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Matt's T2 FB build (pic heavy)

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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 12:21 AM
  #26  
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thanks guys, i think im gunna get the atkins master rebuild kit with the cryo treated apex seals.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #27  
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i received my solution for my bad bearings today.

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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 11:16 AM
  #28  
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keep those pics coming... wanting another t2 fb on the road... it's WORTH every penny...
FBs with 300hp are amazing!!!
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bearzah
keep those pics coming... wanting another t2 fb on the road... it's WORTH every penny...
FBs with 300hp are amazing!!!
my grandmother lives in corvallis, if i come down you should give me a motivational ride i wanna feel this amazing for myself. ive never been in a turbo rotary car. plenty of 500+ whp supra's but thats a different ball game.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #30  
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SMALL world
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #31  
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so im going to do some out loud brainstorming here.

i had a thought today. since im trying to keep my fb as my dd as much as i can during this swap i was thinking i could rebuild the 13b turbo and put an early 13b 4 port nikki setup on it and mount it in the car. then i can break it in na while i setup the fuel system and such. i figure it will split my project into 2 or 3 parts. thus giving me a lil less to accomplish each step so i can continue to drive it as much as possible.

Basically.

Stage I
mount engine & t2 trans
custom driveshaft made and installed
dd 13b carb

stage II
build and install megasquirt
modify fuel tank for high pressure fuel system
swap the s5 tii intake and fuel setup
daily drive efi na 13b

stage III (after basetune)
install turbo
build exhaust/intercooler pipes
tune

anyone see any reason why i couldnt run the 13bt with an early carb setup? i guess if i cant id just combine stage one and two.
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #32  
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Me love you long time if you take more pictures of your wheels and how they fit.

Especially if you put rear wheels on front + go for drive report on scrubbing issues etc!
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #33  
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PS your 3 stages are good plan. I will list another option for your fuel system.

In AU efihardware make a surge tank that is so easy to install all you need to do is use 2 self tapping screws into the chassi rail.

That allows you to return the top of the surgetank 5/16" port to the factory 1/4" using a simple 5/16 to 1/4 adapter.

You can install a Carter Gold P4594 or larger lift pump either above the diff or above/beside the fuel tank, get some 5/16 fuel fittings that screw into that, you may then have that draw through a cheap $2 5/16 fuel filter, and have it pump through an efi spec metal 5/16 metal ryco or similar fuel filter. Connect that to the factory GSL fuel pickup have the carter pump into the 2nd highest port on the surge tank.

You can then use the factory 5/16 fuel feed line to return from the EFI rail to the surge tanks bottom 5/16 port.

It is easy enough to install a GENUINE (i must insist) Bosch 044 under the floor somewhere there, again you can get screw in fittings to 1/2" and again hose goes straight on.

I replaced the factory 1/4" fuel return with 3/8 metal line, however you could also use 5/16.

My home built and tuned 9.4:1 12A turbo s5turbo highflow runs 119mph down the 1/4 (with no traction and a 3.636 ratio in the diff) with those parts I specified.
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 04:12 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Jobro
Me love you long time if you take more pictures of your wheels and how they fit.

Especially if you put rear wheels on front + go for drive report on scrubbing issues etc!
rears wont fit on the front, i cant run a bigger tire up front without spacers or a wheels with a better offset. mine slightly rub on my respeed coilover nuts. ill find a couple more pics, i adjusted the front stance a bit the other day.






Originally Posted by Jobro
PS your 3 stages are good plan. I will list another option for your fuel system.

In AU efihardware make a surge tank that is so easy to install all you need to do is use 2 self tapping screws into the chassi rail.

That allows you to return the top of the surgetank 5/16" port to the factory 1/4" using a simple 5/16 to 1/4 adapter.

You can install a Carter Gold P4594 or larger lift pump either above the diff or above/beside the fuel tank, get some 5/16 fuel fittings that screw into that, you may then have that draw through a cheap $2 5/16 fuel filter, and have it pump through an efi spec metal 5/16 metal ryco or similar fuel filter. Connect that to the factory GSL fuel pickup have the carter pump into the 2nd highest port on the surge tank.

You can then use the factory 5/16 fuel feed line to return from the EFI rail to the surge tanks bottom 5/16 port.

It is easy enough to install a GENUINE (i must insist) Bosch 044 under the floor somewhere there, again you can get screw in fittings to 1/2" and again hose goes straight on.

I replaced the factory 1/4" fuel return with 3/8 metal line, however you could also use 5/16.

My home built and tuned 9.4:1 12A turbo s5turbo highflow runs 119mph down the 1/4 (with no traction and a 3.636 ratio in the diff) with those parts I specified.
I have considered going the surge tank method, but i think its a little tacky personally. id rather have one gas tank than two. if it comes down to it and i need a quick solution ill weld up a quick surge tank, but im going to try to do it right first. +1 on the bosch 044. i was into turbo supra's at one point and have had a few of these pumps. ive decided against the idea of ever being carb with it. i may just get it running na while i do the basetune. then throw the turbo on.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 06:10 AM
  #35  
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Hey,

#1 Are you using the factory mazda wheel bolts?
#2 Are you using a hub centric ring to centre the wheel on the mazda bore?

