91 t2 build advice
#1
country w@nk
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91 t2 build advice
Seeking as much good advice here on my current build journey I'm fixing to embark on. Its a 91 t2 that I purchased last summer that came with a few bolt-ons like greddy FM, hks silent back exhaust, Turbo timer,apexi boost controller (wired wrong),hks wg, walboro fuel pump,spec lightweight flywheel, koyo radiator, and a hks bov. I have rebuilt the 12a a few times successful but never messed with the 13b(assuming the difference is minimum ). Anyways I'm just wanting advice on things I should replace that could prevent harm from a fresh rebuild and things needed to obtain around 400 at the wheels. Also the car was poorly taken care of and the individual did not know what he was doing especially with the electronics.
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Here is a great FREE 13B rebuild video (This applies to 13BT's also): Aaron Cake's 13B rebuild video
400RWHP?
I might be missing a few things... But I suppose this would be a basic outline:
- Street port
- 800cc+ primary fuel injectors / 1,600cc secondary fuel injectors
- Aftermarket FPR
- Custom fuel rails and lines
- Bosch .044 fuel pump
- High flow exhaust system
- Standalone ECU
- Wideband AFR gauge
- Garrett GT35R turbo
- 45mm external wastegate
- Custom turbo manifold
- Boost gauge
- V-mount intercooler set-up
- Custom air box with ducting
- Complete TII drivetrain
- Wider wheels and tires
- Great suspension set-up
- All new bushings
- A GOOD TUNE
And get your engine dowel pinned!
400RWHP?
I might be missing a few things... But I suppose this would be a basic outline:
- Street port
- 800cc+ primary fuel injectors / 1,600cc secondary fuel injectors
- Aftermarket FPR
- Custom fuel rails and lines
- Bosch .044 fuel pump
- High flow exhaust system
- Standalone ECU
- Wideband AFR gauge
- Garrett GT35R turbo
- 45mm external wastegate
- Custom turbo manifold
- Boost gauge
- V-mount intercooler set-up
- Custom air box with ducting
- Complete TII drivetrain
- Wider wheels and tires
- Great suspension set-up
- All new bushings
- A GOOD TUNE
And get your engine dowel pinned!
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Three hours later...
I realize you mentioned that it is a 91 TII. The 1991 TII's are rare... Not that many left. You should return it back to stock form and keep it. Or sell those aftermarket parts, return the car to stock form, sell it, and use the money for a cheaper FC to modify. <- Just a few suggestions.
FC3S Pro: Turbo Registry
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/1991-rx-7-turbo-registry-956441/
If you don't mind me asking... How much did you purchase this car for? Running??
I realize you mentioned that it is a 91 TII. The 1991 TII's are rare... Not that many left. You should return it back to stock form and keep it. Or sell those aftermarket parts, return the car to stock form, sell it, and use the money for a cheaper FC to modify. <- Just a few suggestions.
FC3S Pro: Turbo Registry
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/1991-rx-7-turbo-registry-956441/
If you don't mind me asking... How much did you purchase this car for? Running??
#6
country w@nk
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Three hours later...
I realize you mentioned that it is a 91 TII. The 1991 TII's are rare... Not that many left. You should return it back to stock form and keep it. Or sell those aftermarket parts, return the car to stock form, sell it, and use the money for a cheaper FC to modify. <- Just a few suggestions.
FC3S Pro: Turbo Registry
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=956441
If you don't mind me asking... How much did you purchase this car for? Running??
I realize you mentioned that it is a 91 TII. The 1991 TII's are rare... Not that many left. You should return it back to stock form and keep it. Or sell those aftermarket parts, return the car to stock form, sell it, and use the money for a cheaper FC to modify. <- Just a few suggestions.
FC3S Pro: Turbo Registry
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=956441
If you don't mind me asking... How much did you purchase this car for? Running??
#7
country w@nk
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: arkansas
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Here is a great FREE 13B rebuild video (This applies to 13BT's also): Aaron Cake's 13B rebuild video
400RWHP?
I might be missing a few things... But I suppose this would be a basic outline:
- Street port
- 800cc+ primary fuel injectors / 1,600cc secondary fuel injectors
- Aftermarket FPR
- Custom fuel rails and lines
- Bosch .044 fuel pump
- High flow exhaust system
- Standalone ECU
- Wideband AFR gauge
- Garrett GT35R turbo
- 45mm external wastegate
- Custom turbo manifold
- Boost gauge
- V-mount intercooler set-up
- Custom air box with ducting
- Complete TII drivetrain
- Wider wheels and tires
- Great suspension set-up
- All new bushings
- A GOOD TUNE
And get your engine dowel pinned!
