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Magic. The Turbo II Transmission doesn't need to be modified to fit my FB at all... Y'all are crazy or something. Maybe with a FB front end it does, but with a FC subframe this is a DIRECT, PERFECT FIT! Suck it nerds.
Perfect Condition OEM Fuel and Evaporation Systems FOR SALE! First one with money in hand takes it! <br/><br/>**Fuel tank is NOT for sale.**
Close Up
Lower Triangulated Links Mocked up. Not much needs to be done here. Just drop brackets and obviously the Toyota 8" axle.
Upper Links. The cabin area here needs to be notched into to allow for proper length and geometry of these ones. Parallel and Level at ride height is the goal here.
Money Shot! Expect to see some huge progress here over the factory "frame rails" as I tie them into the new 4-link and transmission crossbrace as a unified setup.
Nickname"Mazdarati"
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 03-01-16 at 02:04 AM.
Front Door Woofer 6.7" ES-06 on the LEFT vs. Rear Panel Subwoofer 6.7" ES-06+ on the RIGHT. Both are amazing, but GODDAMN that throw (xmax) on the subwoofer is incredible!
The last of the truly great Alpines with Black and White, Audessey Time Alignment, Imprint/Bass Pro EQ, and one of the first units with iPod Control. It's a beast...
Bye Bye Buzzer!
How did you go getting the bass drivers in the rear std location? I tried that once but it required too much spacing to keep the magnets off the outside skin and still get the plastics back on.
How did you go getting the bass drivers in the rear std location? I tried that once but it required too much spacing to keep the magnets off the outside skin and still get the plastics back on.
I'm going to attempt taking Frox's external measurements and designing mirrored, bass reflex or slot ported enclosures. I can't find a spare tire setup that's 5x114.3 and fits in that location, so I'll most likely extend the enclosure base outwards so the subwoofers are top-firing and ports are facing the driver/passenger. A fix-a-flat and handcrafted small tool chest can fit that spare tire spot instead.
Took the rest of the interior out today for fabrication after dropping the fuel tank off for cleaning. It's going to receive a custom version of Winfield Coachman's IST with a Holley Hydramat pickup sock. VERY excited, but I need to clean it out before we can do any welding. ALSO, here's my buddy's drift/canyon spec 240sx (s13) that I've helped him tune over the years. #1Quik2Fody #SouthBayTouge
Alpine head unit, nice
PG amp, excellent
CDT drivers though?
I never understood the fascination with CDT. Their top of the line stuff is priced in line with middle tier equipment from brands like JL and Alpine but all they really offer is more wizardry with their crossovers and not a better value. If you toss the crossovers and run active (which I usually do to add time alignment) the drivers are rather harsh to the ears. I drank the Internet cool aid a number of years ago and tried their 3 way set but gave up on them after a year. Luckily I was able to sell them without losing too much coin to another cool aid drinker and never looked back.
Alpine head unit, nice
PG amp, excellent
CDT drivers though?
I never understood the fascination with CDT. Their top of the line stuff is priced in line with middle tier equipment from brands like JL and Alpine but all they really offer is more wizardry with their crossovers and not a better value. If you toss the crossovers and run active (which I usually do to add time alignment) the drivers are rather harsh to the ears. I drank the Internet cool aid a number of years ago and tried their 3 way set but gave up on them after a year. Luckily I was able to sell them without losing too much coin to another cool aid drinker and never looked back.
Normally, I'm a Hertz/Audison kind of guy and I've worked in the car audio industry for years, so everything is at cost anyways. The CDT ES-Gold stuff matched the vision I had for the car with their beefy 6.5" subwoofers and 4-way front setup (6.5" in doors, 4" and 1.2" in kicks, and imaging tweeters up at the top of the A-Pillars.) So it's semi-active and without DSP designed for SQ.
Subwoofers are going to be run at 8 ohm off of my 5th channel (2x 4 ohm SVC Subwoofers in Series to create 8 ohm load). They'll be crossed at 70-80hz on that channel.
6.5" door woofers (ES-06) will be run off of the 2 REAR Channels so that I can bandpass them accordingly. 60-300hz or somewhere around there.
The last two channels (FRONT) go to the EX-550 crossover which has a natural 2.5k crossover from mids to tweets. These channels will be low passed on the amplifier at 250-300hz.
I'm happy with experimenting with audio stuff. My daily driver has had it's set of Image Dynamics CXS62s for at least 5yrs now and I loved their sound signature once I properly time aligned and tuned the system (for my preferences). It's SQL, full 2 ohm system...loud. 13.5" JL Audio w3 in a ~4sq.ft. bass reflex enclosure designed by PWK Designs out of Tombstone, AZ. Audison Primas will replace the CXS62 sometime later this year. Their coloring is really to my liking.
Alpine and JL Audio aren't even in the same league as these guys... Alpine makes amazing electronics, and JL's amps are pretty damn good too, but their speakers don't match the rest of their lineup at all. I love the Alpine Type R subwoofer for its versatility, but a Hertz/Audison subwoofer absolutely walks all over it for both SQ and SPL.
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 03-07-16 at 11:06 PM.
Maybe I've been out of the game too long. When I was comparing JL to CDT, DLS, Focal, Hertz, Morel, and a few others the CDT just weren't cutting it. This is going back about 7-8 years though. I can't remember if it was ES or HD series though. I've heard some great sounding systems with Alpine but never installed them for myself. I think you may be right though, as I look back all the alpine systems were heavily processed with more alpine equipment so I never got an honest read on the speakers alone.
I'm still trying to decide what to do with my REPU. Maybe I'll start considering CDT again. I'm planning to put in a MiniDSP C-DSP and some micro class-D amps. I've got miata seats going in with head rest speakers and thumpers, and I'll probably add 4" or 5.25"s to the kick panels. Whatever I can find that has a shallow mounting depth because leg room is at a premium.
