I read all the way through, great story. Are you going to up the boost at some point. 283 sounds like plenty of fun for me. I'm collecting parts and reading every thing I can. your project is tha plan my for me. However, I missed are you using premix or OMP? if OMP witch one?

 

forget if I have posted current pics of my build.

today, I'm going to get a few misc gaskets from the dealer. I'll snap some of the engine installed but here is a teaser pic of what I've been up to

 

That engine looks great notveryhappyjack!^^ Same one you have in the engine bay now right? Or different one?

Thank you HRnico! Car is plenty of fun with this power.

My plan is to plumb the wastegate screamer pipe back into the downpipe to quiet it down under full boost. The same time I get that done i'll get a boost controller and put it on the dyno again and probably just run it to 10-11 psi just to be in the 300rwhp club lol. I run premix on the car. OMP is blocked off. 1oz premix per gallon.

That will be after a few weeks though. Car goes to paint shop monday.

 

oops lol, I mis read the title, I thought this was the "post pics of your turbo FB thread" sry to hi jack.

on topic, I really like the color scheme you went with on this motor. Last time I was on here you had just had a big moment with you last engine, glad to see you stuck with it!

 

Haha no worries! Thanks man! Yeah me too. It's running great.

I dropped the car off at the paint shop today... Car is getting a full exterior respray of the same color(formula white). All jambs are getting painted. Fenders rolled. Only thing not being painted is the engine bay. Next time engine is out..

After the car gets 3 base coats and 6-7 coats clear it will get color sanded and buffed to make it smooth as glass. I'm really looking forward to 3 weeks now lol.

All mouldings will be gone. They will be saved if I don't like it and reinstall them.

 

Dude. I got rid of my moldings and have never been happier. These cars look so much sleeker without them. I understand why Mazda put them on, but I dare someone to door ding my car

 

Haha right! I like the no molding look on darker colored 1st gens. Not sure on the lighter colors though..

I told my painter to leave the black molding on the front and rear bumper unpainted. Don't know though now if I should have the molding on those bumpers painted to match rest of car or left alone like stock.. lol

Now i'm going to find pics of both with and without lol

 

Here are the dyno numbers. We didn't have a tach connection. Torque is very low according to this, but were thinking it has to be more. Normally on the dyno they get the torque reading from the tach signal I hear.. My tach still isn't hooked up. I don't know what to hook up the tach signal wire to?



Stopped by paint shop. They just started tearing it down.



And one of the new oem fenders.



More pics soon. I decided the front and rear bumpers will be repainted with the molding still black. All trim will be painted gloss black(mirrors, door handles, windshield trim). Side molding will be reinstalled. Going for that very clean stock look just how it came out of the factory.

 

It looks like you are using 2nd gen coils, so tach signal wire should be Yel/blu IIRC off the trailing coil.

Isaac

 

normally the leading coil has a lead for the tach signal and i couldn't remember which wire it was off the trailings from the coil wiring as it changes from the chassis to coil plug connectors. the haltech should also have a tach signal out wire on its harness.

i don't know why they even put the torque reading on the chart without the tach input since the reading is useless without it, nor do i know why their machine will not pick up a tach signal off the coil wires at all on any rotary i bring in there.

hopefully it gets cranked out, body guys in this town are hit and miss, we're having issues getting the RX4 done for the show because our body guy flaked out.

 

First, I'm no dyno expert, but I suspect you can get a good torque curve from this chart with a little math. I assume you made this pull in a single gear, so you can use the overall gear ratio to calculate engine speed (RPM), then you can use that number to calculate torque at key points, using the equation:

Torque = (HP)(5252)/RPM

It would probably take you less work than it seems at first. I know there are some correction factors applied to compensate for internal losses in the dyno, but this should be in the right ballpark.

Torque curves always resonate more with me than HP curves, since they correlate better to the "butt dyno".

 

was in 4th gear, the gear ratio is obviously a little steep considering the speed and was taken to 8k RPMs, power hadn't peaked yet either so it likely could have squeaked out close to 300whp by 9k RPMs if it maintained a little longer(was a little rich past 7800 which caused the slight hiccup in the reading). a little surprising since this was a stock port 4 port.

most of the FC/FDs i tune hit about 130+MPH in the same gear.


it was a little funny since there was a guy with a new mustang, converted to E85 with a motor swap and upgraded cams who pushed 357WHP and was very happy, too bad he left before we got started. his car would ultimately be slower than the little FB, nice thing about the high compression rotors is the responsiveness and spool.

