were getting closer... this is where i started when I came back from Iraq... I Had alot of parts waiting for me when I got back.... I installed the Re-Speed front and rear 5 bolt conversion and Turbo II brake kit... I had to get a different rearend again.. this is the 3 bolt flange with disc brakes... also i got moser axles from respeed and ground conrtol coilovers up front to help with handling and wheel cearance.. this also required some wheel spacers front and rear...

 

heres some more of it with the calipers... just fitting them... then whith the new wheels on

 

As you can see i got drilled and slotted rotors as well... here is some pics of the welding on the mount for the new coilover front springs...sorry the pics are small they are from my phone. I sanded them down and painted them black since they were red...
you can see the wheel spacers... got them from fred goeske at wheeladapter.com hub centric great product! absolutely zero vibration... I used arp studs for a firebird/camaro 3inch long. used these front and rear and then cut them off to desired length.. these studs are so close to turbo 2 for the knurl and all that that they worked perfectly.. the fronts went right in since the turbo 2 hubs are aluminum... the rears took a bit more persuasion with the hardened moser axles.....

 

few more pictures of my wheels, tires, and brakes, and front suspension being finished.

 

Next i started on my fuel system to upgrade it and get it working properly before the turbo came along... I installed a Walbro 255lph inline fuel pump, and a mallory rising rate FPR, with Aeromotive gauge. I couldn't afford all Aeromotive stuff, I wish I could. With this setup with my stock return line of 1/4 inch and feed line of 5/16(i believe thats what they are stock or close to it) i could not return enough fuel and my lowest fuel pressure was around 6 psi.... my carb requires 3.5 so i was pouring fuel all over the place at idle. I had to increase both lines to 3/8. although many people said that this would not work and my fuel pressure regulator did not go that low, or that i need an even larger return line, It did work... it does work perfectly. I had to remove my fuel pick up tube. I cut off the old lines, drilled the holes out and welded in new 3/8 lines after i bent them to match the old ones. to my surprise this worked very well as well. then i ran all new 3/8 hard lines.... Sorry i don't have pics of the fuel pump mounted under the vehicle.... if someone wants to see i can get some in the future........ fuel system complete...

the whole time i was doing this i didn't realize that the car was only supported on three corners... wtf? it was about 1/4" off the front left jackstand...

 

after that I did my ignition system... I locked the dizzy in its normal resing position. i tacked welded the leading and trailing together, then i make a small bracket and connected it to the screw in the dist to hold it in place. Then i cut off the vacuum dash pots to make it look cleaner. I siliconed the holes shut from the dash pot rods... i also installed a new dizzy gear because mine was a bit worn. Actually my friend did that while I was doing something else. I have gotten help from my Dad, many friends, and even my mom all through this whole build process. Then my dad and buddy made two mounting plates for my dual MSD 6al boxes. Now I have a rev limiter with a 7900 rpm chip.. i might go back down to 7200 rpm.. not sure yet... anyways with the rev limiter it makes a real nice flame and backfire sound out the exhaust when held at the limiter...

 

Once the fuel and ignition were taken care of and working properly I started on the turbo setup... first i took everything off the engine and did a semi wire tuck and neatened up the wiring a bit!!

 

what HID kit did you go with? i have the same black dragon euro lights and i am looking for an HID kit that will work with the set up. thanks.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q36VXY

havent installed them yet but this should give high and low beam and nice crisp white light...

 

here is what some of the wiring looked like out of its loom.. re loomed it after eliminating a bunch of wires.. also shortened wires to the temp sensor and a few others that ran all the way around the front of the car then to the engine from the opposite side. I got rid of all of the wires that ran along the engine bay on the turbo side.. Now I dont have to worry about melting wires. Also at this point i wires in the MSD boxes. Used gold spade connectors and soldered them.. also heat shrinked them. Then I used colored zip ties to color code them in case i have to remove the boxes. This way i know which is leading and trailing pos and neg.... also the factory connections on the front by the headlights on both sides were replaced with 6 wire rectangle trailer connectors again incase something has to come out... soldered and heat shrink tubed them too. then it was all wire loomed and zip tied. This was a very very time consuming process..... but well worht it...

 

more wiring clean up... i wouldn't have done this but my friend made me and im glad he did!!
Turbo set in place to see fitment........

 

you can also see i installed a nice new aluminum radiator. this thing is awesome! Even with the Beehive oil cooler my coolant temp never even gets up to 1/3. it usually stays on the second indicator mark.... i did have to use the upper hose on the lower and then get a flex hose to make it hook up right....the angles of the outlets are totally different than stock


this picture is after about 45 mins of driving and pounding the **** out of my car... check out the temp!!

