I would just delete the entire system, run 1.5 to 2 oz per gallon, and don't worry about not having enough lube on decel( no retuning on your end).

The amount of lubrication necessary is mostly based on load. There is no load on decel, and how much time is one really spending on decel anyhow? Chances of the OMP system mechanical parts failing is 10000x more of an issue than no lubrication on decel. I just had to do this exact job today for a customer who does not want to premix either( same exact issue as you Peter).

 

Lots of no-throttle engine braking on track. There's really no reason why this shouldn't work, there has to be an underlying reason.

 

Update, I'm trying out a couple things in the assumption that the problem is caused by oil flow. It's either that or boost which seems unlikely at 13-15 psi.

I drilled out the new style oil jets to be like the old style OE kind that came with the car, and lowered the settings to Renna's base map settings from what mine was previously set at (see comparison). Bear in mind I also have the Mikuni pump which flows more.

 

Additional note: The stalling issue is likely an indicator of bad nozzles. Normally, they are intended to suck a little air in vacuum conditions, and when the check valve breaks, it no longer flows in that direction—which would have the same effect as closing your bleed screw down.

So, early indicators are that, and more smoke at cold startup (because without the ability to suck air through the nozzle, it scavenges oil from the metering lines).


Doing this job twice makes me wish I had an aftermarket LIM with all four injectors on a single rail. They'd take less than an hour to swap, if you didn't need to remove the primary fuel rail to get to them.

If these blow, the next step will be to drill them out and plumb Dale Clark check viton valves on top of them.

 

I wouldn't recommend doing premix only on a road race car. Too much time spent in deccel with no oil getting to the apex seals and housings. Check valve on top sounds like a good idea.

 

Thanks Ihor, I agree.

The other thing you could do, theoretically, is just drill them out and block off the nipple. That's essentially what happens when it breaks... you could open the bleed screw, deal with smoke at startup, and ensure oil gets forced in under boost. It couldn't be any less livable than turning the decel fuel cut off.

 

An important mod for upcoming track date at VIR: Hood pins.

I didn't really want to do it, but safety dictated it. I wanted something that looked super clean and stealthy on the street, and decided on Quik Latch mini pins. These have a very clean push button release receptacle that goes in the hood, and then a pin with a ball on it that actually latches below the outside of the hood.

The install was both easy, and a bitch. The basic procedure is easy. Drill a 3/4" hole in your hood and bolt it all up. But, precision is paramount as they must line up perfectly, and the hood, pin, etc are at subtle angles/curves.

It might be ideal to pin someplace there wasn't already a hole in the chassis so you could drill the hood first and then line up the hood pin. But, i got a little luck and everything lined up.

They look pretty good and will give some piece of mind.

 

A friend of mine had these on a miata. Some turd at a car meet pushed one of the buttons and thought he closed it back, but the end result was that the hood flew up.

Just be sure to check them every session lol.

 

Yup, the stealth nature means it isn't obvious when not latched, but, the regular hood latch is still there as well.

 

link to buy those bitchin little things?

 

http://www.quik-latch.com

Mine are the minis, which are available with different flange sizes. They make actual full size and lockable hood pins which are much larger/thicker, but I thought these would do since there's still a factory latch.

You can also get them on amazon. Note also, I needed to order longer (4") pins, and cut them down to about 2.5". The latches come with 2".

P

 

Thanks. The part that the stock latch hooks to on my hood is worn so the hood shakes / lifts a bit at speed. Rather annoying and unsettling. I think this will help while still looking subtle. I have the traditional pins on my Spec Miata and wouldn't want that on a street car.

I'll probably wind up mounting them in the same location as you.

 

Those are the latch I'm looking to get for my RE N1 hood, did you have to adjust the stock latch for your CF hood to work? With the stock latch, my RE N1 hood sits about 1/8" lower than the bumper.

 

I had to adjust my stock latch quite a bit, but not because of the Quik Latches. It's because the Seibon hood doesn't fit very well.

You're lucky it sits lower. Mine sits higher and I had to drill the latch mounts to get it lower.

 

Yucks, ok good too know, thanks!

 

Those "hood pins" are slick!!!

Great find for when you are keeping your stock latch, want low profile and a little bit of safety factor.



And so many other uses possible @_@

 

Just back from three days at VIR. The bad news is, the oil nozzles blew immediately, and made a big mess after the first session. I put a big check valve in the line, and it blew a zip-tied line off in the next session and made more mess! I just don't get it.

But, i plumbed it to the (vented) oil filler neck, and pre-mixed about 12oz/10gallons of gas and went for it. Otherwise, the car was phenomenal. It's so set up now. Great power, the handling with the wing has really come together, and the stealthy hood pins work great. Ran 13psi, and water temps never got out of the 80's, and IATs never out of the 40's (typically about 48c).

I ran a 2:04.9 on old tires, and strapped on the new ones to get down to regular 2:04's even in light traffic. Quickest was a 2:04.3. I had a couple shots at 2:03's that were blown by traffic, or in the case of my best lap, I actually wasn't in gear coming out of Oak Tree. That was a three for sure.

Here's the quickest video'd lap, a 2:04.6, run in light traffic. To do's are, try and fix this oil injection issue, and start thinking about diff/trans cooling, We could smell the diff after runs, so I'll be cooking them if I don't get dedicated pumps/heat exchangers rocking.

 

The Porsche is Fritz... and I think if anything, he works like a rabbit for for me. He's so quick into corners, it pushes me to do the same. LED brake lights always flicker on video. I'm seeing about 155 indicated on the back straight.

 

A couple pics from the weekend. A cracked brake rotor ultimately ended the day. I have spares but didn't feel like swapping it for one more run.

 

LOL...that porsche was me

That's what the brake lights do on the 997.2 GT3s.

Pete and I always do some lead follow regardless of who is faster etc....

Pete, awesome lap time and just one more example of how FAST the FD is when setup and driven properly

 

My videos always look slow :-( I'm not sure why.

 

There were numerous GT3s, GT4s, corvettes etc.... I wouldn't be surprised if Pete's car was top 3 or 4 at the event. There was a nice 997 cup running 2.02s which was likely the fastest car there.

You are too damn smooth

 

Hoosiers?

 

Hoosiers.

I don't have a GReddy diff cover or an aftermarket trans pan. I'd doubt they do much by themselves, at least for very long. Might slow down the warm up a bit. Fritz has dedicated coolers/pumps, and I'll need the same. Those aftermarket covers will make it easier to plumb them though.

P

 

I've had two different greddy diff covers and both leaked and couldn't be sealed. Tried different bolts, retapped etc...etc... The drain bolt does not seal when the oil gets hot.

As Pete mentioned you need both diff and trans coolers added if you push the car hard on track. Like a lot of aftermarket parts the greddy diff cover is a JOKE!!!!!

PS usually if I take an FD to the track for the 1st time the stock diff cover will start leaking when the fluid heats up and I have to tighten the bolt but they do at least seal when the fluid is super hot. Once that fluid breaks down or gets too hot though you are ruining the bearings and it will start making a nasty whining sound.