Hey man,

Finally made it over to your thread since you prompted me to, and it looks awesome! I'm prepping for a fuel system overhaul as well and was wondering what hose that is you are running and what hose ends? I saw the flex fuel sensor so you are obviously going to be hitting the E85 fuel too.

-Skeese

 

I'm most likely picking up the T1RaceDevelopment -8AN (IN/OUT) and -6AN (RETURN) Premium Hose (Black Nylon/PTFE lined) once Paul sends me their fuel pump and injectors. Because BLAAAACK.

The rest of my system is Earl's Ano Tuff fittings or Fragola. You really can't go wrong with AN stuff.

 

There's a lot of good news...and some bad.





My e85 Safe Internal Surge Tank with Walbro 416 is complete and will be shipping to me tomorrow.<br/><br/>Swirl Pot/Surge Tank with ~0.7L capacity means I can sustain my 1.3g cornering in boost without ANY starvation.





Took a road trip with a buddy to Mosquito Ridge Road.





Amazing Views.





Frame rails almost complete.








Transmission Mount and Crossbrace







Then I went on to kidnap a girl on the other side of the state, drive her around, go camping, get a cabin on the beach, continue hunting down the best driving roads in the world with a ride or die bi**h, and finally return home to a clear head.

Life is grand. Don't hold back.


/Ohhh Yea. The bad news. Parts of the dash and carpet are damaged on an otherwise pristine interior. #ChetHappenz

 

Great job on the frame rails,looks awesome

 

Thank you Sir. Did you still want that turnover valve or whatever? PM me an offer, shipped price, and I'll send it out this week.

 

Hopefully by the end of today I can write up a tuning logic and list out my inputs/outputs for the M6000 ECU on here...

It's a big task.

 

Wastegate DC vs. Ethanol Content Basemap.

 

I never want to hear from someone how they thought I was lazy and whimsical. Nope. Here's some hard work that I've put together for MY engine.

ID1300s Primaries, ID1700s Secondaries, Walbro 416 Lift Pump, ID Fuel Pump, Water Separation/Fuel Filter down to 3 Micron that flows 300GPH, Dual Pressure Dampers on Fuel Rails, All e85 Compatible Fuel Components.

Series 5 13bt with T04B Compressor Housing and P-Trim wheel Turbo. Estimated 260whp @ wastegate pressure (10psi) for pump gas and 320-350whp @ ~18psi on e85.

Highway Fuel Economy Target: 25mpg (91 Octane), 15mpg (e85)
City/Mountain Fuel Economy Target: 14mpg (91 Octane), 10mpg (e85)






My Direct Fire Dwell Map





My 2-Stroke OMP Position Map





My Spark Timing Split Map

 

I found that I get alot smoother idle if I run a 20 split in the 1000 RPM 0 and 25% cells. It helps to stabilize my idle and allowed me to bring it down lower without it hunting.

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...t-idle-770922/

-Skeese

 

cool progress, I'm digging the frame rails and am anxious to see how the toyata rear end works out

 

It may be beneficial, so I'll experiment for sure. This is a S5 13BT block though, so different geometry and "base timing" than your motor. Should be similar results regardless.

I am using an IAC for this motor, because it's California and I plan to travel everywhere...

Skeese, we're going to have some insane basemap setup for these cars once all is said and done with our builds.

 

Seth, I'll try a -10 @ 0% and -5 @ 25% for the 1000 RPM column, and a -8 @ 0% and -3 @ 25% for the 3000 RPM column, and go from there.

You should DEFINITELY be dipping into your 3k column for cruising (even though my build will land me at 4k RPM @ 80mph... Negative split will reduce AFR due to how the combustion is occurring, so experiment with fueling right after to stay on a safe target. I'm sure we could go a LOT more aggressive with negative split at light loads.

If you're at +20, I bet your idle has to be VERY rich to be smooth.

I'll call Abel (Ibarra) about it tomorrow and see what kind of experimenting he's done. There are VERY FEW tuners that I trust, and out of those, maybe 2 or 3 are capable of achieving reliable efficiency, not just reliability. That's why we do this though, right? Experiment, learn, and throw money away...


https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...-443709/page4/

Lean burn with negative split timing - RX8Club.com

#1: https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-f...r-tune-892195/

 

What did you do for replacing the underbody frame rails? Did you just box the exiting ones with stronger metal?