Anyway, looking forward to watching your build! If I ever make it out to an event in CA I'd love to hear it!
Maybe I've been out of the game too long. When I was comparing JL to CDT, DLS, Focal, Hertz, Morel, and a few others the CDT just weren't cutting it. This is going back about 7-8 years though. I can't remember if it was ES or HD series though. I've heard some great sounding systems with Alpine but never installed them for myself. I think you may be right though, as I look back all the alpine systems were heavily processed with more alpine equipment so I never got an honest read on the speakers alone.
I'm still trying to decide what to do with my REPU. Maybe I'll start considering CDT again. I'm planning to put in a MiniDSP C-DSP and some micro class-D amps. I've got miata seats going in with head rest speakers and thumpers, and I'll probably add 4" or 5.25"s to the kick panels. Whatever I can find that has a shallow mounting depth because leg room is at a premium.
Anyway, looking forward to watching your build! If I ever make it out to an event in CA I'd love to hear it!
The PG Ti2 Series, 5ch Amp is incredible for its size. My shop that I used to work for carries it and if it wasn't for the over the top audiophile aspect of this build, I would have been VERY happy with that amp with 1/4 the footprint. Phoenix Gold - Ti2 Series 5ch Amp
My buddy has OLD connections with CDT and I asked him about what he thought of it (since I demoed his 3 way before deciding to go this route). He said CDT of new is completely different than what they had 5+ yrs ago and you're essentially getting Audison quality for a fraction of the cost. A 10yr warranty on the ES Gold series is pretty cool... The product construction is outstanding. I'll make it work.
For DSP, it's pretty hard not to say the Bit One/Bit Ten D. Honestly, a DSP isn't for me...I can do most of my tuning with hardware anyways.
One of my favorite installs ever was YawPower's (Yes, the guy who did these carbs and the FC racing parts way back in the day) Mustang GT500 with a fully optical system running an Audison AP8.9 fully active. Prima 8", Voce 4", Voce Tweeters + Alpine M12 Amp for da bassssssss. It's a stealth install and might also be another great choice for your amp.
Another audio question for you. Will those CDT subwoofers fit behind the factory trim panel?
No, they won't. The REAR section where I test fitted my amplifier can house two individual subwoofer enclosures (sealed) with the correct air space for these woofers. Being that my amplifier can EASILY overpower their rated maximum, and I'll be sure to run them hard, I feel as if that location will suit me well.
I think I might even run a set of rear fill speakers now off of headunit power, now that I know that's available space.
As for how the sound will travel, the panels will be cut open for the speaker to flex, and a fine cloth will go in front to protect the woofers. Should work nicely. We'll see when I get to it.
People ask me all the time, "Ryan, why do you like cars so much?" Well, it's all about the dopamine rush from hitting those canyon roads HARD and besting yourself. I always run as if I'm chasing me... It puts all aspects of life in line and centers me.
Here's a few shots from today's drive.
The Porsche isn't mine, just a random car at one of the wineries I made it to. In four hours however, I'll be shooting with Sharkwerks Porsche Specialists up in the mountains. Hope to make an epic video out of it for you guys.
For now, here's my YouTube channel and another run I did not too long ago.
Sweet Integra, and super sweet FB build! I'm really enjoying it and it's great to see people making cool stuff.
I apologize if you've answered this before elsewhere, but did you use the front studs for mounting the FC subframe or just located it and welded it in where you wanted? And did you splice the FB/FC steering shafts together?
I'm looking forward to seeing how you do the toyota rear end in there too. Keep up the good work!
Sweet Integra, and super sweet FB build! I'm really enjoying it and it's great to see people making cool stuff.
I apologize if you've answered this before elsewhere, but did you use the front studs for mounting the FC subframe or just located it and welded it in where you wanted? And did you splice the FB/FC steering shafts together?
I'm looking forward to seeing how you do the toyota rear end in there too. Keep up the good work!
Thank you, Thank you!
For the FC Subframe, I maintained the OEM front studs and dropped in a 5/8" bolt for the rear unit. I had to fabricate a sleeve for the frame rail housing to stay true (so I could clamp down hard pulling the subframe up), and in the process was able to space the subframe from that same sleeve. I chose this spacing to gain me more caster and it's not ideal for a few other reasons, but it works for MY particular setup. Spacing is required as Alex (Whizbang) has shown previously.
For the steering rack, it was pretty simple. Yes, combined the FB and FC units so I could retain the FB interior bits (cancellation of the turn signal and ignition unit) and the base of the FC stuff to line up with the 3-port rack. My buddy and I were able to line it up BETTER than the factory unit and it's butter smooth to turn my drift knuckles unassisted (imagine instant off center response + stupid quick steering).
Yes...I said drift knuckles. It's a grand touring car, so comfort and cruising is it's main goal, and steering will be dicey for an untrained driver. But with the electronically controlled hydraulic steering, I'll be able to dial in (via M6000 Adaptronic ECU) exactly how much assistance I want at whatever speed. Supercomputer ECU status...lol.
The Toyota rear end is pretty dope, I could manufacture another setup for someone relatively cheap, it's just about locating the right parts at the right time. The MKIII Supra LSD is not easily sourced, especially in the condition I found mine in (80mi from Toyota direct). My axles are 6 lugs, converted 5x114.3 and turned down to fit FC Turbo II rear calipers/rotors, so brakes are ALL TII throughout. Easy peasy maintenance.
Eventually, when I start turning up boost and likely on another motor, I'll be using a transmission/rear differential cooler setup which will constantly pump 75w-140 throughout both, loop through a cooler, and recirculate.
02-29-16, 11:34 PM
You can part it out and make $$$.
