8 is about equal to my old NA Mazda diff. Both were mounted fully solid with solid subframe bushings.
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it sounds like we are agreeing any diff mounted solidly to the front subframe will transmit a lot of gear noise.
mazda-comp bushings in the back and the stock explorer bushing in the front.
I need to put the car back up in the air to see if the case around the front mount is hitting the toe control link's mount. I assume that's all it is. hopefully I can clearance that a bit and it'll get better.
#658
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
Partly, yes but the non OEM gear sets are always louder than the OE Ford gear sets.
The gear noise from my 8.8 is about equal to my old NA Mazda diff. Both were mounted fully solid with solid subframe bushings.
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it sounds like we are agreeing any diff mounted solidly to the front subframe will transmit a lot of gear noise.
The gear noise from my 8.8 is about equal to my old NA Mazda diff. Both were mounted fully solid with solid subframe bushings.
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it sounds like we are agreeing any diff mounted solidly to the front subframe will transmit a lot of gear noise.
I bet your car gets it with the 5.14 gears Mike! You are ready for the V8 swap now
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 04-17-15 at 09:52 PM.
#659
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
I will almost guarantee that the noise is the front case hitting the subframe mount if you used the Ronin rubber front isolator.
There is some inherent clunking out of the 8.8 itself as well, like in a parking lot creeping on and off throttle, or on the freeway at cruise getting on and off the gas.
There is some inherent clunking out of the 8.8 itself as well, like in a parking lot creeping on and off throttle, or on the freeway at cruise getting on and off the gas.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 04-17-15 at 09:51 PM.
#660
Rotary Motoring
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Yes, but my diff isn't solid mounted, it's all rubber
mazda-comp bushings in the back and the stock explorer bushing in the front.
Not at all like the stock Mazda 1" + thick block of soft rubber mounted in shear. You know that because its not moving all over the place...
mazda-comp bushings in the back and the stock explorer bushing in the front.
Not at all like the stock Mazda 1" + thick block of soft rubber mounted in shear. You know that because its not moving all over the place...
#661
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Ford rebuilds a lot of those diffs under warranty, we even did with the B trucks for a while, until we figured out that the clunking and whining was part of the design...
#662
First event of the season is in the bag!
First place in SSM, would have been 5th in SM behind 2 very fast cars (an evo and sti both with 500+ hp, aero, and tires the size of mine)
the car is much better to drive with the new final drive, I don't feel like I'm just waiting for power out of every corner. I just need to work on throttle modulation now
Video of my Final and fastest run:
At about 30 seconds in I'm hitting 9000 rpms and it's runnning out of breath pretty well, but on this course at least, I think it was a fine comprimise. I'll probably raise the rev limiter and work on the fuel map up there. I don't think it's really tuned, I think I just left it super rich...
One problem I did have is it puked gear oil out of my rushed diff breather... luckily I was running with the CAM class (classic american muscle) so they had bigger fish to fry when they can looking for the car that was leaking oil on course LOL.
It shouldn't be too hard to fix. just need to get a hose on it and pipe it to a better breather setup.
First place in SSM, would have been 5th in SM behind 2 very fast cars (an evo and sti both with 500+ hp, aero, and tires the size of mine)
the car is much better to drive with the new final drive, I don't feel like I'm just waiting for power out of every corner. I just need to work on throttle modulation now
Video of my Final and fastest run:
At about 30 seconds in I'm hitting 9000 rpms and it's runnning out of breath pretty well, but on this course at least, I think it was a fine comprimise. I'll probably raise the rev limiter and work on the fuel map up there. I don't think it's really tuned, I think I just left it super rich...
One problem I did have is it puked gear oil out of my rushed diff breather... luckily I was running with the CAM class (classic american muscle) so they had bigger fish to fry when they can looking for the car that was leaking oil on course LOL.
It shouldn't be too hard to fix. just need to get a hose on it and pipe it to a better breather setup.
#663
Here is a video from a stationary camera we had setup at the event, at about 7:55 is my buddy's 300+ hp turbo mint GSL-SE, followed by me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZqI...utu.be&t=7m55s
I need to get closer to cones...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZqI...utu.be&t=7m55s
I need to get closer to cones...
#665
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So after doing the diff swap, how much of the street driveability is taken away from the car? Besides the noise, is the cruising down the highway reasonable? Are you closer to taking it to events on a trailer?