I am planning something very similar with my S5 Restomod.

I was thinking of having some 3/16" steel bent to cap and flange over the existing ones.

 

Please tell me the connector shown at the top of the pump assembly isn't for the pumps. Those terminals are only rated for 7.5 amps.

 

There is only a single Walbro 416 e85 Lift Pump (0 psi) in that internal surge/swirl tank, drawing a maximum of 14.45A @ 13.5v and running 14awg wiring (rated for 18A).

An identical setup with a Bosch 044 has been fine for YEARS. I have 100% faith in Winfield's design here.

DTM = 7.5A Continuous (Doesn't fit 14awg)
DT = 13A Continuous
DTP = 25A Continuous

I'm pretty sure he used either a DT or DTP, but even if it's a DTM, I'm not too worried.

Thank you for the observation though, I'll check it out.

 

My custom e85 Internal Surge Tank/Swirl Pot/Lift Pump setup, courtesy of Coachman Performance. (Elwood on this forum)

Order yours today @ Home Page and be sure to say I sent you (Ryan Heinrich).

 

Any info?

 

Yea, we took 0.083" wall 2.5" square tube and cut it down to match the contours of the factory frame rails. Boxed, Drilled, Holes Welded, and Stitched. Should add a bit of torsional rigidity.

Not planning on running swaybars on this car at all, so I chose slightly higher spring rates, a stiffer chassis, and two-way rear coilovers. Fronts are Ksports with 400lb springs.

 

Did you remove the factory ones? Or did you just slip this over them?

Looks to me like you removed the factory ones. Am I right?

 

Definitely just boxed over the factory rails. The point was economical torsional rigidity with only minor weight added, and we accomplished that goal.

This car when new vs. an Rx8 is about 1/3rd the torsional rigidity. I'm trying to close that gap. Triangulation, better front and rear end setups, and this together should help a lot.

 

Are you not concerned that it builds a moisture gap between the old and new pieces of metal?
That is why I was asking, that was my concern. I plan to keep this car as long as there is fuel available for her, and I am alive...

I am considering removing the old ones, templating them and then cutting them out, having them bent, and welding the new ones back up, I plan to integrate x-box jacking points on them as well.

 

Nope, not at all.

 

Great work going on with your car! I like it all! 👍I really like what you did with the framerails. Mine are all bashed up and I want to do something to strengthen and cover them. Yours look great!

 

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

Originally, because of the condition, I was going to use the car for gran touring and show, but now with all of the extra projects and such that I've added, it's converting more to a weekend warrior in the canyons and LONG distance cruising with flex fuel.

The more I look at this T04B Compressor/P-Trim Turbine S5 hybrid setup, the more excited I get. 300whp @ 15psi on pump gas seems to be the norm, without any of the extra effort that I've put into my setup (amazing intercooler, port matching, streetported motor, etc). I think it's a 54 Trim, which falls between an H-Trim and V-Trim on FC3s's site. Streetport on the motor could be anywhere from 35-45lbs/min of air, and maximum boost on e85 for this turbo setup should be in the 25psi range where either map is still VERY efficient (70%!!!). This could still land me my 400whp goal on e85...and I didn't think that would be the case any longer.

This week, I dropped off the IST to my buddy's fab shop to have him weld the 304ss 1/2" plate to my very very thin OEM steel gas tank. It should be complete by the weekend and dropped off to the radiator shop for final prep, paint, and sealing (Red Kote).

The Toyota 8" axle is being assembled right now with the Weir Performance Clutch Pack adjustments added and 4.56 Rear end ratio. Turbo II brakes in the rear and 300M (4340) axles turned down and restudded to 5x114.3 (from 6 lug Yota) to make everything work. Yea Yea...my gearing is pretty odd (I should have gone LONGER since it's boosted), but it's easy to change if I decide traction in 4th gear is an issue.

Coilover Spacers are a WIP, but the idea is solid. Love the Varishock Ball Joint Uppers in the OEM shock location.

I'm having a meeting for the 4-Link geometry later this week so we can dial everything in and turn measurements from ride height into angles and locations. Slowly but surely, we'll get this Lotus Link together....

 

"It's major virtues are extreme comfort and an engine that is very smooth and strong." Yup, it's a Gran Tourer after all!