eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
#202
turbo
manifold
wastegate...
it adds up fast
that and if I were to go single turbo I'd want to get something really nice like a Garrett GTX which makes it even more expensive.
currently I'm just planning to changing from my current boost controller (greddy profec b spec2) to a megasquirt controlled valve to hopefully make the turbo spool up a bit quicker and make it a bit more manageable at part throttle.
Originally Posted by 87FCna
Hey eage. Ever thought about a twin turbo setup for autox?
The next thing on the list of things to do is to get it tuned a bit better, change over the boost control to megasquirt and then start adding aero
I also have a a package full of goodies that I mentioned earlier on it's way than isn't here yet
#204
The way home wasn't quite as smooth.... on the second day right before my runs my radiator fan decided it wasn't turning on anymore. I haven't debugged it yet, but hopefully it's just a bad relay. I just bypassed the relay and ran the fan on all the time for the rest of my runs and all the way home...
when I was about 30 minutes from my house the car developed an exhaust leak which killed the turbo response.... hopefully this is just a loose nut before the turbo, but I have a feeling I lost part of a gasket.... the car now only boosts to like 4-5 psi at full throttle. looks like the turbo is probably coming out again
when I was about 30 minutes from my house the car developed an exhaust leak which killed the turbo response.... hopefully this is just a loose nut before the turbo, but I have a feeling I lost part of a gasket.... the car now only boosts to like 4-5 psi at full throttle. looks like the turbo is probably coming out again
First I tested the fan relay a few days ago, and it's fine, so it's either the switched 12V or the megasquirt grounding it... I need to hook my laptop up to it and see what the ms is up to, the 12V looks fine.
I took the oil cooler off, rotary extreme is sending me an additional kit to move the oil cooler to the front of my radiator. hopefully that'll fix my oil cooling issues. While I had the oil cooler off I also replaced the oil thermostat with a new mazda piece... it can't hurt.
I checked the exhaust nuts, a bunch of them were really loose which is probably the cause of my exhaust leak, I tightened all the nuts I could reach up, hopefully the manifold -> engine nuts I couldn't get to are ok.
I also noticed the circlip fell off my wastegate actuator and it wasn't even connected anymore.... there's the cause of my low boost I think after I took my turbo apart to insect it I replaced the circlip with one that probably wasn't exactly the right size (probably SAE). anyone know where to get a wastegate circlip? I replaced it with a snap ring thing... (not really sure what's its called, but it's a conical button type thing that goes on easy one way but doesn't come off easily.... it's also a bit too big, but it should hold it for now. I'll keep an eye on it.
lastly one of my sway bar endlink bolts seems to have jump ship... no where too be found. that explains why the car was rolling so much in this picture:
I lost the bearing spacers which is annoying... but I replaced them with some of the ones off the rear mazdatrix kit I had lying around (since I took off the rear sway bar)
#205
The package I've been waiting for finally arrived These will be my new autocross wheels. The 18x10.5 Enkei RPF1s just aren't wide enough
18x12 +20 Rota P45R3:
Put them on the scale this morning and they weigh in at 23 lbs each which is about the same as 3 peice CCWs that cost 3 times as much.
It'll be tight in the front... We'll see how it goes
18x12 +20 Rota P45R3:
Put them on the scale this morning and they weigh in at 23 lbs each which is about the same as 3 peice CCWs that cost 3 times as much.
It'll be tight in the front... We'll see how it goes
#206
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holy S*%&t those are big, you're going too have a really hard time getting the 195's on there!
#209
lol, the plan is to run the same 315/30/18s I currently have on the front (just on the edge of the "recommended" wheel size from hoosier) on the rear I have a friend with a dead 335/30/18 that I'll be test fitting... but until I can find some used 335 r-comps for cheap, I'll be running 315s in the back too.
#214
don't hate
what offset are you using on the front? even with the 18x10.5s and 315s I could only manage a 0 offset.
at this point my scrub radius is 2" away from the stock wheel... I'm not sure what the scrub radius on that is though, but my increased SAI fixes some of it... so I don't think its too bad...
what offset are you using on the front? even with the 18x10.5s and 315s I could only manage a 0 offset.
at this point my scrub radius is 2" away from the stock wheel... I'm not sure what the scrub radius on that is though, but my increased SAI fixes some of it... so I don't think its too bad...
#218
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
at this point my scrub radius is 2" away from the stock wheel... I'm not sure what the scrub radius on that is though, but my increased SAI fixes some of it... so I don't think its too bad...
This is what I was thinking too. You should measure your scrub radius for us!
I agree going from stock 0 to -1 camber up front to inclining the struts several degrees more (-4 to -5 degrees camber?) and increasing tire outer diameter should help bring your scrub radius back down.
This is what I was thinking too. You should measure your scrub radius for us!
I agree going from stock 0 to -1 camber up front to inclining the struts several degrees more (-4 to -5 degrees camber?) and increasing tire outer diameter should help bring your scrub radius back down.
#219
This is what I was thinking too. You should measure your scrub radius for us!
I agree going from stock 0 to -1 camber up front to inclining the struts several degrees more (-4 to -5 degrees camber?) and increasing tire outer diameter should help bring your scrub radius back down.
I agree going from stock 0 to -1 camber up front to inclining the struts several degrees more (-4 to -5 degrees camber?) and increasing tire outer diameter should help bring your scrub radius back down.
I'm only running -3.5* of camber. and I don't really want to run anymore so I can avoid jacking issues with the large wheels/tires. plus the camber plates are now maxed out so any more camber would have to come from extending the ball joint. slotting strut ears doesn't increase SAI.
also, the 315/18s are only 25.6" tall so 0.6" taller than stock. .3" extension per side probably doesn't do much of anything to that scrub radius...
#221
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
plus the camber plates are now maxed out
You might already be employing this trick, but if your camber plates are thick enough/made thick enough you can push the strut over so the nut or even the strut shaft interferes with the hole in the body instead of some part of the pillow ball carrier.
If at some point you decide you need more camber with little work.
slotting strut ears doesn't increase SAI.
Yes. Conversely, you can increase your SIA at the strut top and take camber out at the strut mounting ear to decrease scrub radius.
You might already be employing this trick, but if your camber plates are thick enough/made thick enough you can push the strut over so the nut or even the strut shaft interferes with the hole in the body instead of some part of the pillow ball carrier.
If at some point you decide you need more camber with little work.
slotting strut ears doesn't increase SAI.
Yes. Conversely, you can increase your SIA at the strut top and take camber out at the strut mounting ear to decrease scrub radius.
#223
I think -3.5* is fine for now though, I have a tire pyrometer that I'll be verifying with.
That would allow me to run less offset too... but I think it would start doing some pretty wonky things with jacking... too much SAI is bad even if it lowers the scrub radius. I think it's fine for now.