Seeking as much good advice here on my current build journey I'm fixing to embark on. Its a 91 t2 that I purchased last summer that came with a few bolt-ons like greddy FM, hks silent back exhaust, Turbo timer,apexi boost controller (wired wrong),hks wg, walboro fuel pump,spec lightweight flywheel, koyo radiator, and a hks bov. I have rebuilt the 12a a few times successful but never messed with the 13b(assuming the difference is minimum ). Anyways I'm just wanting advice on things I should replace that could prevent harm from a fresh rebuild and things needed to obtain around 400 at the wheels. Also the car was poorly taken care of and the individual did not know what he was doing especially with the electronics.

 

Here is a great FREE 13B rebuild video (This applies to 13BT's also): Aaron Cake's 13B rebuild video

400RWHP?

I might be missing a few things... But I suppose this would be a basic outline:
- Street port
- 800cc+ primary fuel injectors / 1,600cc secondary fuel injectors
- Aftermarket FPR
- Custom fuel rails and lines
- Bosch .044 fuel pump
- High flow exhaust system
- Standalone ECU
- Wideband AFR gauge
- Garrett GT35R turbo
- 45mm external wastegate
- Custom turbo manifold
- Boost gauge
- V-mount intercooler set-up
- Custom air box with ducting
- Complete TII drivetrain
- Wider wheels and tires
- Great suspension set-up
- All new bushings
- A GOOD TUNE

And get your engine dowel pinned!

 

and a domokaun sticker... ^^ nice list btw

 

Three hours later...

I realize you mentioned that it is a 91 TII. The 1991 TII's are rare... Not that many left. You should return it back to stock form and keep it. Or sell those aftermarket parts, return the car to stock form, sell it, and use the money for a cheaper FC to modify. <- Just a few suggestions.

FC3S Pro: Turbo Registry
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/1991-rx-7-turbo-registry-956441/


If you don't mind me asking... How much did you purchase this car for? Running??

 

You should sell it to me
It will save you money!

 

It was running but low compression on rear,paid 2000 and the previous owner had intentions of being a drift king so the rear diff and clutch were gone....I would restore the car but being a speed junkie,my first car was a 85 and always wanted a Turbo rx7 to spruce up.

 

Thank you for the list but have a couple questions. The stand alone ecu, which is the most user friendly? Why 1600 cc secondaries? And am curious if the Atkins cryo treated seals are worth it? And which rebuild kits are better Atkins or mazdatrix?

 

The Apexi power FC is probably the most user friendly.

800x1600 injectors make for an easy to tune idle while providing enough fuel for the top end. honestly, you could probably get away with 4x1000 ID but most would advise running a conservative duty cycle (<85%) which is easier w/ 1600's ....of course you could raise static pressure w/ the 1000's to achieve the same flow w/ better atomization, but that's a whole different can of worms.

400 whp isn't that extreme that cryo treatment is necessary. save your money for some good tuning. Honestly, a stock s5 block (assuming thicker rear iron) will handle 400 fine WITH PROPER TUNING.

Last I checked Atkins rebuild kits were mostly mazda rebuild kits, with the exception being the apex seals and perhaps coolant o-rings, but its been a while since I really looked.

 

For turbo 13b's, OEM 2mm seals are suggested a lot. Either that or ALS seals. But I believe ALS seals haven't been tested in high mileage situations.(50,000+)

 

^

I have an A'PEXi Power FC. I kind of wish I would have bought the Haltech Sprint RE or REALLY wish I would have saved up for the PS1000.

I suppose it's all about money and personal preference... I think there are FAR more advantages to the Haltech PS1000, though.

 

Stock seals do just fine. Lots of people swear by RA seals as well. In the engine I'm putting together (very slowly) I'm going to try the Goopy seals, they seem to produce good results and those guys are certainly NOT easy on seals.

I don't have any experience with the new Haltechs; the older models w/ their vauge ignition accuracy, poor customer service and so so software didn't particularly impress me. I could have had one for a little more than the cost of the Rtek and supporting peripherals, but I decided to wait and get a PFC, motec, or PS .

 

This all is great advice and thank you. Also was curious if I should replace the oil cooler and lines? The car has 179k so?

 

If they still work... Keep 'em. Replace them when they bust. I really do like my stainless steel braided oil cooler lines, though.

 

I know this may be a noob question but,can the cluster of vaccume hoses on top of the motor be minimized or done away with?

 

Yep, search "emissions removal"

Also, don't wait for almost 200k old oil cooler lines to bust, it could cost you your engine. If you know have to use the bathroom do you soil your pants before you do something about it?

 

change the oil line. Dont wait till the bust.... I got home one day and saw a pool of oil. Luckily my drive was short and i still had enough oil in the engine. If it had been a longer ride... i wouldnt of been able to brag about my engine lasting 5 years. =)

 

All good information and its much appreciated. The cars getting moved this weekend into the shop to begin engine removal and tear down. Any other info or precautions are welcomed on this thread.

 

Subscribed