400RWHP?
I might be missing a few things... But I suppose this would be a basic outline:
- Street port
- 800cc+ primary fuel injectors / 1,600cc secondary fuel injectors
- Aftermarket FPR
- Custom fuel rails and lines
- Bosch .044 fuel pump
- High flow exhaust system
- Standalone ECU
- Wideband AFR gauge
- Garrett GT35R turbo
- 45mm external wastegate
- Custom turbo manifold
- Boost gauge
- V-mount intercooler set-up
- Custom air box with ducting
- Complete TII drivetrain
- Wider wheels and tires
- Great suspension set-up
- All new bushings
- A GOOD TUNE
And get your engine dowel pinned!
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#8
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
The Apexi power FC is probably the most user friendly.
800x1600 injectors make for an easy to tune idle while providing enough fuel for the top end. honestly, you could probably get away with 4x1000 ID but most would advise running a conservative duty cycle (<85%) which is easier w/ 1600's ....of course you could raise static pressure w/ the 1000's to achieve the same flow w/ better atomization, but that's a whole different can of worms.
400 whp isn't that extreme that cryo treatment is necessary. save your money for some good tuning. Honestly, a stock s5 block (assuming thicker rear iron) will handle 400 fine WITH PROPER TUNING.
Last I checked Atkins rebuild kits were mostly mazda rebuild kits, with the exception being the apex seals and perhaps coolant o-rings, but its been a while since I really looked.
800x1600 injectors make for an easy to tune idle while providing enough fuel for the top end. honestly, you could probably get away with 4x1000 ID but most would advise running a conservative duty cycle (<85%) which is easier w/ 1600's ....of course you could raise static pressure w/ the 1000's to achieve the same flow w/ better atomization, but that's a whole different can of worms.
400 whp isn't that extreme that cryo treatment is necessary. save your money for some good tuning. Honestly, a stock s5 block (assuming thicker rear iron) will handle 400 fine WITH PROPER TUNING.
Last I checked Atkins rebuild kits were mostly mazda rebuild kits, with the exception being the apex seals and perhaps coolant o-rings, but its been a while since I really looked.
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The Apexi power FC is probably the most user friendly.
800x1600 injectors make for an easy to tune idle while providing enough fuel for the top end. honestly, you could probably get away with 4x1000 ID but most would advise running a conservative duty cycle (<85%) which is easier w/ 1600's ....of course you could raise static pressure w/ the 1000's to achieve the same flow w/ better atomization, but that's a whole different can of worms.
400 whp isn't that extreme that cryo treatment is necessary. save your money for some good tuning. Honestly, a stock s5 block (assuming thicker rear iron) will handle 400 fine WITH PROPER TUNING.
Last I checked Atkins rebuild kits were mostly mazda rebuild kits, with the exception being the apex seals and perhaps coolant o-rings, but its been a while since I really looked.
800x1600 injectors make for an easy to tune idle while providing enough fuel for the top end. honestly, you could probably get away with 4x1000 ID but most would advise running a conservative duty cycle (<85%) which is easier w/ 1600's ....of course you could raise static pressure w/ the 1000's to achieve the same flow w/ better atomization, but that's a whole different can of worms.
400 whp isn't that extreme that cryo treatment is necessary. save your money for some good tuning. Honestly, a stock s5 block (assuming thicker rear iron) will handle 400 fine WITH PROPER TUNING.
Last I checked Atkins rebuild kits were mostly mazda rebuild kits, with the exception being the apex seals and perhaps coolant o-rings, but its been a while since I really looked.
I have an A'PEXi Power FC. I kind of wish I would have bought the Haltech Sprint RE or REALLY wish I would have saved up for the PS1000.
I suppose it's all about money and personal preference... I think there are FAR more advantages to the Haltech PS1000, though.
#11
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
I don't have any experience with the new Haltechs; the older models w/ their vauge ignition accuracy, poor customer service and so so software didn't particularly impress me. I could have had one for a little more than the cost of the Rtek and supporting peripherals, but I decided to wait and get a PFC, motec, or PS .
#16
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
change the oil line. Dont wait till the bust.... I got home one day and saw a pool of oil. Luckily my drive was short and i still had enough oil in the engine. If it had been a longer ride... i wouldnt of been able to brag about my engine lasting 5 years. =)
#17
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All good information and its much appreciated. The cars getting moved this weekend into the shop to begin engine removal and tear down. Any other info or precautions are welcomed on this thread.
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