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For those that have gone through the process, any tips and tricks to making sure things go as smoothly as possible?
Everything is in pieces currently so is there anything I should look for that might suggest the housings or irons should be replaced (other than scoring, of which there is none)?
I did notice on one of the wings (?) about 1/2 to 1 inch below apex area there is a gouge in one of the rotors that is between 1/8 and 1/4 inch long and probably the depth of a sheet of paper and maybe 1/16 in wide (I do not have a picture of it at the moment but will upload one tonight). Should this make the rotor unusable? Is there a way to have the rotor surfaced to eliminate this gouge or should it just become wall art?
One-piece or two-piece apex seals? The engine will be (most likely) going into an N/A 88 vert that will only be driven on street.
If you want to do it on the cheap, you could probably file that gouge smooth so it doesn't damage the housing, if that won't sit right with you replace the rotor. But it being a n/a, if your just wanting a cruiser, you'd be fine
If you want to do it on the cheap, you could probably file that gouge smooth so it doesn't damage the housing, if that won't sit right with you replace the rotor. But it being a n/a, if your just wanting a cruiser, you'd be fine
Right on. As long as there are not catastrophic issues from trying to use it I may do just that. Unless I can find an un-gouged one for a decent price. This engine will really just be used in the car while I rebuild the one that is currently in it so I don't want to go crazy on buying parts.
That is the hope. Scouring the classified section looking for any that pop up. The engine came with D and E tolerance rotors. Not sure how crucial it is to match them but if it is I can see that making finding the right rotor a bit more difficult.
Well stage one of cleaning is done on the gouged rotor. I did my best to stick with the Aaron Cake method but there is this mystical stuff he uses call Dunk for his first wash (maybe not mythical except outside of Canada). Since I couldn't find that and was too lazy to stop for kerosene I used some Chem-dip 0996. 30 minutes soaking per side and green scotchbrite (with some help from a brass bristle detail brush).
Comparison of clean and not clean
Before pic of the left rotor in other pic
Last edited by pda041376; 07-26-16 at 10:10 PM.
Reason: pictures
Damn nice results. Much quicker than my 30 soak per side and scrub method as well. I know what I will be picking up on the way home. Thanks!
No worries man. It is a bit on the pricey side but well worth it for the time you save. Just be sure to keep it off your skin, it will do all sorts of crazy to it (gloves are a must).
If it's just an NA engine, then the little dent in the rotor is inconsequential. As mentioned, file it down smooth and move on. Turbo engine making big power, different story. A little area like that can cause a hot spot and encourage detonation.
If it's just an NA engine, then the little dent in the rotor is inconsequential. As mentioned, file it down smooth and move on. Turbo engine making big power, different story. A little area like that can cause a hot spot and encourage detonation.
Many thanks for reaffirming. Time to move forward then.
07-25-16, 11:47 AM
About to start a rebuild
.. Still had to do all the grooves after that though 
