It's a Joe's one from Jegs or Summit

 

Noticed a burned out blinker. Replaced the bulb and no joy.
I noticed the amber plastic was also melted. Not sure when that happened or what bulb was being used by the PO.

 

Custom Hood struts installed.


Custom Intake I made. The Pipe I saw used in the U.K. It was expensive for just a used pipe. I will remove the coating from the letters and polish them. Just not right now.

 

I realized yesterday my wipers were not working. I had removed the wiper motor while cleaning around engine bay. Now it doesn't work. Honestly I don't know if it ever worked. I don't think it's been driven A lot in the rain.
So I put Rain-X on the windshield and removed the wipers for now. They were parked awkwardly high so they are off the car.

 

This was the mock up, I measured the angle I needed with a Protractor and found a coupler. It also had to be a reducer from 4" to 3.5" it ended up being an odd angle. Picked up the 28 degree coupler/reducer you see above.

 

Had the same burn. It's the bulb. I put in LEDs, no issue

 

I had a bulb in stock already so I use it. I will however look at LED's in the future to replace the bulbs.

Btw the SakeBomb Headlights and the Ohlins coilovers are turning out to be my favorite upgrades as far as the effect on the driving experience.

SakeBomb headlights are a huge upgrade. These are an absolute must and update the lighting to what a modern high end car would have. Changes driving the 7 at night. It's actually not a nail biting event.

 

Right on. I retrofitted my own projectors 10 years ago. They were awesome. But at $1600 for the sake bomb in Canadian dollars, not so awesome.

I hope ur not using the same bulb cuz the same will happen. I think my LEDs were 8-12 bucks or so. Car engine bay is stellar my man

 

Thanks for the comments on the engine bay. It's taken a lot of work. I did replace it with a regular bulb but haven't replaced the plastic amber cover, so if it burns some more I can replace it. Btw I ordered a lot of new hardware. Some stock and some titanium aftermarket. I wanted to speak to the stock hardware, particularly the screws. They are JIS; Japanese Industrial standard. I've heard JIS before but never understood exactly what it meant.

So JIS screws look like Philips heads. But they aren't and when you use a Phillips screwdriver on one (especially if it's tight or rusted) you immediately proceed to destroy it. And if you want to ever reuse those screws you buy new ones or mangle them worse until you are drilling them out.

I picked up a set of JIS screwdrivers. A company named Vessel is the basic tool manufacturer in Japan. You can probably buy higher end versions of JIS but I just needed a craftsman level and not a Snap-On level tool for these screws.
Picked mine up on Amazon.
Got a set of 3. They shipped seperatly. Here is the #2 size. I also have the #1 and the #3 on the way.

 

I approve of deleting the windshield wipers and arms, but you already knew that

Digging the HKS RS pipe, pretty fortuitous that it has the proper bends that you need

 

Well it wasn't exactly the right bend. It's why I ended up with the 28 degree reducer off the turbo. But it was def a find. I've been looking for it for a while actually and I knew what I wanted. That stupid little pipe cost me about $128 shipped from the U.K.

Someone found thier sucker. I had to have it.

Meanwhile I got my new gauge pod and my new Project Kic lug nuts. Same ones I have now without the rust.
I have a Defi Boost gauge on the way.


Rest of my JIS screwdriver set arrived.

 

Defi boost gauge arrived. Will be nice to have a back kit gauge. Will also be nice to get down to 1 gauge on the A pillar. May install tonight. My wife's family arriving today so may be difficult to get garage time. Have some critical wiring that needs to be done for a car show Sunday. May be up late the next couple nights.

 

Nice, I got the same one I need to install. Are you going to tap the fuse box? I have a center speaker pod, but might copy you since the A pillar is easier to run the wires for and easier to see for a boost gauge. Will be interested to see how it turns out for you.

 

I have the same lug nuts and same rust issue

 

Once you install the long extended ARP studs then you won't have the issue anymore. It's only when you run the long opened ended lug nuts with stock studs does this happen. If you have stock studs just stick with a closed end lug nut like the Mcgards.

 

I have my wideband on that switched circuit above the fuse panel. Because the gauge is back-lit I may tap it into the light for the ashtray in the center console. I want to be able to dim it with the rest of the gauges and I believe that ashtray light is also on the dimmer.

 

What, no Ti lugs ??????

 

Ti studs and Ti lugs would be AmAzEbAlLz!

 

You know damn well I was shopping Ti lugs.
I didn't find any with free floating 60 degree conical seat.

TomU
Sell me that black drivers side door panel for a fair price. I need it.

 

JDM Power House Amuse Titanium Lug Nuts M12x1.5

Y u need floating seat?

 

So the lugs don't eat the wheel a little each time you put the lugs on. The floating seat just makes contact and won't spin against the wheel as you tighten the lug nuts.

 

Ended up shooting a Supra event today. Luckily 1CLEANCYM also has a Supra. He showed up and won 1 or 2 trophies given out.
How bout dat?
So he left his CYM at home we still took a group photo at the end of the Supra meet. I think it turned out great. Next one we will shoot all 3 CYM's together.

 

Some other shots of the event I took today. My RX-7 was in a featured Japanese car section with some other notable Japanese cars like the R32 Skyline and 280Z etc.
North East Supra Event 2017 by Mik3ymomo | Photobucket

 

 

Pics came out fantastic, wish I could've been there

Oh, digging the new signature too. Mauru droppin' wisdom like flapjacks