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Make sure your final torque on all the arms and bushings is done with the car on its own weight. Don't want to crank it all down with the car in the air.
Make sure your final torque on all the arms and bushings is done with the car on its own weight. Don't want to crank it all down with the car in the air.
Absolutely!!!!
Thats what had me wondering because the only fixed bushing is where the lower control arm bolts into the subframe at the alignment bolt.
Everything else has a bushing that rotates - not torn - but not fixed. So even if its all the way tight on the metal it still can move up and down. I dont know if they are design revisions but the rear upper control arm has no fixed bushings.
Everything will be taken care of during alignments of course.
I've been enjoying the heck out of this thread! Love the pictures and documentation.
Long term you may want to track down a stock bolt to replace the one that broke. The hardware store bolt is black oxide coated, they don't do well exposed to the elements, it will get rusty and crappy pretty quick. But it will get the project moving along.
I've been enjoying the heck out of this thread! Love the pictures and documentation.
Long term you may want to track down a stock bolt to replace the one that broke. The hardware store bolt is black oxide coated, they don't do well exposed to the elements, it will get rusty and crappy pretty quick. But it will get the project moving along.
Dale
Dale,
Thank you for the comment.
I threw them all away due to possible over-stress so I'll need 4. The store ones rated at 12.9 - can I get them coated?
I'll start looking for stock one - good luck to me...lol
XanderCage - I finally got to the leather repair kit - PMD you.
I have been wanting to try and patch this tear in my seat and Im super happy with the results. The product is amazing quality and you can see with a more experienced person the repair will come out much better.
Basically you scuff the area, wipe it with alcohol, stuff the fabric underneath, apply the glue (which cures hella fast!!!) and then paint it to your color. The paint is like a rubber paint so you can fill it, let it dry then put a top coat.
Its really durable and better then any other kit I have used in the past. Some angles the repair looks good and others it looks like a hot mess - but its a million times better then a gaping hole in my seat !!!
Enjoy the pics.
Last edited by rotaryextreme; 04-24-20 at 08:43 PM.
Nice! I know no upholstery product can work miracles, but like you said it obviously looks waaaay better than before.
I'm sold, I'll have to pick up a kit. Thanks for the detailed writeup, and very nice job as usual!
I don't know why but I'm also pretty tickled by their slogan "Trust the Bish" haha.
Nice! I know no upholstery product can work miracles, but like you said it obviously looks waaaay better than before.
I'm sold, I'll have to pick up a kit. Thanks for the detailed writeup, and very nice job as usual!
I don't know why but I'm also pretty tickled by their slogan "Trust the Bish" haha.
Thanks!!!
Yeah it could have been way better. Im going to mess with it some more. Probably shave down the bish at the edge where it pops up like a peanut....then Ill fill it with some more rubber paint....lol
Second stab at the seat repair - Im going to leave it alone because Im at my limit as far as leather repair skills go.
I used a bent razor blade and shaved down the high spots. Then I tried to make a dam to fill the low spots which failed miserably. I shook the bottle like the label says and when I tried to pour the sealer it was full of bubbles - waited 4 hours for them to go away because I didnt want swiss cheese fill.
I bought a nice xacto set and when I tried to use it ...it just pulled the fill instead of cutting it. What the heck is this stuff made of. I had to use my electrical wire cutters to cut the high spots off. Then I filled the canyon like gaps on the sides that showed up after me pulling it all over the place testing out out strong the repair was. - its solid. After all was cured I cut the high spots again and re-painted it with the rubber paint. Its light black at first and when it drys its more shinny.
For the seat stuff, you probably wanted to stir and not shake it. Shaking gets a lot of air bubbles (obviously) introduced. The super hardcore method is to them put the stuff in a vacuum chamber to pull out all the air, that's common when working with some epoxy resins.
Still the seats look a MILLION times better than they did.
For the seat stuff, you probably wanted to stir and not shake it. Shaking gets a lot of air bubbles (obviously) introduced. The super hardcore method is to them put the stuff in a vacuum chamber to pull out all the air, that's common when working with some epoxy resins.
Still the seats look a MILLION times better than they did.
Dale
Thanks Dale!