#666
I don't have a trailer due to cost (I would have to buy a tow vehicle) and just plain hassle... driving to event is as good of a shake down as any
#667
Junior Member
Here is a video from a stationary camera we had setup at the event, at about 7:55 is my buddy's 300+ hp turbo mint GSL-SE, followed by me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZqI...utu.be&t=7m55s
I need to get closer to cones...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZqI...utu.be&t=7m55s
I need to get closer to cones...
#668
Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
First event of the season is in the bag!
First place in SSM, would have been 5th in SM behind 2 very fast cars (an evo and sti both with 500+ hp, aero, and tires the size of mine)
the car is much better to drive with the new final drive, I don't feel like I'm just waiting for power out of every corner. I just need to work on throttle modulation now
Video of my Final and fastest run:
2015 WDCR SOLO event #1 - YouTube
At about 30 seconds in I'm hitting 9000 rpms and it's runnning out of breath pretty well, but on this course at least, I think it was a fine comprimise. I'll probably raise the rev limiter and work on the fuel map up there. I don't think it's really tuned, I think I just left it super rich...
One problem I did have is it puked gear oil out of my rushed diff breather... luckily I was running with the CAM class (classic american muscle) so they had bigger fish to fry when they can looking for the car that was leaking oil on course LOL.
It shouldn't be too hard to fix. just need to get a hose on it and pipe it to a better breather setup.
First place in SSM, would have been 5th in SM behind 2 very fast cars (an evo and sti both with 500+ hp, aero, and tires the size of mine)
the car is much better to drive with the new final drive, I don't feel like I'm just waiting for power out of every corner. I just need to work on throttle modulation now
Video of my Final and fastest run:
2015 WDCR SOLO event #1 - YouTube
At about 30 seconds in I'm hitting 9000 rpms and it's runnning out of breath pretty well, but on this course at least, I think it was a fine comprimise. I'll probably raise the rev limiter and work on the fuel map up there. I don't think it's really tuned, I think I just left it super rich...
One problem I did have is it puked gear oil out of my rushed diff breather... luckily I was running with the CAM class (classic american muscle) so they had bigger fish to fry when they can looking for the car that was leaking oil on course LOL.
It shouldn't be too hard to fix. just need to get a hose on it and pipe it to a better breather setup.
#674
Hopefully I fixed my diff vent issues. Here is my quick vent I threw on it to get it running:
Not surprisingly, it puked diff oil pretty bad once I started autocrossing
Here is the new vent setup, I didn't have any 3/8" fuel line, but I did have some -6AN line, which didn't want to go over the fitting very well, hopefully it doesn't leak.
It basically goes from the diff up to the bottom of the trunk floor, over the fuel lines and then down into a filter mounted on the gas tank corner. ideally the filter wouldn't be pointed down... but this way the hose travels uphill more and for longer than it would if I had to put a filter on top of it. The line is also going towards the opposite corner of the diff, so when it's sloshing to the right (vent side) it won't go down the line that's going to the left and vice-versa. Hopefully it works out.
Sorry about the terrible pictures...
I also got a screaming deal on a set of 4 brand new 335/30/18 Hoosier A6s.... so I test fit one on the back today.... and they don't fit lol
so... that sucks.
right now the car is at ~ -0.8* of camber in the back (I had to choke up big time on the subframe link to get the pinion angle right). so if I get the rear camber down I might be able to fit them... we'll see, I'll play around with them a bit more in the future before I sell them.
Not surprisingly, it puked diff oil pretty bad once I started autocrossing
Here is the new vent setup, I didn't have any 3/8" fuel line, but I did have some -6AN line, which didn't want to go over the fitting very well, hopefully it doesn't leak.
It basically goes from the diff up to the bottom of the trunk floor, over the fuel lines and then down into a filter mounted on the gas tank corner. ideally the filter wouldn't be pointed down... but this way the hose travels uphill more and for longer than it would if I had to put a filter on top of it. The line is also going towards the opposite corner of the diff, so when it's sloshing to the right (vent side) it won't go down the line that's going to the left and vice-versa. Hopefully it works out.
Sorry about the terrible pictures...
I also got a screaming deal on a set of 4 brand new 335/30/18 Hoosier A6s.... so I test fit one on the back today.... and they don't fit lol
so... that sucks.
right now the car is at ~ -0.8* of camber in the back (I had to choke up big time on the subframe link to get the pinion angle right). so if I get the rear camber down I might be able to fit them... we'll see, I'll play around with them a bit more in the future before I sell them.