 

next i put on my turbo mani. stock gasket to block... no problems yet. steel gasket between turbine housing and mani.. same thing no problems yet...

I Got an Ebay oil feed and return line kit. I put a brass T in the oil pressure seding unit hole and ran the oil feed over to the trubo. the reducer was in the CHRA of the turbo from Turblown. make sure you have this or you get too much oil in the turbo and smoke.. For the return line i ran two brass 45 degree elbows from ACE hardware with brass hose barbs... I removed the front cover and drilled and tapped it for the pipe thread on the elbow.. I used thread tape on both to keep from leaking.. should probably used silicone instead...

For the cooling feed and return lines i tapped into the back of the water pump and put a brass t in there to feed the turbo and returned it back into the heater hose and used a pecks tubing T also from Ace Hardware. I got the 90 degree banjo fittings from turbofittings.com.
My mazdatrix EGT probes ( i think they are crap.. made to install with a hose clamp) which i was told i could not weld, I welded into my EGT plugs. I first removed the plugs from the EGT bungs on each runner of my mani, drilled them out slightly larger than the probes, put the probes through and welded them on the topside. These work perfectly.. I have the Mazdatrix Duel EGT gauge.. my buddy mounted it in my clock hole with a little sanding of the hole once the clock was removed...i then wrapped the turbine and downpipe with some thermal wrap blanket that i got from Rotaryshack back in the day. It is starting to flake off....

 

I got a used HKS SSQV BOV (50mm) from a forum member with the flange and welded it onto the boost tube as you can see... Its not that pretty of a weld but tis fucntional.... I got an ebay 2.5 in intake piping kit for about 85 bucks and an ebay intercooler from an american maker with a great rating. I got one with inlet and outlet on opposite sides and both at the bottom. I then had to cut holes in the rad supports and then used black door trim to make them look nice... I also had to modify my battery tray and used a universal mount kit from work.. AutoZone....

I then put in my Optima (34R i believe) and figured out what angles i needed for my boost tubes...
i also hooked up the tIAL 44mm wastegate from Turblown.

 

 

sweet car

 

btw these vehicles have a great tool tray up front...

 

I dont have pictures for this but I installed an AEM EUGO wideband controller and gauge and an AEM truboost gauge /controller. these two are in a 2 gauge pillar pod specifically for the first gen... it replaces the original piece but it doesn't fit 100% i found it on the internet somewhere...

I also made my own 3.5" SS exhaust. I had to use tri mix gas 90 helium - 7.5 argon-2.5 co2. I got the tubing bends from columbia river mandrel bending and straingt piece from jegs. also got some v band clamp off the net... those are expensive and the oned i got dont have a lip to help sealing and alignment.. they still work pretty well. I used a borla underneath Oval straight through and a round magnaflow out back.. It sounds way better than i ever expected... I ran this setup all last summer.

My dad brought it up to La Crosse from my home in Richland Center (I live in La Crosse now) on the trailer in case something broke... I took it to the street drags up here... 1/8th mile...

There was only a turbo civic and second gen supra turbo in my class... I won pretty handily... I also entered the open class but i had no chance against all out drag cars that arent street legal...

 

trophy

 

Thanks!

 

thats it for tonight.... well this morning.... hope you are liking... im getting really close to where it sit currently....

 

Good Job!!!

 

thanks man

 

After last summer as it was getting late in the season I took my buddy out for a ride. I got out and let him get in to drive it. It would barely run and sounded like a really bad miss... We limped it home... Checked the compression and it was way low... took off my exhaust mani and say a broken apex seal This was one week before our planned date to go to Great Lakes Dragaway. That would have been the first time at a 1/4 mile track with this car for me. So we pulled the motor and busted *** to get the stock, non street ported motor back in the car with the turbo set up.. It was noticeably slower but i still wanted to see what she would run for the end of the summer before i put it back into the garage for winter repairs/upgrades. We got rained out! so I still don't know the 1/4 mile time. Hopefully this summer will work out better.

 

I forgot to say how I made my "Boost box" carb hat. I used aluminum plate and welded up a rectangular box. Marked out and cut holes in the box for the velocity stacks. then i took the velocity stacks and welded them to the box. also welded a curved piece of aluminum to the side. This is all Incorrect and is something i will be redesigning this spring. From what other members have told me it needs to be 130% of combustion chamber volume and the inlet must enter at a 90 degree angle so the carb still is effectively sucking the pressurized air in and not getting air forced through it. The way i had it was ipossible to tune correctly becuse i was lean unless i ran way too big of jets that let to very rich mixtures at speeds other than WOT.