I believe the wheel has a 73mm hole, and the hub is only 59.6mm?
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jobro
Hey,

#1 Are you using the factory mazda wheel bolts?
#2 Are you using a hub centric ring to centre the wheel on the mazda bore?

I believe the wheel has a 73mm hole, and the hub is only 59.6mm?
#1 no im not using the factory mazda wheel bolts, they will work but only have about 3 threads going into the hubs. i use gorilla studs and nuts.

#2 i dont have a hub centric ring, all my lugnuts are tapered and seem to center the wheel pretty well, im going to be making wheel spacers at work that are hubcentric, ill post up pics when i get those done.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #37  
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not really a build update, but i finally got to play in the snow a little bit this year
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 10:11 PM
  #38  
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well finally an update......

i have received my master rebuild kit from atkins.
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now i have to decide if i want to port my motor or put it together now with stock ports. can you make 350-375whp on stock ports?
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 12:58 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by highnitro12187

now i have to decide if i want to port my motor or put it together now with stock ports. can you make 350-375whp on stock ports?
Those numbers might be kind of pushing it with a stock turbo and exhaust mani.
However if you were to use a BNR or say a external wastegate mani with around a .96 hotside you can get there easy on stock ports.
Something to consider while you have it apart is, Are you going to eventually upgrade the turbo? If so why not at least clean up the runners and factory cast on the intake. Alot can be done in those runners without changing the intake port timing. Also you might want to look into the exhaust port timing. Do you want to have your turbo spool faster? Then you might want to look into changing port timing somewhat.
All in all it can't hurt to get in there and smooth out some of the sharp angles and do some cleaning and polishing.
Good luck.

BTW nice rebuild kit
I have ALWAYS been happy with the Atkins family.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RW-7
Those numbers might be kind of pushing it with a stock turbo and exhaust mani.
However if you were to use a BNR or say a external wastegate mani with around a .96 hotside you can get there easy on stock ports.
Something to consider while you have it apart is, Are you going to eventually upgrade the turbo? If so why not at least clean up the runners and factory cast on the intake. Alot can be done in those runners without changing the intake port timing. Also you might want to look into the exhaust port timing. Do you want to have your turbo spool faster? Then you might want to look into changing port timing somewhat.
All in all it can't hurt to get in there and smooth out some of the sharp angles and do some cleaning and polishing.
Good luck.

BTW nice rebuild kit
I have ALWAYS been happy with the Atkins family.
i know i cant get those numbers on the stock turbo/manifold. ill only keep those for break-in and initial tuning. i will be upgrading to t4 shortly after break in. i guess my question is, can i make 375 rwhp with stock ports efficiently or would i be better off to port it now and not have to worry later?

btw, i love atkins too
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 10:49 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by highnitro12187
i know i cant get those numbers on the stock turbo/manifold. ill only keep those for break-in and initial tuning. i will be upgrading to t4 shortly after break in. i guess my question is, can i make 375 rwhp with stock ports efficiently or would i be better off to port it now and not have to worry later?

btw, i love atkins too
Port it... or buy my ported irons
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Bearzah
Port it... or buy my ported irons
ive been tempted, lol. but a template is cheaper
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by highnitro12187
ive been tempted, lol. but a template is cheaper
I suppose... good luck
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:22 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by highnitro12187
i know i cant get those numbers on the stock turbo/manifold. ill only keep those for break-in and initial tuning. i will be upgrading to t4 shortly after break in. i guess my question is, can i make 375 rwhp with stock ports efficiently or would i be better off to port it now and not have to worry later?

btw, i love atkins too
With the right set up and tune, you should be able to get 375-400 all day long on stock ports. If you search this you will find it has been done over and over again.
Good luck.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #45  
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this weekend i got alot done.

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i feel pretty damn productive now its time to buy a flywheel and gls-se font cover so i can set the endplay.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #46  
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Looks Great!
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:49 PM
  #47  
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Thank you!
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 10:37 PM
  #48  
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time for another update..........

got an fd flywheel which ive dropped off to be resurfaced.

installed my front stack, set the end play, and installed the front cover. took apart and cleaned my s4 turbo omp

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cleaned up my stock turbo

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bought my fd intake manifold and throttle body, just could resist porting out the s5 lim and stretching a few bolt holes in the uim. still gunna pull and the paint the intake manifolds. havent decide what color yet.

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and how it set when i left the shop tonight. gsl-se oil pan is painted & installed.

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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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what did you do to get the housings and front cover so damn clean? Was it really just simple green and some scotch pads?

Nice build so far... I am doing the same. Have all the parts just haven't started.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 12:12 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 82FanTC
what did you do to get the housings and front cover so damn clean? Was it really just simple green and some scotch pads?

Nice build so far... I am doing the same. Have all the parts just haven't started.
I used a wire wheel in an electric drill and painted with aluminum color high temp paint (i prefer duplicolor).

Thank you, good luck with yours.
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