smart idea to clean the diff and paint it, make everything look clean. nice RX

 

looks great brother!

 

Thanks... Chris Ludwig really helped me a lot.. My ecu was in wrong spark mode... Now im getting iat bung put onto carb hat... Next time im home im going to see if I can get it to idle at least

 

Got it running!!!!

 

Another video running....

 

The issue im having now is that it curently will prime the fuel when the key it first turned on for a couple seconds but the the fuel pump will not stay running. The only way i can get it to stay on and running is if i run a jumper wire to the switched ground signal side of the relay directly to ground. This is the ground signal that the ECU (E6K) provides to turn on the fuel pump. Any Ideas why it might be doing this?

Next i need to set the timing.... i cant really get it to idle low enough yet to set the timing... and for some reason with the timing lock on the timing marks will be in one spot for a brief while then randomly jump about 20 degrees... and the engine revs increase. not sure what that is either..

also the tacho out does not seem to work for the 85 12a stock tach.. not yet anyways...

 

Anyone got any ideas? I need some help...

 

Congrats! I love the "WAAHHOOOO" at the end of the video
strange it will jump around 20 degreees? You are using the stock FC pulley? iirc you should set it to 5 degrees & verify it using the front rotor leading plug. I was having the toughest time getting the idle to be at 1,000rpm, then I realised the timing was slightly off. I think the idle will do its self a favor once the timing issue is resolved

 

The tach runs off the trailing ignitor. I accidentally cracked a wire when I was playing around with wire tuck ideas and killed my tach and trailing ignition. Re-hooked up the wire and magically my tach is back

If thats what it is, it could be a two-birds one-stone sorta deal here!

 

Thanks! I have a RB dual Sheave pulley timing marks are 20 BTDC 10 BTDC 0 10 ATDC.. trying to set my base timing on the third mark from the right when looking directly at the front of the engine... so i set it at 0 in Haltech and tried to go from there... i think i may have a bum timing light.... 30 dollar actron one from autozone...

 

I no longer have ignitors. I am running an e6k with smart coils... trying to use the aux out on the ecu to run the stock 1g tacho. from what Chris Ludwig is telling me i might be able to get it to work by wiring in a resistor to 12v into the tacho circuit...

 

Ah - right that makes sense (actually goes back and reads prior posts).

I'm preparing an F9 install - this uses the same sort of fuel management only, minus ignition control. I'll be using the stock -SE dizzy for now until the rest of the EFI swap is done, then focusing in on upgrades.

I've always wondered where those computers get the tach/rpm signal - crank angle sensor i assume.

 

yeah from the CAS

 

Boost plumbing complete... Need to put some beads on pipes with homemade bead roller and clamp it all up... Still can't get fuel pump to stay on while cranking/ running... One coil is junk.... Dang it all... Think I fouled my plugs too.. Who's running what plugs?

 

Are you able to start it? -or just assuming it wont start because the fuel pump stops while cranking?

very nice build by the way!

 

Yes I can start it if I run a direct ground jumper to the fuel pump relay.. Otherwise it won't run ... I had it running before... I think something happened to cause the ecu to not run the pump but can't figure out what...

 

Anyone run into this issue w an old battery... Got an optima red top that's about 6-7 yes old.... Had an issue with the car not charging a year ago... After it sat all winter... Finally after a trickle charge for 2 days the car charged fine...,

 

Thread three different batteries.. All three same issue.. So that's not it...

 

Ok I think Might have figured something out... I have my stock fb wire connected to the bottom (L) terminal on my fd alternator... Nothing is connected to the top (S) terminal... According to a diagram I found online for s6 alternator the L should go to gauge and S should go to batt power, or maybe key power... Does this mean my alt wasn't charging correctly? I thought my volt meter said it was charging but then again I did have my battery charger on most of the time... Anyone think this could be the root of my problem?

 

I frikkin love the dedication here, cant wait for more vids, subscribed! Keep up the good work cant wait to see this thing with ECU in proper order and a tune!
Also really cool how your friends / fam seem to rally around in tough times.

 

So I've been researching the later-model alternator swap into FB - and you have to leave one wire disconnected. The later-model alternators read the difference between constant voltage and current usage.

So if current usage "drops" to zero - it will try to ramp up the alternator output to compensate. However the engine isnt running so its just drawing juice to try to generate juice - drains the battery over the process of a night or two.

 

Thanks guys! Yeah my friends/fam are great! Turns out it only charges the way I had it... The fuel pump issue was just my CAS off a tooth... Apparently the ecu didn't think the car was running/cranking. So it shut off the fuel pump... Almost there.......

 

Orilleys auto parts or whatever it is named in your area should be able to bench test the alternator for you and tell you what is working and what isn't. I know mine failed the "lamp on" test which I'm guessing is the wire which shows the battery idiot light on the FD dash.
let us know if this is still acting up

 

Alternator is fine.. I hooked it up correctly.. Tried the other way.. No chargie.. The lower terminal only works fine 14.6v or something.. Still no fuel pump other than key on prime though... But I have rpm.... Bout to just run a ground from relay to switch in cockpit connected to ground...

 

Btw I work at autozone so I could test it but its pretty much brand new...