OK so the table that I posted is whats called a Volumetric Efficiency or "VE" table. so the numbers are represented in terms of how much % of the injector's "duty cycle" they are open. 0% is closed obviously, and 100% is full duty cycle, meaning the injectors are at full capacity. The Haltech I believe will be using injector timing, which is the actual duration of time the injector stays open, measured in milliseconds, so actually that graph may not be of much help.

I'm guessing the E6k probably uses similar software to what I was using on the F9. How the staging worked on those bar graphs was that when you set staged injection, there would be a split in the bar graphs, a ramp on the left and a ramp on the right with a line half way through the screen. What happens is that the left side is the primary injectors, and the right side is BOTH injectors. So at the split point, you'd actually decrease the injector timing, because now you have two sets of injectors firing at that timing.

PIC FOR EXAMPLE ONLY - not actual turbo rotary timings


I tried playing around with it, and got incredibly confused - even with 4 matching injectors. Staging on that unit might be better left to someone with Haltech tuning experience, as I dont really have much more info than that.

Hope this helps clarify if nothing else!

 

Was out tuning a bit more, or attempting to, and after a decent pull under boost I got an odd vibration.. It increases with revs around 3-4k gets really noticeable... I parked it let it sit, did compression test =good. Spark on all plugs. Checked the clutch through bottom inspection cover and it looks fine from what's visible. I put back together and started it... Ran fine... So I took it for a test drive... About a mile down the road it started to make the vibration again.. Almost as if it got worse as it warmed up. I'm going to try to repeat the results...

 

It does not matter if the car is rolling or not so it's something engine/ transmission... Not driveline... And I have no coolant in oil, or oil in coolant.. Doesn't overheat. What should my oil pressure be at idle? According up stock gauge it's around 20-30. When revved it goes up to 80-90

 

Repeated symptoms... First I double checked compression ( used non rotary gauge held relief open.., even steady pulses front and rear all 6 chambers... Also audibly the "puffs" all sound the same.. No noises rattles or clunks while cranking.. Oil was thin and smelled a bit like fuel.. Changed it for fresh 20w50.. Made sure I had good amount of premix in my fuel.. Restarted it... Sounded good idled fine.. Once it started to get warmed up vibration and clattering ensued.. Used stethoscope. Loudest on front cover and waterpump housing.. Next loudest on front housing then rear and trans was quite per say... Took belts off ( waterpump) same.. So I'm hoping something is loose on oil pump drive... And not. Internal engine... Oil pressure was fine now 30ish at idle and up when revs increase.. Going to drop pan and see if I can check oil pump drive without pulling motor... Wish me luck!

 

Yikes - def get that figured before pushing it any further. Don't want to pop all that hard work.

Have you been playing with timing at all lately? Could be pinging / detonation maybe?

And good luck

 

Didn't change any timing... And I thought about that but it's a clatter of some sort

 

I guess it could be on second thought. But if so if HORRIBLE and not sure why it just started it's got RA seals. Maybe one warped??? Not sure what that acts like....

 

Is this e shaft bearings?? Looks like copper not magnetic

 

Looks like front stationary gear bearing filings from imporoper end play.

 

Rotor bearings. Is what if meant...

 

I did not rebuild the motor. I did set the end play however to mazdatrix spec

 

 

Dude that sucks. If it makes you feel any better, my oil seals blew just weeks after finally getting her back on the road after 6 months in the garage for ecu/wire tuck

 

Thanks but I feel bad for you as well!! I'm not getting too bummed.. Just time for rebuild and then I know what kinda rebuild I've got...

 

That's the way to see it for sure - now we know for a fact what the build is like

 

Right! I got to get it apart first to see what's junk and what's good but now I'm wondering if I should do s5 rear iron and maybe stud kit or something.. Any thoughts/ opinions are welcome...

 

is your rear iron cracked? s4 currently?

 

S4 rear iron. Not cracked..

 

Man you got lucky. Glad it worked out in the end.

 

Should say I dont believe it's cracked

 

Is it worth going to s5? For 4-500 whp? Is studding the motor necessary?

 

Karack isn't really on the forum anymore and I don't know the answer to those questions, but I can say the common S4 rear iron usually can crack at 400. The S5 with the rib at the pedestal is able to handle a bit more, but I'd say 400 might be its safe maximum. Again no experience to answer those questions but we can assume studding will let the engine handle maybe 500. Karack is the guy to ask, but he's gone now so perhaps lots of forum searches are your best bet.

Now I'm going to ask you a question. Why does a 1st gen need 400 to 500HP? I think you'd be happy at 300 to 350. It's also safer. Also, the E6K is known to blow engines due to poor ignition control. j9fd3s will hopefully see this and offer some more advice.

 

my thoughts, unsolicited as they might be, are if you can stud the engine, then do it - regardless of generation/series.

as i understand it (through research, not personal experience) the S5 housings generally WILL get you past 400 reliably, as compared to the S4 housings. that said, i don't know where their general limit is and i've also seen a handful of them crack the front housings in the 400 range. i don't know how common or uncommon that is.

here's Karack's build thread from a while back.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...think-1048565/

another person that you might try to chat about this with is Blue TII.

 

Why 500rwhp... Because I can.. I want this car to be absolutely terrifying to every single v8, loving closed minded, ignorant, ricer hater that rides in it.. I have already gained the respect of my American muscle friends.. A few of them even have gotten Japanese turbo cars for DDs... I want it to be insane, and I want to absolutely WAX every single camaro, mustang, corvette, or muscle car that it goes against and leave their owners either pissed that their 40-80k car just got beat, or scratching their heads and realizing that there are other ways to go fast...
8 PSI untuned walked away from a 700-1000cc rocket.. I'm sure 25 psi would be much neater

 

Great answer Z! Do it because you can! Do it because you want a car that will leave V8 owners and Mustang boys confused and crying when all they can see are your taillights! Do it because 2 rotors in an engine the size of a beer keg, represent one of the most groundbreaking and unique automotive inventions the world has ever seen! Do it for all the rotary enthusiasts out there who love the brap brap brap!