 

I did a quick check on the trailing coil and it does have a yellow/blue or yellow/green wire coming off the trailing coil into the connectors. I'll check tomorrow when I go to the paint shop again to make sure on color wire. So my yellow/green tach signal wire just needs to be wired into the yellow/blue or yellow/green and it'll work fine? That's what i'm understanding.

I'm not sure on the haltech, but i'll look into it also. I'll check leading coil too. Painter says by next week this time I should have it back. Hope so! Looks like the moldings might not go back on. The backsides look horrible. Might need "new" used ones in some places.

I'm still confused. Lol. Math wasn't my best subject. I'll fix the tach and go back on the dyno lol. Thanks though. I'll read later and see if I understand lol.

Stockport 6 port irons remember Ben? I forget the rear end gearing. 83 GSL lsd rear end though. I don't know if I would want to hit 130mph in 4th gear in this little car hahah.

That stang was nice, but would've been fun to see their faces when they couldn't keep pace with the little FB lol.

I'll contact you soon Ben about another tune hopefully soon. Just after I reroute wastegate and probably add a little bit more boost..

 

Stock rear gear on an 83 GSL is 3.91 . Fourth gear in the trans is 1 to 1. You will always get a true torque reading on the dyno in 4th gear.

 

Yes.


Isaac

 

very nice. love the rims and love the over all look. congrats!!! and i hope to join the 1gen trubo club this summer to. two thumbs way up. nice dyno run too

 

That's the rear gear. Thanks. So my car only has 118 torque... Can't be. Hauls *** lol.

Thanks Isaac! I'll get it wired up when I get it back from paint.

Thank you for all the kind words Mike! It's a very fun club to join

 

Got some more pics when I stopped by the paint shop. Most the bodywork was done when I took pics friday. Car will be painted tomorrow I believe. Then i'll be picking it up later this week.

More progress pics.








Car had a lot of dings/dents. Car looked good in pics, but the white hides it well. You can see everything that was wrong with the body in these pics lol.

 

ok i have a dumb nooby question for u. ive never ran a turbo on any of my cars but i would like to on this one. i actully found one today that i will be getting from my friend soon. im getting every thing for it (pipes intercooler wires ext ext..) my qustion is this can i hook it stight up to my stock 12a? carb n all. my friend will make me custoom headers for it as well and will help me run all the pipes. i want to get the peace that hooks stright up to the carb but am not sure what to do with the carb?????? ideas please? or do i have to buy a hole new setup? i will post the numbers for the carb when i get em. he told em to me but i cant remaber right of hands but it is a very small one. and what all will i need to get for it?

 

heres the turbo ill be getting

 

What was the total cost of the swap? I am trying to figure out which would be a better route between 12a custom turbo to make a 2nd gen turbo fit or just swap in a 13b turbo engine. Any info would be great. in your opinion which would be an easier and cost effective route?

 

Anything can work with hard work and money. There's a lot of things needed when going turbo from N/A. I've never turbo'd a car with a carb. So, I don't know what is exactly needed for your specific setup. I would take a look at bad 83s build thread "project updates" and see what info you can find in there. He use to have a blowthrough setup on 15psi of boost I believe. Rxking7 I think it is has also built a few turbo cars with carbs on them. He might have some threads floating around with good info on them. I know there is info in the forum though.

Do your research. Find out all the parts you'll need to finish the project. Make a list of the parts. Be ready to double or triple that list when done. Make a budget. Also, be ready to double or triple that budget. You will

To start: You'll need bigger fuel pump, fpr, fuel lines, carb hat, piping/intercooler, turbo oil feed/drain tapped front cover, dizzy locked, guages, etc..

What are the specs? I can see from the compressor housing this turbo is specifically designed for a certain vehicle.

Cost of build = more than I wanted . I'm not sure of total. With the options you posted I would do a turbo II 13b swap with stock coils, harness, engine management. Get a GSLSE oil pan, front cover, engine mount for front cover and you should be good. Ever want more power you can get a BNR turbo built(stage 1, 2, 3, 4).

 

New paint! Still need to have everything put back together and washed. Then I can have it back

 

Nice. Looking good. If it was mine, I would have welded shut all the factory holes for the emblems. But, I understand that this is your car and not mine

 

Thanks bud. I wanted to leave it as stock looking as possible. I did think about that though. Car got all brand new emblems. The only one I couldn't get was the "mazda" rear emblem. No longer available.

Car is ready to be picked up. That'll be tomorrow though cause of work.