So the pump runs only when key is in "start" position? And disengages when back to run/ignition?

 

Pump only primes when key it switched to on... Does not run while cranking or when engine is running...

 

Well I haven't yet done the full install of my Haltech F9 yet (waiting on injector plugs), but have read through several times and its my understanding that the Haltech takes over fuel pump control.

Have you checked through the settings in the Haltech software to see what options it has?

 

Not trying to be a dick but I know the ecu controls the pump... It's not sending a ground signal while cranking/running to the fuel pump relay... That I know... Can't figure out why tho.., settings seem to be right because it worked fine at one point,...

 

*shrugs* just trying to help. Hard for me to know what you have and haven't tried.

 

I'd just wire a switch to the control side of the relay for now, at least it'll run until you figure out the issue with the ecu. Any chance you're hooked into the wrong wire on the haltech? or you could tap it into another wire that is sending the signal you want?

 

Is it worth checking the integrity of the +12v supply to the coil on the relay using a decent known grounding point? The -0v might be good from the Haltech but not a lot of cop if the + side has gone to ****.

Plus, maybe worth checking the resistance of your ground path via the Haltech - maybe it worked at first as it was fresh but has now gone high resistance over time.

 

For I have the relay jumped to ground.. Going to do a switch to ground... I will double check all my wiring but like I think I said its all new... Soldered... Heatshrunk etc... Drove the car from shop to home 75 or so miles....

 

 

Yeah worth a check, you never know for sure and it always ends up being something daft.

 

Honestly sounds like a software issue to me. Were you adjusting any settings around the time the behavior changed?

 

Not that I know of...

 

This is an inspiring project thread! I'm sitting here glued to the computer and waiting to find out how you rectify the fuel pump issue!

 

I may be inclined to take it back to the shop that built it and say wtf. I mean you drove it home and it worked a champ, so what gives??

 

I built it... It started at home... No shop doing my work...

 

Thanks... I'm just going to run a wire from ground to a switch inside to the relay and leave it switched on... This way if I need to do key on tests etc i can turn the fuel off.. I have driven it 200 miles with a gator clip from batt ground to a wire in the relay.. Seems to work fine...

 

Looks sweet, love this build

 

Snapped front u joint.... First attempt at a burnout.... Thinking I'm going to take the whole thing to a driveshaft shop and have them make me one with my yoke and flange and hopefully stronger u joints... Funny thing is the u joint has less than 300 miles on it... Got it from Rockford... They are so tiny still..

Anyone know if larger flanges can be welded onto the yoke and rear flange with good results?

 

Going to get front yoke and rear flange from mazdatrix and have custom shaft made...

 

Here's what I been doing in my spare time... Potentiometer was broken and very expensive... Replaced the transistor in it.. Two bucks at RadioShack... Bada bing bada boom... It worked. I shocked myself... Also adding a switch to ground for my fuel pump trigger....

 

Driveshaft... Rockford u joint...

 

Selling red car less motor/trans/most interior for 200 plus stock ls1 manifolds from gto for my 6.0 k10 swap project... That should pay for most of my new shaft...

 

scary the u joint broke so easy.
I could snap a picture of my drive shaft for you if you would like a reference for the size

 

Appreciate it but I already ordered the mazdatrix/powertrain industries yoke/flange ... Hope it holds...

 

Oh damn! That's crappy!! I know he said they were fighting...