Matt's T2 FB build (pic heavy)
#1
Matt's T2 FB build (pic heavy)
Well ive decided that its time to ditch the 12a and give the rx7 a little more ***** with a 13b turbo 2 engine. this will hopefully be a pretty quick build, because id like to daily drive my car the whole time.
The Car:
82 GSL
Re-speed coilovers (front 275, rears are racing beat springs)
Tokico Illumina adjustables
full energy suspension bushing kit
racing beat sway bar
Konig rewinds (205-55/15 front 225-50/15 rear)
aluminum rad with electric fans
racing beat oil cooler lines
The Plan:
s5 13B turbo engine
T2 trans
running megasquirt ecu
I purchased a pretty complete 13b turbo motor for $350, the harness was cut and it was missing a few small parts and bolts, but the majority of everything was there. it had low compression on the rear rotor. after getting the engine home i stripped it down to a shortblock.
made a big mess in the garage
had to make an engine stand adapter so that i could dissassemble the engine easier
got the engine all torn down, everything looks usable so far, hopefully everything measures out correctly later. this engine seems to have very few miles on it. i have zero water jacket corrosion and the wear on the plates seems to be minimal. the rotor housings have some slip steps on the edges but look to be within spec. now comes all the fun of cleaning parts. gave the rotor housings and the rotors and quick bath.
then i put a lot of effort into the rotors.
i still have alot more cleaning to do, but i figured i show some of you local guys what ive been up to. i should be posting updates on a regular basis. let me know what you guys think.
The Car:
82 GSL
Re-speed coilovers (front 275, rears are racing beat springs)
Tokico Illumina adjustables
full energy suspension bushing kit
racing beat sway bar
Konig rewinds (205-55/15 front 225-50/15 rear)
aluminum rad with electric fans
racing beat oil cooler lines
The Plan:
s5 13B turbo engine
T2 trans
running megasquirt ecu
I purchased a pretty complete 13b turbo motor for $350, the harness was cut and it was missing a few small parts and bolts, but the majority of everything was there. it had low compression on the rear rotor. after getting the engine home i stripped it down to a shortblock.
made a big mess in the garage
had to make an engine stand adapter so that i could dissassemble the engine easier
got the engine all torn down, everything looks usable so far, hopefully everything measures out correctly later. this engine seems to have very few miles on it. i have zero water jacket corrosion and the wear on the plates seems to be minimal. the rotor housings have some slip steps on the edges but look to be within spec. now comes all the fun of cleaning parts. gave the rotor housings and the rotors and quick bath.
then i put a lot of effort into the rotors.
i still have alot more cleaning to do, but i figured i show some of you local guys what ive been up to. i should be posting updates on a regular basis. let me know what you guys think.
#6
thanks for the encouragement everyone!
im trying to stay very motivated on this and get a little bit done everyday. for the next few days ill just be finishing up cleaning & measuring all my engine parts. Ive been heavily debating weather i should port this engine or not. if i do anything it would be a large streetport, but i wonder weather its worth it for me right now. my end hp goal is ~300rwp on pump gas, but i have a feeling ill always want more power. anyone got some advice?
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#8
The Outsider
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Actually your T2 FB made 303 whp on a dynopack dyno,, but you have a slightly larger BNR stage 1 compressor wheel.
300 whp will be hard on the stock snail, best of luck, dont forget to throw in a SE fuel tank and fuel lines.
#9
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For 300 WHP, I would not bother with porting. That amount of power is trivial for a turbo 13B. But it's probably impossible with the stock compressor wheel.
What are you planning for fuel management?
What are you planning for fuel management?
#10
im only using the stock turbo for now to get it running, i plan on building a custom t4 manifold after the swap and switching to a decent sized t4 turbo. fuel will be handled by a megasquirt and some larger injectors. as for the gas tank ill either get another fb tank and weld up a fuel pump hanger and such or ill sump the bottom and run an external fuel pump, havnt decided yet.
would 400hp be out of the question on stock ports? whats the stock port limit?
would 400hp be out of the question on stock ports? whats the stock port limit?
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There is no hard limit. It depends on how much boost you're pumping through them. There are plenty of people who have done 400 WHP on stock ports and pump gas, it just requires a bit more boost than it would with a streetport. For my 400 WHP build I'm using REW irons with a "medium" streetport (relatively mild intake port closing, relatively aggressive intake port opening, and stock exhaust ports).
#12
There is no hard limit. It depends on how much boost you're pumping through them. There are plenty of people who have done 400 WHP on stock ports and pump gas, it just requires a bit more boost than it would with a streetport. For my 400 WHP build I'm using REW irons with a "medium" streetport (relatively mild intake port closing, relatively aggressive intake port opening, and stock exhaust ports).
#15
well i just cleaned and inspected my stationary gears and found i have some copper showing through on the bearings.
front bearing
rear bearing
my perfectionist self says i should replace both of these, but from what i read you have better luck with worn bearings then new ones. would i be better off replacing them or reusing them?
im cleaning my irons now, should be done in a few.
front bearing
rear bearing
my perfectionist self says i should replace both of these, but from what i read you have better luck with worn bearings then new ones. would i be better off replacing them or reusing them?
im cleaning my irons now, should be done in a few.
#16
driver > rwhp
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those bearings are blingin with copper, replace them. I suggest fd 6 window bearings front and rear. massive heat and wear of these bearings should not be put through another build. do it right the first time sir
the fd bearings would lubricate more efficiently but if you dont want to spend the money just get 13bt replacements
As for the porting "army of one" gave my motor a small street port to stay scca legal. He also clean the runners a bit which helps with intake charge flow being pressurized from force induction.
the fd bearings would lubricate more efficiently but if you dont want to spend the money just get 13bt replacements
As for the porting "army of one" gave my motor a small street port to stay scca legal. He also clean the runners a bit which helps with intake charge flow being pressurized from force induction.
Last edited by NA-FC Abuser; 11-23-11 at 08:10 PM. Reason: added more info
#18
would i be better off just buying the new rx8 stat gears w/bearings and using them? whats all necessary to use them? i know you have to clearance the bearing and modify the oil passage but is that all? also with the multi window bearings do i have to increase the oil pressure to promote more flow at the bearing surfaces?
#19
driver > rwhp
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judging by your output you want from the engine I would think new bearings do just fine. Not sure about the rx8 stat gear, that could be something to look into. Dont think you have to modify the oil pressure for 6 window bearings but, an engine builder would know best.
#22
today is my last moving day, i rented a small section of shop in portland to work on my stuff in. ill be setting up shop for a couple days and this weekend im hoping to do lots of work on the 13b. ill post pics soon
btw, does anyone have any reason why i shouldn't get treated atkins apex seal?
btw, does anyone have any reason why i shouldn't get treated atkins apex seal?
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I've been quite impressed by the amount of abuse Atkins seals will put up with. There have been two separate occasions where my FB's motor probably should have blown, but it somehow survived and still has decent compression. It'll be very interesting to see the condition of the internals when I tear it down.