I actually work with vacuum chambers at work - big ones. -
I FINALLY got the fuel fittings that I have been wanting for the sec fuel rail. I ordered a 6AN F to F 150 degree and 120 degree.
My initial thought of 150 degree was correct. The 120 degree ended up pointing the barb straight down at the turbo cross over oil/water line.
As usual I test fit everything then lined up the hose beside it and cut it to length. I put a little grease on the inside of the hose with my little aluminum rod tool and it slide on to the barbs just fine. I put the clamps over the hose and then pushed the hose onto the 150 degree barb first, then i pushed the hose onto the pri rail and last I mated the fitting to the sec fuel rail. I got some nice worm clamps from the hardware store that do not have any flat spots where it screws together. The best was to tighten these it to just do it until its snug. If you over tighten it you will see the rubber coming up throw the slots. I also re-positioned the the sec fuel injector so the connector is free from hitting the fuel line.
On the other side of the pri rail I just attached the reaming hose, I will cut it to length later once I know whats going on with it. I needed to install it so I can move forward with the individual solenoids and the modified solenoid rack and ignition coils.
I am storing the upper intake manifold on the engine - no where else to put it..lol
Sooooo - If you guys have been following my thread there is something that I had to live with and didn't have the funds to fix it. Well thanks to the stimulus check I was able to take care of that situation and the parts are in the mail - can wait for that future update !!!!
Fuel lines look great Ben! As always really appreciate the attention to detail and thorough documentation. Curious, is the electric air pump in the background of the last picture for the FD?
Fuel lines look great Ben! As always really appreciate the attention to detail and thorough documentation. Curious, is the electric air pump in the background of the last picture for the FD?
No, if you look closely there's a blow up doll beside it...jk
Its a cheap pos that can't even blow up a balloon for a party I actually should have thrown it away I don't know why I kept it.
Thank you again for the comments and support on my work I greatly appreciate it and it helps me to continue on.
I'd like to thank the government for the stimulus package - it helped my "business related demo car" get the items it needed.
So - I now have a free set of Stage 1 BNR drop into CHRA replacements with the upgraded 360 degree thrust bearing. They all came with the oil feed and water copper crush rings and the oil return gaskets - top notch !!!!!
Im sure the compressors are solid but whats more cool is the additional web at the base of the turbine blades to channel the exhaust more efficiently.
All I have to do now is take the twins back apart and reassemble - hopefully for the last time.
If you look at my Day 11 part 1, 2 and 3 you can see the pri turbo turbine exhaust side ate something when the motor blew. I didnt have the funds to take care of it so I was going to run it - but now we're all good !!!!!!!!!
I have been so busy getting my 1996 G20T ready for smog I have had no time for anything else. I had to fix so many things and some of it was ridiculous - for example I got flagged for having an AFR gauge tapped into the down pipe before the cat - flagged as tampered O2 sensor. Another one was the magna flow cat has the rear O2 bung on the opposite side of the laser numbers on the cat. the smog guy said i had to install the cat with the number down which forced me to make an extension for the rear O2 sensor and also it faced the sensor down giving me about 4 inch clearance from the ground. My car looked like it had a little boner......Anyways everything is fixed. Passed smog, called the CARB hotline and they said the numbers on the cat just have to be visible so I flipped the cat got and got another rear O2 sensor that's not mutilated and called it a day. I know its not a 7 but Im gonna post pics anyways. The car has the infamous SR20DE, but this one is a high compression motor from Europe and has the nissan pulsar gti-r sodium filled exhaust valves in it. Its reall a cool daily. Now that this car is running I have to change the suspension, rear wheel hubs and install some rebuilt axles in my primary daily - my 2008 Mazda5 minivan. I love this thing - 265k miles and still going !!!!!! Ford engine though...lol
So for the RX7
The turbos are still sitting in the box waiting to be installed.
I got my Rotary Performance rear engine lift fitting, came with a cool bag too.
Today I cleaned the transmission. I sprayed it with engine gunk gel cleaner then scrubbed it and hosed it down. Then I got the good ole eagle one mag and wheel cleaner and sprayed it then immediately power washed it.
I covered the connectors with a bag and when all was done I took them back out to clean them and let them dry.
I already have a throw out bearing but now I will need to order the Input and output shaft seals.
04-20-20, 04:28 AM
